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  1. #1

    Default Explorer motor interchangeability-ness's...........

    I know this might be repetitive, and i'm sure this info is out there but I have to go to work and have a lot of info I'm looking for... So if anyone can regurgatate some info to me I'd be greatful, otherwise; just tell me to use the search whenever I get the time!

    I've got a 86' mustang that has an 87 truck 5.0 in it (carb'd setup), and I'm looking to find out what year explorer 5.0 motors are best, or atleast what years I can most easily interchange (staying carb'd)...

    What is the best way to tell if the motor is in good condition without totally pulling it and wasting 8 hours of my time....?

    Will the timing chains+gears interchange?
    Will the timing cover/water pump be interchangeable?
    I'm assuming my motor (the 87 truck) has a 28oz flywheel w/ balancer, is that what I will need on the explorer motor?
    The motor mounts will be the same?
    The t5 bellhousing will bolt right up to the block?
    Will my 10.5" clutch/flywheel/pressure plate/clutch fork all work on this motor?
    Should I change lifters/rods (I know explorer motors aren't meant for high revving 6k rpms)?
    Are the camshafts different from h.o. cams to the explorer cams?
    Will there be a different firing order from what I have now or do I not have to worry?
    Will I need different oil pumps or something along those lines?
    All the front accessories should just bolt in place and even the belt will be the same length if I use all my exact accessories?
    I have an edelbrock performer RPM intake that I'd assume should just bolt on in place?
    My distributor is a GM HEI and the gear seems to have the pin broken off and the gear just slides on and off it, what would be my best option to do for that? (I'd assume that needs steel gear also...)
    I have "P" specific headers for gt40p, If I put these on non-p heads will there be interference somewhere?


    I'll be going to the junkyard after I get this info and start poking around after I get a better grasp on this...
    I'm sure I'll be adding more questions on later. I like to know exactly what's going on before I start a project.
    Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by fiveoh 86lx; 07-15-2012 at 07:57 PM.

  2. #2

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    Really no way, in a junkyard, to tell the condition of the internals.
    Most yards will give you a 30 day period to inspect it.

    The external long block is identical. Everything on your engine will bolt on. If you have "p" headers, that is the engine I would look for. The only thing I would change on it is valve springs. Maybe slide a bigger cam in it while your at it.

    Yes, you need a steel gear for the dizzy. That engine is a roller cam and the same firing order as the 87. All 302's are 50 oz. weight after like 1981 or somewhere close. It was when they switched from "302" to "5.0".

    You will either need your oil pan or buy a new double hump.

    Flywheel and all should bokt right on. Will need a pilot bearing since explorers werent manual trans.
    86 stang GT hatchback HX35 turbo project ( Gonna call it done....for now! no numbers yet ) now with a blown T5.

    **NEW** 00' F250 4X4 supercab short bed PSD!! Straight piped and on 35's. Hoping for a tuner soon!!

    02 mountaineer stock! Fiances' ride

  3. #3

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    isn't the water pump/timing cover different??

  4. #4
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    do a search on mods, maintenance and mechanical. Search "Explorer engine in a stang". Look for the thread called just that- about half way down the page. Good overview.
    Last edited by brianj; 07-15-2012 at 05:12 PM.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by kxt View Post
    isn't the water pump/timing cover different??
    It could be. I thought it was the same but could very well be wrong.
    86 stang GT hatchback HX35 turbo project ( Gonna call it done....for now! no numbers yet ) now with a blown T5.

    **NEW** 00' F250 4X4 supercab short bed PSD!! Straight piped and on 35's. Hoping for a tuner soon!!

    02 mountaineer stock! Fiances' ride

  6. #6
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    Use the timing cover from your old motor, and a fox water pump. I think you can use the explorer parts, but you have to use ALL the explorer parts- accessory bracket, etc. I used the timing cover from my '83 motor due to using a mechanical fuel pump, and all of my stock '83 parts bolted right up with no problem. Seems easier than making the explorer stuff work.
    Last edited by brianj; 07-15-2012 at 05:24 PM. Reason: mangled english
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  7. #7

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    That is what I was thinking. The long block is identical, just need to use the right covers and accessories.
    86 stang GT hatchback HX35 turbo project ( Gonna call it done....for now! no numbers yet ) now with a blown T5.

    **NEW** 00' F250 4X4 supercab short bed PSD!! Straight piped and on 35's. Hoping for a tuner soon!!

    02 mountaineer stock! Fiances' ride

  8. #8

    Default

    I found this online somewhere and saved it to my hard drive, I did not write it but it may help out. I am in the process of the exploder swap myself

    UPDATE: here is where the information is- http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...-motor.689429/

