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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default Weird VIN, strange rego fun and games

    ITZOLD, my Mustang should be a notchback but its a hatchback, coded as a P10 on the vin number as a Notch.

    I've run a New Zealand CARJAM report on ITZOLD to secure it perported history.

    "The vehicle has been re-registered de-registered in the past and then registered again.
    Odometer readings are inconsistent and jump backwards sometimes. Possible reasons could include: entry error at an inspection time or border check, or around the clock, or a wound-back odometer. Odometer readings are incorrect? You maybe able to fix it".

    The original US Market www.getvin.com report I ran showed vin1FABP10B4CF109967 was an Original order Oct 28 1981, no concers, but no km history, it was exported to Japan but no reference to this.

    Neither show up any problems, although it lookes like someone tried to convert the odometers km reading into milesduring one bi annual inspection.

    I have a 1982 VIN 1FABP10B4CF109967 Mustang, but it is wrongly registered as a 1983 ex Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) car.



    It was built in Dearborn. Since 1990, its been in New Zealand (that funny group of islands below Tasmania, Australia).( Its full of JDM stuff, the Special Vehicle Engineering fold back door mirrors seen on British and German , Dutch and French market Mustangs, speed chimes that kick in at 100 km/h on the Canadian speedo, front repeater lights, yellow inspection paint on all the chassis bolts, grey stickers in Japanese on the fuel filler, valve cover and other areas. Std rear window wiper, tilt wheel, power steering windows and brakes, intermittent wipe, AM/FM stereo, laminated glass, rear window heater, heavy duty battery and TRX wheels and tires).

    Engine is BR101037, but again the NZ rego authorities have made a mistake, and its on the rego papers as BR101031

    Detail is Stamp2, DateO116Y, Small Code 2J213, Engine No BR101037

    See




    Diff is 2.73 OG24 code Sterling non lsd



    Chassis has 9 June 1982 stamped on it



    The NZ registration also makes a claim that the body is permantly punched with M11B10133FJ

    Trans is a C3, which should be a C code I guess.

    I don't know for sure, because I haven't extracted the Buck tags yet as I might have to disassemble the parts in the way of the drivers side light housing. The door post tag is gone, I've not found the build sheet.
    Last edited by xctasy; 06-18-2012 at 12:25 AM. Reason: thumbnail wouldn't allow full size pictures, and 21213 is in fact 2J213

  2. #2

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    The full VIN for the engine is 1FABP15BXBR101037

    1FA = Ford vehicle manufactured in USA
    B = manual seatbelts, no airbags
    P = passenger car
    15 = Mustang 3-dr sedan (hatchback)
    B = 3.3L I6 engine
    X = VIN check digit
    B = 1981 model year
    R = San Jose Assembly
    101037 = 1,037th 1981 Mustang scheduled for production at San Jose Assembly

    Axle tag...

    WGG-C
    0G24 = built July 24, 1980
    2 73 = 2.73:1, non-locking diff
    6 7 = 6.75"
    S258C

    Engine sticker...

    IJ204AA = 50 state (1), Thermactor w/ AC (J), 3.3L I6 (204), design level A, calibration & revision level A
    J16 = calibrated on September 16
    10 = 10 initial timing
    C1-12B Cleveland Engine Plant 1 (C1), calibration number 12B
    R 0 = revision number 0
    S 26 = service level 26
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  3. #3
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default em Oh En Gee-Are-Eee-Elll MONGREL

    One thousand thankyous!

    Well, it lookes like the robot certianly 'hic-uped'! It's a mongrel!

    Thanks Mick. Any observations or cautionaries? I've had the thing for some time, and litterally like it to bits.

    As far as I'm aware the car is safe, with no concerns, but I do have to find out if its been cut and shut. I don't believe it has, as the body is tight and uniform, but the car should have a notch back. It unlikely that its been cut and shut, but I need to know what exactly has happened.

    What's strange is that
    a) the chassis is not the engines, and
    b) the chassis is not the VIN codes.

    Q. Is my first objective to get a Marti report on the current VIN number and also the engines one for something like this? Is the VIN numbers missing a check digit for chassis the engine came in because its a restricted or deceased production line demised item, or should I get info on that VIN too?

    I do have other leads I can easily pursue.

