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  1. #51
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quikstang2 View Post
    The ranger got bumped up to 2.5L in 1998-2000. There were a few "leftovers" in 2001 too. It's a C code in the 8th digit in the VIN. The Mazda B-2500 for those years is the same thing, obviously.
    I'm not too familiar with when the changes in block machining happened. Apparently the 2.5L blocks won't fit a distributor, and the head is dual plug. So there's that to work around. I was just tossing ideas around. Not sure what you have available to work with.
    All I have to work with at the moment is the stock engine that came with the car. I'm just collecting ideas to see what MIGHT be possible for a DD 2.3L non-turbo application. I appreciate the info; keep it coming.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  2. #52
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    I favour the stock 2300 ohc block and head combo. Its the worlds easiest build up!

    All you need to do is copy and elaborate on the 130 tp 155 hp 2-bbl engine combos in David Vizards early 2000 Pinto work, and remember that a 2300 OHC has 15% more potential for power and torque anywhere in the rev range. The cam set ups were ex USA (Sig Erson 134 and other suggestions)

    The basics of a 150 hp daily driver SOHC Ford were discussed with the small 2.0 Pinto version back in 1983 to 1988 by David Vizard in his book Modifying Fords SOHC.

    The 2000/2300/2500 Lima engine is a wide bore spacing, four bearing head, tall deck siamesed bore version of the ''Pinto" OHC 1300/1600/1800/2000.

    In that book, the stock 5200 carb was able to be gasflowed up to the same CFM as a 350 cfm Holley 2300 series 7448 carb with just a few mods. With the cam technology then, the right cam and work to exhast and head porting, the stock 2-bbl intake manifold could flow brilliantly, and yield 130 hp easily. If a 500 cfm Holley 2300 series 4412 carb is added with Racer Walsh adaptor, well over 135 hp is possible, and the stock EGR/AIR/US emission bits could be left.

    The 2300 is a good 15% bigger, and what stood for streetable performance then on a 2000 cc in the 80's would be a great 155 hp streetable today.

    The peak head and carb CFM figures, cam profile, and exhast requirements to make 155 hp just have to be obtained. Even the feedback 6500 series Weber can be taken out with subtle mods to allow those kind of 350 cfm figures, allowing your street 2300 to look almost entirely stock.

  3. #53
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Thanks for that info, xctasy. Reps sent.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  4. #54
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Just checked rock auto
    79 Mustang, 2.3 n/a
    exhaust
    pipe
    Walker 43873
    (conv to muffler)
    intermediate pipe 21.79

    79-84 Mustang/Capri

    no 2.25" single pipe listed.
    Thanks for this!.......Rockauto does not list this for an 85.....but everything else is the same so it should fit mine as well.

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  5. #55
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IDMooseMan View Post
    ...I'd also like to hear how the different mufflers sound before I spend the time and money installing them on my car.

    Cherry Bombs and Thrush Turbo mufflers sounded great on my previous V-8 cars, but I have no idea how they'd sound on 4-banger...
    Short video from Alaska:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6ohOwev2xI

    Magnaflow XL:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=kEAzX28RKyM

    Cherry Bomb:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=...ture=endscreen

    Is this guy still a member?:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1UEE...eature=related
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 08-20-2012 at 12:45 AM.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  6. #56

  7. #57
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    I am speechless, but I bookmarked the link anyway.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  8. #58

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    Doner drive train from a duratec ranger?
    I bet in a light stang MPG would be pretty good.

    2004+ Ranger 2.3L Duratec
    143 HP @ 5250 RPM
    154 lb-ft @ 3750 RPM
    no IMRC / swirl control
    MAF housing integrated into the air box lid (with newer style slot MAF sensor)
    regular t-stat
    plastic valve cover
    different exhaust manifold
    rated 24 city 29 hwy (old EPA calcs) for the manual trans
    1983 GLX vert
    88 roller motor
    Intake/Exhaust/Underdrives/Turbocoupe t5
    13.79 @ 96.29 1.86 60'

    1986 Mustang Gt
    95 longblock w/smog bumps removed/TFS1 cam/Explorer intake/Hedman Long tubes/Mac catback 252hp/311tq
    .
    13.05@102.55

  9. #59
    FEP Senior Member quikstang2's Avatar
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    ^^^ The Mazda 2.3 would be interesting, wonder what motor mounts would work...
    2015 Jeep Wrangler Sport
    1984 Mustang convertible

  10. #60
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Time to start seriously planning my build up. I want to swap in a T-5 while I'm at it, too. Probably not gonna go for the full 150-HP. I did find the free download eBook of David Vizard's "How to Modify Ford S.O.H.C Engines" that xctasy mentioned in Post #52, to start reading.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  11. #61

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    You also never mentioned whether there are smog test requirements you need to pass where you live. From the fact that no muffler shop will make you a system without a cat I would think Yes. A decent header, free flowing exhaust and performance oriented cam will do a lot to wake up a stock motor, but keeping it smog legal as well is going to be tough.