    Good luck

    explorer motor swap info

    Parts list
    - 1996-2001 Explorer Long Block(must include heads and intake)
    - 1986 through 1993 5.0 Mustang water pump
    - 1986 through 1993 5.0 Mustang timing chain cover
    - Felpro gasket kit for front seal, timing chain cover gasket, and water pump gasket part # TCS 45450
    - Stock HO valve springs
    - Stock HO or explorer rocker arms
    - reuse your stock mustang or explorer push rods
    - 86-95 HO 5.0 Cam (85-early 88 roller cams make the most power of the OEM roller cams)
    - 1986 through 1993 HO Oil Pump (Explorer and Mustang oil pumps are the same, although it’s highly recommended to use a new oil pump)
    - 1986 through 1993 HO Oil Pickup Tube Melling brand part number MEL-247S
    - 1986 through 1993 HO Oil Pan
    - 1986-1993 PCV rubber intake Grommet and Screen. NOTE: The explorer intakes do not come with the pcv screen inside the intake at the back, you must re-use your mustang one.
    - FRPP Oil Pan Gasket part number FMS-M-6710-A50 or use Felpro part number XXXXXX. Both are one piece and are rubber bonded on metal.
    - shorty headers that are GT40P compliant, for ceramic coated use Part Number FMS-M-9430-P51 (only if you're running a 1997-2001 Explorer engine with GT40P heads)
    - FRPP Exhaust Manifold Gaskets part number FMS-M-9448-B302
    - SFI approved Balancer, Powerbond makes a good inexpensive balancer part number PIO-872030. I wouldn't recommend reusing your stock balancer since it is of poor design, although it can be used if it's still in good condition.
    - ALL HO Mustang accessories (smog pump, a/c compressor, power steering pump, alternator, brackets and bolts)
    - EGR Spacer if you plan on keeping a functioning EGR setup(note that late 97-2001 intakes do not have EGR passages)
    - 65MM+ Throttle body or modify the explorer throttle body to reclock where the throttle cable hooks on to. You can also use your stock 60mm mustang throttle body in a crunch.
    - Stock HO 5.0 Fuel rails, injector harness
    - ACT Sensor
    - EGR coolant return line (only if you are planning on running an EGR setup)
    - 9/16th drill bit and 3/8 NPT tap for the ACT sensor and EGR Coolant return line bosses (only for 1996 - early 1997 lower intakes with EGR passages). NOTE: the ACT and EGR both receive the same size tap.



    Recommended Upgrades - the following are not mandatory but are highly recommended
    - FRPP oil pump driveshaft - 1986-1995 EFI 5.0 part number FMS-M-6605-B302 (ARP oil pump driveshafts can be used, but they are to long and will need to be grinded down, please check for proper clearances if the ARP oil pump driveshaft is to be used)
    - new water pump bolts from Ford if yours are rusty or broken off inside your old block. A full reproduction water pump bolt kit is available from Windsor-Fox.com. Do not use the ARP water pump bolt kit, as they do not come with the necessary studs.
    - TFS Valve Spring Kit part number TFS-2500100 (if you plan on running a mild cam)
    - Your choice of aftermarket cams. The TFS Stage 1 cam is an excellent choice, part number TFS-51402000
    - Roller Rockers (use pedestal mount rockers unless you plan on removing your heads to drill for stud mount)
    - Crane Roller Rocker shim kit for pedestal mount rockers, part number CRN-99170-1
    - Hardened Pushrods(or reuse your stock ones), for stock length FRPP pushrods use part number FMS-M-6565-L302

    Issues and Concerns
    - 1996 through Early 1997 Explorers have upper and lower intakes with internal EGR passages, but late 1997-2001 do not have internal EGR passages.
    - 1996 through Early 1997 Explorers have a boss on the lower intake that can be drilled out for the ACT Sensor (on intake runner number 5) and for the EGR coolant return line. The late 1997-2001 explorer lower intakes that do not have internal EGR passages, also do not have a boss for the ACT Sensor.
    - 1996 through some early 1997 Explorers used standard cast iron GT40 heads and "may" be drilled for air injection internally(look for the 3 bars on the front of the head). However, note that no explorer head is drilled for the crossover tubes in the back of the heads.
    - Late 1997 through 2001 Explorers came with GT40P heads and are not drilled for air injection internally(look for the 4 bars on front of the head or the GTP logo on the side of the head.)
    - GT40P heads have a revised spark plug angle and require the use of GT40P compliant headers. Ford makes headers designed for the GT40P head. Standard GT40 heads do not need P compliant headers. NOTE: All FRPP headers are compliant with all ford style 5.0 heads (gt40, gt40p, etc)
    - Explorers came with Hypereutectic pistons. If you plan on running boost, please keep this in mind.
    - The explorer timing chain cover, water pump, oil pan, oil pump, oil pick up tube, and fuel rails can not be reused, but the fuel injectors can be. NOTE: I have heard of the fuel rails being used, but it will require line adaptors, as the fuel lines are in the rear. (I heard the SN95 5.0 cars may have this style from the factory, but I can't verify this.) For simplicity, it's much easier to use your fox rails.




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    Last edited by michaelg10; 07-15-2012 at 07:40 PM. Reason: Add link to article

  9. #9
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    The info michaelg10 posted seems to be more aimed at a injected set-up, so may be better for you. My info is more carb- oriented. I cannot tell from your original post if you are going back to injection, or staying carb. Good luck either way!
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

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