    I've got a car that's got a special noted NZ Transport Agency reference number of M11B10133FJ, which I can trace by former owners (The Official Informations Act over here in NZ allows people to contact former owners if they don't object; in fact, he's in Dunedin and I was at the local Yank car gurus place getting the headlamps sorted when the owner walked in. I wasn't aware who he was untill the owner noted that he knew the car and the owner).

    NZ is so small and easy to contact people, especially for Fox Mustangs. People here are real friendly, but curiosity a mile wide but only an inch deep.

    (I'm not a Mustang car club member because I am an ardent I-6 enthusiast, and so I just don't do nice polite low level Mustang V8 chatt. Since I was six years old, I've been into Cleveland, BDA, Cologne and GAA Cosworth engined Ford Sedan race cars (Trans Am and International Group 2 to 5 race cars 1970 to 1984), plus BMW M60 engined cars like the CSL's and M1's, Aussie E series 195 to 306 hp inline six competition Valiants from 1969 to 1973, all Dino Ferraris, 911 Porsches, any Lamborghinis, all De Tomasos and every Maserati; way more complicated than the 1981 to 1996 50 ouncers, or anything that Dearborn put out in the S-shell era. So I can seam a bit boring asking if the owner of a hot 1970 429 Boss "have you seen a 68 155 hp L code" or a 1981 Thunderbird owner with TRX tires if his white car is a 3.3, and does it have a low mount starter with a 164 tooth flexplate. ).
    Last edited by xctasy; 06-15-2012 at 04:25 AM. Reason: Spelling again. Time to start writing lines...

  4. #4

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    The pic you have shown of the 6 9 82 date stamp on the chassis, is that the front or rear of the chassis?

    To me the car seems to be the culmination of one of two possibilities...

    1. If the answer of my question above is "front", the back half of the car is 1981 hatchback (1FABP15BXBR101037) with the original engine and transmission, and the front half of the car is very late 1982 or very early 1983, all with an early 1982 coupe VIN on the dash (1FABP10B4CF109967).

    2. If the answer of my question above is "rear", the body is very late 1982 or very early 1983, with the original engine, and quite possibly the original rear, from a 1981 hatchback (1FABP15BXBR101037), all with an early 1982 coupe VIN on the dash (1FABP10B4CF109967).

    If you want to dig into it more get a pic of the buck tag or the codes from it and pull the front fenders off and get the VIN from the inner fender tags.
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  5. #5
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default Wanna put my tender heart thru a blender?

    Thanks so much for the excellent help.

    Quote Originally Posted by FoxChassis View Post
    The pic you have shown of the 6 9 82 date stamp on the chassis, is that the front or rear of the chassis?
    Its the rear of chassis for that 9 June 1982 date code.... with a twilight zone of 2 modle years with the 1980 6.7" axle

    Quote Originally Posted by FoxChassis View Post
    2. If the answer of my question above is "rear", the body is very late 1982 or very early 1983, with the original engine, and quite possibly the original rear, from a 1981 hatchback (1FABP15BXBR101037), all with an early 1982 coupe VIN on the dash (1FABP10B4CF109967).

    If you want to dig into it more get a pic of the buck tag or the codes from it and pull the front fenders off and get the VIN from the inner fender tags.
    Front has heaps of other stampings marks, which are easy for me to picture and show for the benifit of all here. I haven't found the buck codes or plate yet because I've not wanted to remove what I thought were pristine components. You and others have said a guy has to have to dig around to find the headlamp tags, sometimes taking off the platic housings of partially dropping parts to get access around that endura style front. I am keen to remove bits now to get to the bottom of this.
    Last edited by xctasy; 06-16-2012 at 01:41 AM. Reason: Like my car, I'm cutting and shutting to end up with one agreeable whole...

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Release the hounds, the (identity) chase has begun. I'm curious to see how this turns out.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder and Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  7. #7
    FEP Power Member Mustang Kid's Avatar
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    Default

    Like FoxChassis said, take the front bumper and fenders off. I have hound that it is easiest to take them off as an assembly. 3 bolts on the top of the fenders, a bolt in the door jam, bolt at the bottom of the fender, the wheel wells have to come out, the small support bar inside that is bolted to the edge of the front of the fender needs to come off, 4 bolts on the bottom of the bumper, and 3 bolts that hold supports for the top of tbhe bumper. Just have someone help take it off.