    The nice thing about the OHC motor though, you can swap in the stock cam, smog test it, then swap back to a Comp Cams 260 or 268 duration all in one day, since its right on the top of the motor. Stock duration is somewhere around 200 degrees I think. Neither of those cams would be too big for the street, not with a stick shift in a car that weighs about 2500lbs

    http://www.compperformancegroupstore...ry_Code=70-CAM

  12. #62
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    I think the smog laws where he lives and cali where you are are just a little different.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  13. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by brianj View Post
    I think the smog laws where he lives and cali where you are are just a little different.
    I understand that, but he has repeatedly mentioned that no one will make him an exhaust system without a cat in it.

    Have you tried getting a blank "test pipe" made, tell the muffler shop you drive on the street, but also do autocrosses in it on a closed course or something. Have them make you a pipe in the same configuration as the cat, with the same flanges on either end. Then you can swap it out yourself and put the cat on a shelf in case you ever need it.

    Yeahs ago I had a Dodge Omni and I used to run it with nothing but the Cat to knock the edge off the exhaust noise. So you should be able to get away with that too. Most power gains are going to be in the exhaust header anyway, not the rest of the system

  14. #64
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    Realistically, I do not believe a cat in good shape (especially a modern replacement cat) will cost anything in horsepower, anyway.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  15. #65
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Sorry about that, I thought I had mentioned the Idaho emissions testing requirements. Emissions testing is required in Idaho, but my Mustang is exempt due to its age.

    The exhaust shops won't build a system without a cat con due to federal regulations. If it came with a cat con from the factory, they are required to reinstall a cat con when any exhaust work is done.

    I agree with Brian, if the cat con is working properly, there shouldn't be any performance issues to worry about. It was mentioned previously that the cat con also provides extra rigidity to the exhaust system. Some have noticed a lot more rattling noise with cat con removed due to increased pipe movement.

    I was looking for an aftermarket exhaust system I could install at home, but haven't found one. Several suggestions have been made and I'll look into those suggestions as the project begins / progresses. I'll also look into the "test pipe" suggestion, too. I was thinking of using a section of flex-pipe as a temporary solution to see if that improves performance. If it does, then I can consider the cat con to be failing and in need of removal / replacement.

    Do you have any suggestions whether to use the Comp Cams 260 or the 268? What is the primary difference between these two cams? What else would I need to change / upgrade?

    With my oil leaks issues, I want to regasket the engine as a minimum. If the engine compression checks out good, would swapping the cam and exhaust system (Ranger header, etc) help out without doing a complete rebuild? I know this won't get me into the 150-HP range, and I'm probably not gonna do that anyhow. I'm beginning to think 100 - 110 rwhp is more attainable with my currently available resources.

    Edit:
    I'm liking the specs on the Comp Cams 268H Magnum:
    Cam P/N: 70-127-6 - $214.03
    Lifters P/N: 846-8 - $67.74
    Steel rocker arms P/N: 1270-8 - $54.85
    Cam / Lifter Kit P/N: CL70-127-6 - $267.70
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 10-12-2012 at 05:02 PM.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  16. #66

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    FWIW- I've heard the 83-93 cast iron manifold can flow REALLY well too. It's what I have on my 86, as it came factory and that way I can still run an EGR system on the car. I had a custom exhaust system installed without a converter and that seemed to do the trick. I don't think I would see much, if any gain adding a Ranger header. You must consider on the Ranger header that the tubes are pinched down up at the head and also at the collector due to clearances for bolts at the top and the small collector at the bottom- both of which can restrict flow. The cast iron manifold doesn't have this due to a totally different cast design. I've heard from the oval track guys that the only reason they don't use the cast iron manifold is because of weight and the fear of cracking the iron. Otherwise, supposedly the 83-93 manifold will flow the same as or outflow a Ranger header. Your choke point seems to be an old, clogged converter. Have a custom exhaust system built in stainless steel with a high-flow aftermarket converter and swap on an 83-86 cast iron manifold and EGR pipe at the same time. It'll drive like a totally difference machine!
    86 Mercury Capri GS 2.3L
    11 Ford Ranger XL 2.3L
    10 Ford Focus SE 2.0L




    19 Years of Foureyedpride.com

  17. #67

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    Quote Originally Posted by IDMooseMan View Post
    Sorry about that, I thought I had mentioned the Idaho emissions testing requirements. Emissions testing is required in Idaho, but my Mustang is exempt due to its age...

    Do you have any suggestions whether to use the Comp Cams 260 or the 268? What is the primary difference between these two cams? What else would I need to change / upgrade?

    With my oil leaks issues, I want to regasket the engine as a minimum. If the engine compression checks out good, would swapping the cam and exhaust system (Ranger header, etc) help out without doing a complete rebuild? I know this won't get me into the 150-HP range, and I'm probably not gonna do that anyhow. I'm beginning to think 100 - 110 rwhp is more attainable with my currently available resources.

