Close



Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    501

    Default Motorcraft 2150 Carb: Ford vs Jeep version

    The Motorcraft 2150 2bbl carb on my 83 Mexican Mustang works, but is in pretty sad shape. Throttle is sluggish unless I PUNCH it. Nice, shiny rebuilt 2150s are selling for $199 on fleabay. That's a good price compared to what most of the local shops are charging. I'd like to pick one up and swap out the original and save it (I'm keeping all the original parts I take off it).

    This carb was standard equipment on a wide variety of Ford products, including trucks and large cars. The 2150 (and 2100) was also standard equipment on a lot of Jeeps of the period.

    None of the carbs listed right now are specifically for Mustang/5.0. Most have the fuel inlet on the carb top. Mine has that plugged, and the fuel line goes in the bung at the base of the carb. Mine is also equipped with the Aneroid altitude compensator, but I just want to install a regular 2150. Here are 3 that are currently listed:

    This one has the additional "side-facing" inlet on top:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MOTORCR...sories&vxp=mtr

    This one has the "front-facing" inlet on top:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MOTORCR...sories&vxp=mtr

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MOTORCR...sories&vxp=mtr

    This one actually looks like the CLOSEST FIT, even though it's for a Jeep--has the additional butterfly valve on top, and both TOP AND BOTTOM fuel inlets (except bottom inlet has a host nipple instead of fuel line fitting):
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MOTORCR...sories&vxp=mtr

    None of them mention any important details like what size the jets are.
    Note that the first two say they are for 351/400ci Ford engines, the other for 304/360ci Mopar engines.

    Does anyone know which of these are suitable for use on my 83 5.0 with points ignition? No guessing please! If need be, I can ask the seller(s). Thanks!

    Here's a photo of my original carb:
    Last edited by tcruise; 07-27-2012 at 05:19 AM. Reason: Correction
    1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0/4-spd
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 H.O.

  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tcruise View Post
    Most have the fuel inlet on the carb top
    It's not a fuel inlet but a gas evaporation system that works with the charcoal canister below passenger frame rail.

    I'd buy either
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MOTORCR...sories&vxp=mtr
    or
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MOTORCR...sories&vxp=mtr

    They have 1.21 venturi.
    webmaster Mustang Club de France (http://www.mustangclubdefrance.com)
    '79 Pace Car 5.0 (still rebuilding the engine)
    '78 Chrysler-Simca 1307 GLS - '82 Renault 5 GTL - MBK 51 Swing (50cc moped)
    '80 Capri 2.3 (sold ) - '79 Hatchback 2.3 (sold ) - '80 Notchback 3.3 (junk yard )

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Granite Falls, Wa
    Posts
    2,857

    Default

    Why don't you rebuild your 2150? The kits are cheap and they are a fairly simple carb.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    501

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TuxStang View Post
    It's not a fuel inlet but a gas evaporation system that works with the charcoal canister below passenger frame rail.
    So, I can plug the fitting on the carb top, and connect my fuel line to the threaded bung on bottom-left corner? Cool!

    Quote Originally Posted by TuxStang View Post
    Thanks! Glad somebody knows more about this than me!
    1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0/4-spd
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 H.O.

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    501

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mustangxtreme View Post
    Why don't you rebuild your 2150? The kits are cheap and they are a fairly simple carb.
    Good question. I've always rebuilt my carbs in the past and had good results.
    I was planning to rebuild this one, but my other two drivers are also having carb troubles. Sick of dealing with carbs. Trying to get my truck fixed up right now and just want to drive the Mustang.

    I'd rather just buy a good carb and get the car running right. It also needs the heater system removed/reconditioned and a heater core installed before wet weather sets in, not to mention SFCs, brake work and a trans rebuild or T-5 swap.
    1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0/4-spd
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 H.O.