    Your car is a neat one for sure. Do you have any more pictures of the car itself?
    Interested to see the buck tag and hidden vin tags. The buck is usually screwed into the radiator support.
    -Sam
    1982 Mustang GL 3.3l Hatchback {Daily Driver/Focused Project}
    1983 Capri RS Black Magic Ttop
    1984 Capri RS Sunroof
    1984 Mustang GT 'Vert
    1985 Mustang LX 5.0l Coupe
    1985 Mustang LX SSP CHP
    1985 Mustang LX 3.8l 'Vert

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    Hmmmm







    Just my album http://vb.foureyedpride.com/album.php?albumid=2922



    And some in my Photo bucket account gallery http://s1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc501/xecute6/

    More to follow.


    Disassemble a pristine 6k car?








    Hmmm,


    Well I've got my kids putting the road roughness proxy sensors in



    I've put on amber lights....







    Sure, why not!
    Last edited by xctasy; 05-01-2017 at 05:27 AM.

  9. #9

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    Don't know if this has been asked or posted before but is there a door tag for this car?

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    No, its missing the door post decal, and thats the awkward part. So are the build sheets and it really makes removal of the front end clip manadatory before I go any further. Any useless to the cause info is there, like the tire placard, but no door post tag. Go figure...

    As you can see, there are some shut line inacuracies, with the rear edge of the passenger door instepped about 60 thou of an inch, but without going over it with a cover meter, I've no proof of what parts are from what Stang.



    The Fox Mustang is just like my old 'family hack' 250 cubic Inch 1984 XE Falcon GL sedan...the whole front clip comes off in one piece if you have help, so that's my only next option.



    I've got to use the vehicle for Road Inspections this week, so unless my son can remove the front clip over the next few days, FEP won't get the numbers till mid week at the very earliest.
    Last edited by xctasy; 06-17-2012 at 05:25 AM. Reason: added info

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default Yay, its legit, but some bu99er has changed the windscreen VIN !

    Quote Originally Posted by Mustang Kid View Post
    Like FoxChassis said, take the front bumper and fenders off. I have hound that it is easiest to take them off as an assembly. 3 bolts on the top of the fenders, a bolt in the door jam, bolt at the bottom of the fender, the wheel wells have to come out, the small support bar inside that is bolted to the edge of the front of the fender needs to come off, 4 bolts on the bottom of the bumper, and 3 bolts that hold supports for the top of tbhe bumper. Just have someone help take it off.

    Your car is a neat one for sure. Do you have any more pictures of the car itself?
    Interested to see the buck tag and hidden vin tags. The buck is usually screwed into the radiator support.


    Today I finally replaced the 11A1195 A/C fan belts with shorter 11A1015 non A/C fanbelts as a provisional measure after a previous driver sh99ed the FoMoCo York compressor itself due to not having enough oil in it.

    At the same time, my son Ashley (Ash) did a partial strip out of the front part of the bumper and guards. Due to the fact that I have to use the car at night for auditing and road roughness, I can't remove any of the wiring or lights to get the guards clear of the inner catwalks where the buck codes sit. If mu lights are out of adjustment, I could have some issues with the validity of my reports, or find myself liable if my lights are not working or not factory functional while conducting a Night Drive-over.

    After a little discussion with Ash, we got Moms vanity mirror, cleaned it up with some Windoline, and took a few snaps with my A495 Canon. We have a big 42" screen for State Highway Auditing, and we got this to look blow the image up after we first flipped the image and rotated it 180 degrees.


    Good news is thew whole vehicle is uniform. The buck code is indeed R101037, exactly the same as engine number. Great to know team!
    Buck code same on both sides. So the tendered VIN no on the dash is not the same as the body and engine. Hence I've got to find the actual VIN with its proper sequence number, and search that for my Marti Report, as well as the tenderd VIN number. Since the engine number and buck code aggree, I've got to go back to Vehicle Identification New Zealand, and update them on the correct engine number, and find evidence that the VIN numbers were changed at some stage from two independent sources.

    Normally this is done by IVS (Independent Verification Services Limited), and the details matched when imports arrive in New Zealand, but for some reason, perhaps due to the non invasive nature of New Zealand inspections from 1990 to last year, the errors and requirements weren't resolved satisfactorily. I've worked with these guys and normally, the cars just sit untill the situation is resolved. If it isn't, the vehicle can potentially be send back to the country of origin.

    Without further adoo, here are the Flipped and Rotated Passenger side Mustang photo confirming the buck code is in line with the engine number.See how it lines up with the original engine number



    And some other snap-shots while my 20 year old got heavily into the verification process. Took from 2.19 to 4.32 pm for him to do it, top job!







    Last edited by xctasy; 06-18-2012 at 02:40 AM. Reason: Updated hyperlinks and added photo's, plus comparison of engine no and buck code

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    I looked high and low for the headlamp buck code on the drivers side front for my Dearborn made Michigan mauler, but nothing anywhere as far as I could tell.



    Last edited by xctasy; 06-18-2012 at 02:11 AM.

  13. #13

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    Since the car was made at San Jose Assembly (code "R" in the VIN), the buck tag will be behind the passenger-side headlamps, just above the bumper shock. It was on the driver-side in '79 and '80 but moved to the passenger-side sometime between '80 and '81. The very last pic you posted you can see the driver-side bumper shock in the upper left corner, bolted to the bumper.
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  14. #14
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Ha ha, yeah, my bad, I didn't realise it was SJ! Man, this is cool, what a game changer. I do auditing/inspecting for a living, so I know how elusive that critical shot can be.

    I thought I might be looking at it without recognising what it was. On I4's and I6's, V6's and V8 Foxes of those years, the air cleaner air inlet snorkle is passenger side, which hides everything, but it might be there, I just haven't been dilligent enough to get it yet! I took a video of the offside (US Pass side flank) and 26 other photo's, but still didn't see it. I'll go again and check. When I found the best chassis code stamping, I then pealed off a around 11 other photos to ensure I had enough info before putting the plastic inner flare back on.

    These are the images I was able to take, but it lookes like I've got every one except the one by the bumper shock.





    Last edited by xctasy; 06-18-2012 at 03:09 PM.

  15. #15
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default Were going back in Captain...set FazeRs to stun, but Foxzem First

    I tried to video it but that darned snorkle got in the way





  16. #16
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default









    Last edited by xctasy; 06-18-2012 at 04:37 PM.

  17. #17
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Just ran my Auto Check on the original VIN number, and its all good! Saved it as a pdf. Got both reports for both the dash vin and the original, so its off to Independent Verifications Services NZ to sort the details out. Lookes like I'm going to be up for buying two Marti reports for each VIN too.

    Thanks for everyones help

  18. #18
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Wink Its a JDM 1981 Mustang Hatch...legit!!!!



    P15BR101037 9D
    BV A H JPN
    L P U 1B
    15R



    Care of my son. Well, what did you expect, that wrong VIN on the dash says 1982Dearborn, and I was looking for a buck code in the wrong place, that didn't even exist. And just one minute looking after FoxChassis got me sorted while I was under the charcol canister, we found it just sitting there. Snap!!!!

    You couldn't wipe the smile off my dial with an crow bar.
    Last edited by xctasy; 10-16-2012 at 06:14 PM. Reason: 9D Paint code added

  19. #19

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    Thanks for posting the buck tag. This is the first ever that I have seen with a "JPN" (exported to Japan, I presume) code. In the upper right coner of that tag (obscured in the pic you posted) is the original paint color.

    P15BR101037 = [see VIN decode above]
    BV = 3.3L I6 engine (B), C-3 transmission? (V)
    A = air conditioner
    H
    JPN = Japan? (exported to Japan)
    L
    P
    U
    1B
    15R = [combination of body codes "15" (VIN) and "61R" (door tag)]
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  20. #20
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Charmed with your help!

    I'll take the tag off and see what the paint code is soon as I can figure out how TerryMWalsh did this in his SJ Capri BM. As soon as you reminded me that it was an R car, I instantly thought of my Aussie bro looking up over the vac canister for the said buck code mount. Felt like a real ding bat after I saw it sparkling in the air like the stars of orions belt. What a plonker I was to wait almost 2 years because I thought it was a Dearborn, Mich build and got frustrated that I couldn't find that non existant Dearborn tag. I also remember one other British person with a rhd SVE altered Cobra or Indy Pace car (1980 registration) that had the same battle, but he found it too. It's okay, not everyone has crawled to the depths of the knowledge tree like you have, FoxChassis.

    Trans is my beloved C3, lookes like its got the Variable Reluctor electronic speedo kit, which I've used for my Brantz meter, but may have been a stock cruise control item. The brake light and lots of little wiring reworks look like it may have had cruise control or at least an extensive alarm system. My mechanic works on Mustangs, including a version of Dick Johnstons Green No 17 1984 Fox 5.0 GT, and he says although original in spec, its had a lot of defects streaming from non standard replacement parts in the wiring, indicative of it being something of an orphan in Japan.

    I'm sure your aware of the 100 or so RHD Mustangs Ford of Britains Special Vehicle Engineering did on the Type Approved Export Foxes. One thing I noticed when I saw it on the lot in Dunedin in November 2010 was those UK Type approval /TUV T5 things were included (fold back door mirrors are the standard SVE Ford jiggle up with Fox Thunderbird remote but Euro Taunus/Cortina/Granada mirrors married together). It missed out on the Mark III Capri rear lights (which were needed for European endosed backup and fog light requirements; JIS standards allow stock US lights as long as the light pattern is reversed. Mine had a mixture of Koyoto and Stanley headlamps, and really bad wiring which is why I wasn't keen on dropping the whole front end). Most UK SVE modified Mustangs were I6's with C4's from what I can tell. J.D.M. cars of American extraction were quite okay being LHD in RHD Japan...it was a sign of pretentious according to what I've heard.

    It's also got Canadian speedo and 100km/h chimes and an oxygen sensor.
    Last edited by xctasy; 06-19-2012 at 08:13 AM.

  21. #21
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    There are a bunch of Japanese stickers, front end stamping marks and removed stickers. I'll unbolt the Buck code sometime. Its head has been changed for a 1963 small chamber 170 item from a 1967 Australian Falcon as a stand in for the time being; the EGR and AIR lines and one red polyethylene emissions line was broken on repair of the leaky head gasket. Fuel consumption was down to 12 US mpg around hilly Dunedin, the gasket is a steel 22 thou gasket, and I can't just torque it up and plane the head, as the engine has to remain its due to be used for trial CARB/IM style emission testing for other engine part combinations. So I've put in an APPCO AP630 41 thou gasket.









    Last edited by xctasy; 06-21-2012 at 05:13 AM.

  22. #22
    FEP Member Foxy Capri's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=xctasy;1402036]Charmed with your help!

    I'll take the tag off and see what the paint code is soon as I can figure out how TerryMWalsh did this in his SJ Capri BM. As soon as you reminded me that it was an R car, I instantly thought of my Aussie bro looking up over the vac canister for the said buck code mount. QUOTE]

    Deano, I put my hand up in there above the vac canister and felt for the screw. Once I found it, I then guessimated where it was behind the rh high beam headlight and drilled a small hole in the headlight bucket to line it up for a screwdriver to fit in there. Screw, screw, screw and viola, the screw and buck tag fell to the floor! Good luck with your mission.
    aka Terry M Walsh
    Downunder in Melbourne, Australia

    1981 Mercury Capri, 'White' Black Magic, 200-2V/C4
    1983 Ford Capri, 2.8i, 5-spd

  23. #23
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Thanks Terry.

    Looks like our cars were from the same factory; Same white, similar engine. Love the rarity of yours. I'm dealing with similar issues over seat comfort although I've decided to keep four stud and TRX's.

    Your car is such an inspiration to me.

    The chassis marks at the front are still there for observation.









    Last edited by xctasy; 06-23-2012 at 06:35 PM.

  24. #24
    FEP Senior Member qikgts's Avatar
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    Kind of off topic but I love those side view mirrors!

    Very cool fact find finding mission indeed... I applaud your effort to find the real identity of your car!
    '85 GT

    The other one... 2005 Lincoln LS 3.9L V8

  25. #25
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qikgts View Post
    Kind of off topic but I love those side view mirrors!

    Very cool fact find finding mission indeed... I applaud your effort to find the real identity of your car!
    Stock 1979 to 1985 Mustang door mirrors were/are illegal in Europe and some parts of Asia due to European Common , TUV, Japanese MIT and British type aproval rules.

    But the S shell/Fox had a whole raft of other compliant variants to use, so the Euro/Jap/UK factory compliant (no personal) exports used the basic 1980-1982 Thunderbird holder for mirrors, which can fit a standard Fox body as the inner doors before 1983 were all carry overs between all 2-door versions (Zeph, Cougar, Tbird, Mustang, Durango, US Fox Capri)



    The rest of the mirror is just 1977-1979 European/US Capri (non S Le Cat), also found on some Ghia trim cars like the Cortina, Escort, Taunus, Fiesta and Euro Granada

    Last edited by xctasy; 07-01-2012 at 03:34 AM.

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