    Edit:
    I'm liking the specs on the Comp Cams 268H Magnum:
    Cam P/N: 70-127-6 - $214.03
    Lifters P/N: 846-8 - $67.74
    Steel rocker arms P/N: 1270-8 - $54.85
    Cam / Lifter Kit P/N: CL70-127-6 - $267.70
    If you still have good compression and less than 100k miles on it I would think you could swap on of the smaller cam into it without any other modifications. If the motor has many miles on it I would have a valve job done, mill the head a little and get the cam and lifter kit, and maybe the springs. But the machine shop can tell you if your springs are tired when they do the valve job. I have never run either cam in a 2300, I have a 3.3/200. My motor has a cam similar to the 260, but its not a Comp Cams grind. The 260 will make you fail smog (because of the overlap, most likely), but isn't so big that it will really effect either the streetability of the car, or the fuel economy too much.

    You have a 4 speed stick transmission? You can probably get away with the bigger cam. I don't think the carb on these motors is much of a hindrance to performance. I wish my 3.3/200 six came with a 2bbl as big as what you guys have. Email Comp Cams, they will happily tell you which parts should be changed, and suggest which cam is best. The 2.3 exhaust is ten times better than what the 3.3/200 came with too, but I'm sure there are better flowing headers out there. Th Ranger cast iron or tubular one looks like a pretty nice design, and I'm sure they are dirt cheap too.

  18. #68
    FEP Member Andfab99's Avatar
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    I have an Offenhauser Dual-Port if you decide to go the 4bbl route.

    Tim

    '80 Fairmont Boxtop

  19. #69
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Andfab99 - I hadn't considered swapping on a 4-bbl, but I'm sending a PM to you anyway.

    BRWSaver - Emissions is not an issue for me. My car is exempt due to age. She currenty has the non-OD 4-spd, but I have a T-5 swap in mind for this car. I noticed the low to high RPM range for both cams is different by 300 RPM at both ends, 260H is 1200 - 5200 RPM, 268H is 1500 - 5500 RPM.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  20. #70

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    Quote Originally Posted by IDMooseMan View Post
    Andfab99 - I hadn't considered swapping on a 4-bbl, but I'm sending a PM to you anyway.

    BRWSaver - Emissions is not an issue for me. My car is exempt due to age. She currenty has the non-OD 4-spd, but I have a T-5 swap in mind for this car. I noticed the low to high RPM range for both cams is different by 300 RPM at both ends, 260H is 1200 - 5200 RPM, 268H is 1500 - 5500 RPM.
    If you have a non-OD 4 speed, all you'll really get for your trouble with a T5 swap is a little better MPGs on the freeway. But how much depends on often you cruise in the OD 5th gear. While cruising the freeway now in 4th what RPM are you turning? To get an idea of how little acceleration you will have in the OD 5th go somewhere and try to accelerate in 4th turning 20% fewer RPMs then you normally do while cruising at 60mph. Or to put it simpler, how is your current acceleration from 48mph in 4th?

  21. #71
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    She hasn't been driven for awhile now, due to mechanical issues. Cruising at 65 - 70 MPH is in the 2100 - 2200 RPM range.

    Main reason for the T-5 swap is to increase MPG. I think my 4-spd gear ratios are:
    1st - 3.50
    2nd - 2.21
    3rd - 1.43
    4th - 1.00
    Rev - 3.38

    Gear ratios for the T-5 I'm looking to swap in are:
    1st - 3.97
    2nd - 2.34
    3rd - 1.48
    4th - 1.00
    5th - 0.79
    Rev - 3.70

    Current acceleration with the 4-spd isn't stellar by any stretch of the imagination, but is acceptable, IMHO, for the traffic situations I drive in around here. I'd like it to be better, and I think the T-5 swap will help.
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 12-23-2013 at 02:54 PM.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  22. #72
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    I beleive Eepreete ( I think I just killed his name) is looking to unload a set of 3.27 gears for a 7.5 rear on parts for sale right now. like, 10$ for the set. This with the t-5 would help pep a lot. If not those, my 7.5 is coming out this winter, and it has somewhere around 3.73-4.10 gears in it, and you can have them for the ride. One of those gearsets will let you take advantage of a t-5 for performance and economy.
    Last edited by brianj; 10-14-2012 at 08:48 PM.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  23. #73

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    If you really want to get into it, You could convert to DOHC.

    http://starcityracing.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=36426

    And about that cat situation, This might help. If not, Tell the exhaust shop the car is a race car and does not get driven on the street.

    http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...4ac8500d294153
    '85 1E GT ~ Terminator swap in progress

  24. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by FastFox View Post
    If you really want to get into it, You could convert to DOHC.

    http://starcityracing.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=36426
    Sadly, that project has stalled badly. Heads converted, just need to find time to fab the intake and exhuast. It looks like it'll end up as a carb'ed N/A motor for my sons 84 hatch.

  25. #75
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    Just went over that volvo head swap on that other site. Thanks. Now I want one.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

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