  6. #6
    FEP Member 83glxdroptop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Southeast Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
    155

    Default

    Having never taken a carburetor apart previously, I was able to dissemble and correctly rebuild the 2150 on my motor (1983 3. the first time around. There can be very small differences between 2150 carbs according to what vehicle and what year they where installed. These are called "calibrations" and you should be aware that your particular calibration is stamped on a metal plate attached to the front left side of the carb, which I see in your picture. Use this to order the correct rebuild kit. They can be had for about $25 on Ebay. Total rebuild time, not including a few hours soak in carb cleaner shouldn't be more than 90 minutes. Try it it's not that hard. If you need more detailed info on the ins and outs of the 210 try reading up on the topic here. It covers the 2150 in detail http://grantorinosport.org/BubbaF250/carb/carb03.html I did mine and right away notice snappier acceleration, and this was before I rebuilt my engine. Good luck!

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tcruise View Post
    So, I can plug the fitting on the carb top, and connect my fuel line to the threaded bung on bottom-left corner? Cool!
    Yes, plug it unless you want/need all the emission stuff working as factory.
    webmaster Mustang Club de France (http://www.mustangclubdefrance.com)
    '79 Pace Car 5.0 (still rebuilding the engine)
    '78 Chrysler-Simca 1307 GLS - '82 Renault 5 GTL - MBK 51 Swing (50cc moped)
    '80 Capri 2.3 (sold ) - '79 Hatchback 2.3 (sold ) - '80 Notchback 3.3 (junk yard )

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    501

    Default

    Thanks guys! I've been around the block a few times on this car. Somebody pointed me to the rebuild page on grantorinosport awhile back (good how to). The tag on my carb says "E2FEEA". All the auto parts stores said "no match" for this number.

    This car was built in Mexico City for sale in Mexico. Ford of Mexico did not "follow the rules" when building Mustangs. Many parts on these cars are different from the U.S. models, making it a challenge to get the right parts and specifications.
    Here's a list of differences I've found so far:

    EXTERIOR:

    Body: All from Mercury Capri (nose, fenders and quarter panels, tail section, tail lights, "bubble back" rear hatch).

    Has 14-inch alloy wheels used on Ford Escort/EXP and Mercury LN7 instead of metric TRX wheels.

    Hood: The script on front of hood says "F O R D".

    Rear Hatch has "Mustang" badge on left corner and Ford Oval on right corner.

    Has "MEXICO" badges on both quarter panels.

    Windows: "Hecho en Mexico", etc. all in Spanish

    Seats: Halo-style headrests not removable?

    Heater box and vent are STEEL, not plastic.


    ENGINE:

    Mexican 302 V-8 (built in Mexico City), has heavier casting and "Hecho en Mexico" (or Ford Mexico?) on the block.

    Has points/condensor type ignition instead of Duraspark electronic ignition.

    Has the older "V" type belts and pulleys, instead of serpentine.

    Inline fuel filter on top of left frame rail (U.S.: Screws into carb inlet).

    Clutch: The clutch pedal does not have the auto-adjuster, and the cable has different ends on it.
    The clutch cable is probably carry-over from the Mustang II production.

    INTERIOR:

    No VIN tag on dash, just a build tag (in Spanish) on driver door pillar, and ID # has fewer digits (only 11).

    All tags are in Spanish.

    Speedometer has Kilometers on outer ring, MPH on inner (same as Canada models) instead of vice-versa.

    The "status panel" (next to digital clock) is in Spanish.

    Door panels have a chrome/metal horse emblem (2.5" L x 1.25" H) that is identical to the ones on the Mustang II.
    1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0/4-spd
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 H.O.

  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    501

    Default

    Forgot to say I already ordered a rebuilt carb. It was a judgement call on this one.
    This carb is very rusty and all the external parts need to be replaced. Carb rebuild kits don't come with any of these parts. By the time I get done finding and paying for these parts, it will cost about the same as for a rebuilt unit.
    1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0/4-spd
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 H.O.

  10. #10

    Default

    All the rebuilders do is bead blast those rusty parts... along with the castings as well.

    Do not give your original carb back to the parts store/rebuilder. Chances are you're going
    to end up wanting to rebuild and use it, even as rough as it is now.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '79 Mont StaWag, 5.0, 58K original miles ... '81 Futura Coupe, 3.3, 62K original miles ...
    '85 GT 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT CFI/AOD Vert ...
    '65 notch, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ... '68 Vert 307 4-speed...
    (And a 1-of-328 Blue 2003 Mercury Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune)

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    501

    Default

    Yes, I agree, and that's the plan, though if the new one works well, I'll probably never get around to rebuilding the original carb.

    Got the carb off ebay from "TOP SPEED", who is a Top-rated Seller with excellent feedback rating, no core charge/exchange. So, I have high hopes that this will be a premium rebuild, vs. the crap they sell at FLAPS.

    I'm keeping all original parts for this car because it's kind of special. There seem to be only a few Mexican Mustangs in the U.S. I'm not aware of any that have been imported through Customs and licensed here. I also have all the original dealer paperwork for it. Some of these were driven across the border, probably on a "day trip", can't be licensed here, so just sitting for years now. Mine may be the only one actually on the road.
    1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0/4-spd
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 H.O.

  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    501

    Default

    UPDATE: The rebuilt Motorcraft 2150 carburetor (for Ford truck application) finally arrived, and I'm lovin it! There were several differences from the original carb that required some minor mods to make it work on this car:

    1. Throttle lever has an extra part sticking out of the main lever that hits the valve cover. Solved by bending it back out of the way.
    2. An additional lever on the throttle (purpose unknown), very sloppy, but does not seem to interfere with operation, so left it.
    3. Had to plug 3 unused vacuum ports (this engine has an extra port in the thermostat elbow that acts as a "remote junction" for the vacuum advance), which is indirectly connected to a port on the REAR of the intake manifold for some reason).

    The old "throttle kicker" solenoid was starting to act up before I cleaned it up with wire brush and buffing wheel. Now it stays in the "out" position, and catches when I push it back. Solution: Disconnected the power lead.

    I still need to adjust the idle mixture, but the engine still runs tens times better than it did with the old carb, particularly the low-end throttle response. It pulls real strong from a dead stop now, yeah!!! Considering the advanced age of this car, I'm very impressed. It feels like I remember my 82 Capri RS 5.0 H.O. driving now (minus the positraction)!

    Can someone tell me where to connect a vacuum guage to test the draw on each bore separately for adjusting the mixture?
    There's one small unused port on the right-rear of the carb under the air horn, and another one on the left-rear (lower down) that the choke pulloff connects to. Are those the best places to hook up? Thanks!

    Here's a photo of the new carb on the car. BTW, the intake manifold has "ORDER DE IGNICION..." cast into the top:
    1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0/4-spd
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 H.O.

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Granite Falls, Wa
    Posts
    2,857

    Default

    You don't need to hook up a guage for each throttle bore. Just hook up to direct manifold vacuum and adjust each mixture screw until you have the highest reading. Of course both screws should be fairly close to the same adjustment.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  14. #14
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    501

    Default

    Cool. Thanks, Dave!
    1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0/4-spd
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 H.O.

  15. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tcruise View Post
    2. An additional lever on the throttle (purpose unknown), very sloppy, but does not seem to interfere with operation, so left it.
    It's the kickdown rod lever.
    webmaster Mustang Club de France (http://www.mustangclubdefrance.com)
    '79 Pace Car 5.0 (still rebuilding the engine)
    '78 Chrysler-Simca 1307 GLS - '82 Renault 5 GTL - MBK 51 Swing (50cc moped)
    '80 Capri 2.3 (sold ) - '79 Hatchback 2.3 (sold ) - '80 Notchback 3.3 (junk yard )

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •