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  1. #76
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    You might want to look into getting your own- some were getting cheap to buy. I know a blackloight bulb is quite inexpensive.(flashback to the sixties/seventies--)
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  2. #77
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Yeah, I might as well. I'm sure I'll get some use out of one.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
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  3. #78
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    You got your oil leaks fixed yet?

    A tip for the dipstick tube.. Unbolt it at the top, and see if it can move around easily. If it is no longer making a good tight press-fit into the block it can leak. You can expand the tube by carefully pounding a tapered punch into it until it is big enough.
    Marc aka tripice351. 84.5 GT-350 2.3T.. and now, 1982 GL coupe.

  4. #79
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Nope, still leaking. Thanks for the tip on the dipstick tube. I'll check that before I head out for work tonight.

    With my luck, I'm assuming I'm gonna hafta pull the tranny and motor to replace those seals. I just don't have the space to do that yet. I'm taking two weeks off, starting Monday, to get my garage cleaned out so we can park cars in the garage. If anyone is near Nampa, ID and wants to drop by, feel free to do so. I'll even fire up the BBQ. No joke, I'm not sure if this over my ability level or not. Extra hands and brain cells would be greatly appreciated.

    These leaks are driving me nuts!

    Edit:
    I loosened the dipstick tube mounting bracket. I was able to move the tube around a bit, but that may be due to the bends in it. I'm taking my wife to her doctor appointment. Since I'm gonna be on vacation starting next week, I'll leave it until then to see if it can be pulled out easily.
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 06-28-2012 at 03:03 PM.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
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  5. #80

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    Ha, I'm observant. I just posted a reply to the oil leak post from April. Anyway, as far as the head gasket prob goes I didn't see any mention of checking for coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant. I am assuming you checked these. Either one is a dead give-away.
    Have you checked the heater core for coolant leaks? They can be sneaky.

  6. #81
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Oil is coolant-free, and coolant is oil-free. Coolant leak is one of the heater hoses. I don't hear the "ticking" or see the tell-tale steam of a blown head gasket, but it could be blown between the cylinders.

    I'll be doing a compression test during the next two weeks while I'm on vacation. Well, when I'm not catching up on neglected household chores.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
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  7. #82
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    I checked for oil leakage after the car sat for awhile at work last night. The back half (towards the firewall) of the left motor mount has some oil on it. The area above and around the fuel pump and distributor, as far as I could see, is dry and clean.

    I'm thinking I have an oil pan gasket issue. What do you guys think? I suppose it could be the fuel pump, but then I'd think the front half of the left motor mount would be covered. The front half of the left motor mount is dry and clean.

    The oil dipstick tube area looks dry and clean, too. The engine could use another cleaning, with some accessories removed to give me a better spray angle, but for the most part, I think I need to concentrate my oil leak hunt efforts near the left motor mount area.

    Am I on the right track here? Anyone have any other thoughts?
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
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  8. #83
    FEP User vern2.3's Avatar
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    It might be the oil pan gasket, but I've never seen one spray oil. But I guess on a high mileage engine with alot of blow-by it's possible.

    But from what you're describing the still leak seems to be coming from the dipsitck and oil seperator area of the engine.

    Something to check on the oil seperator is to pull the PCV valve and see does the line have vacuum on the intake side of the line with the PCV valve in place and without the PCV valve in the end of that line.

    There should be vacuum on the intake portion of the line whenever engine is running, with and without the PCV valve. A clogged PCV valve could be forcing blow-by out of the line or oil seperator and onto the block.

    Second thing is with the PCV valve removed is to see if there is blow-by coming out of the oil seperator. With the PCV valve out, if there is no blow-by the seperator is blocked and needs to be unclogged.

    You might try cleaning out the seperator as part of an oil change in a two-step method. First, use a good engine oil flush following the directions onthe product. Last one I used were run the car a few hundred miles with the stuff in the engine then do an oil change.

    The just before changing the oil, unplug the PCV line, stick a funnel into the line and pour a gallon of kerosene down the funnel and let it sit for a half-hour to disolve any gum.

    Then drain the oil and kerosene and do your oil change. Use a high-detergent oil and run it for a regular oil change interval of 2000 to 3000 miles and go back to your regular oil at the next oil change.

    I've used that method to clean out engines that were so gummed up that the valve covers were full of jelly from the oil gooping up.
    Last edited by vern2.3; 07-18-2012 at 04:12 PM.
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  9. #84
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear you still have a leak .....

    I would suggest (if funds ok) that when and if you change the oil pan gasket, you might as well go ahead and change the oil pump.
    My luck would be I'd change just the gasket and a month later....pop....there goes the pump.......Do'h.........

    Scotty
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  10. #85
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    I hear ya, Scotty. If I have to pull the engine at some point in the future, I'm gonna rebuild it anyway. Tranny, too, most likely. I'd love to put in a T-5, but that won't happen any time soon.

    Rebuilding the engine would be a "Peace of Mind" action on my part. Except for the oil leaks, and coolant, too (I think it's the heater core hoses, so we'll see where that goes), the engine feels quite strong, for a 4-cylinder.

    Vern, I'll take a closer look at the oil separator. I'm just not seeing any leaking from there, but that doesn't mean it isn't the problem. If there's a chance it's plugged and causing a blow-by condition, I'd like to fix it so I can get on with some other restoration / upgrade projects.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
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  11. #86
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Well, the saga continues. I've made no progress regarding the oil leak situation. The VA finally caught up and paid my benefits back-pay. I'm planning on pulling the engine for a rebuild, so...I should be able to regasket the engine at a minimum.

    We'll see how things go with this direction change. For those who want to see what I'm planning, look at the "2.3L Horsepower Potential" thread in this section.
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 03-07-2013 at 10:32 AM. Reason: Spelling
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
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  12. #87

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    Quote Originally Posted by IDMooseMan View Post
    Thanks again, Ethan. Any idea what that head assembly weighs? I have back-hardware installed (and other issues). Maybe I need an extra pair or two of hands before I attempt this.

    Forgot to mention...reps sent.
    Hi Craig,

    What type of hardware? I am 6 weeks out from l4/l5 fusion. The Doc put cages in the front and rods in the back. Anterior and posterior incisions were done. Can't wait to be back to doing what I enjoy doing.

    I had a 1980 Capri that I changed out the pan gasket and to rear main with the engine still in the compartment. It's was 25 years ago though and I was much more limber to reach around then.
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  13. #88
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    My opinions, having Been There Done That. Ask in manner your comfortable with, and someone will help out.

    Here was my malestrom

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gysEPJ9EHMA

    Here's what I ended up with after doing four tasks with my trusty assistant

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uIGeY2xZos

    In your situation, its a great idea to have another local who is younger and more nimble to help out, that's the first requirement. Friends, Family and Fools is the disrepectfull term my Upstart business incubator mentor told me back last year. He said that co-elitions of the willing are how work is done. In my case, I employed my son for three months, got a Government grant for taking him off the unemployment que, and we got a whole lot of stuff done together. I wasn't out of pocket by any more than 280 US dollars at the end of those 3 months. I have a large amouht of military friends, I didn't draw on them because I was a bit precious and felt my son would understand me fluffing about more than a cut and thrust multi faceted military operation.

    Ash and I ended up doing four things together. But you need help if you have a sore back and espeically if you are forced to take meds. I work with people who are a bit older than most, Returned Service Veterans, and their knowledge is huge, and if you were next door, I'd be talking to a Vets Association, and ask for the resources to help you out for a few days. its not all about money, ya know, its about figuring out ways to do jobs for our protectors.

    I care for people who have been in military service, and the pay back always has to be that these guys get free labour for a few stories and some respectfull assistance. The pay back to non military types like me is that one day I'll be old, and there is no certainty I won't have messed up my back or won't be on meds too. Its not about paying it forward, its about deciding to invest is social interaction for the benifit of society.

    Most vets aren't into this as a request, its just how it is, but guys like you have become lynch pins in projects others copy, and just a little hop up work photo'ed in its humbleness is the fan needed to have people really dig hard into the 2.3 Limas performance heritage. Its one the easiest of engines to enliven!

    Second, set your productiviites down a little, and then run it as an internet project.

    I did this when I rebuilt my Mustang after
    1. a blown head gasket,
    2. blown radiator, and during set up of my road roughness gear.
    3. We also got buck codes,
    4. and a driver for me when I was too tired to do my Government and contracting work which involved 893 miles highway driving per month.

    This 43 year old got looked after by my 20 year old son, and it was awesome. I'd do it again tommorrow!

  14. #89
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 79FOX302 View Post
    Hi Craig,

    What type of hardware? I am 6 weeks out from l4/l5 fusion. The Doc put cages in the front and rods in the back. Anterior and posterior incisions were done. Can't wait to be back to doing what I enjoy doing.

    I had a 1980 Capri that I changed out the pan gasket and to rear main with the engine still in the compartment. It's was 25 years ago though and I was much more limber to reach around then.
    Titanium, I think. I asked my surgeon for, he gave me, a wallet card to carry stating I had back hardware installed in case I set off any of the airport metal detectors. I've lost the card , but I've never set off a metal detector anywhere, but it was nice having the card, just in case. You might want to ask your surgeon for one as well.

    If you can do any physical therapy to help strengthen your back and abdomen, do it. My surgeon was amazed my recovery didn't take as long as he expected. I spent a week in the hospital after the surgery, but went home for the rest of the recovery period. The doctor still kept restrictions on me, but you know how doctor's can be.

    I had L4-S1 posterior and anterior done with donor femur (Thank You for being a donor, whoever you were) replacing my dried up disk material. My hips were scraped for bone material to fuse the pedicles (pointy part of the spinal disk) in additional to the rods, screws, whatever else he put in at the time.

    By the time all this was done, I was nearly 3/4" taller. Had a h3ll of a time with pain management due to the near sheaths had shrunk over time. The surgery stretched them back close to their original length.

    For several weeks, just sitting down on the toilet made me cry due to the pain bending my back while sitting down. Using a walker helped out immensely. Graduated to a cane. Now, I only use the cane when I go places that I expect to experience extended periods of sitting, standing or walking. I don't do running anymore, but my "Quality of Life" is MUCH better after the surgery.

    I wish you a speedy recovery. Feel free to PM me with questions, if you'd like.
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 01-30-2013 at 01:48 AM.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  15. #90
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    xctasy, I love that license plate, "ITZ OLD" that is priceless, man.

    Thank you for the kind words and additional ideas. I have toned down my productivity expectations, even more now since my lay off.

    I've always enjoyed modifying the V8s, but have never done a 4-banger. I think it's time to conduct a serious tool inventory to see what I still have that hasn't been used in the past couple of decades.

    I may be overthinking this project work and scaring myself out of doing it and having fun while doing something I've always enjoyed.

    I have the skills (or, I used to anyway ) and most, if not all, of the necessary tools to do this, so I might as well give it a go.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  16. #91
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    I started surfing the AutoZone website gathering engine gasket prices, individual gaskets and the full set.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
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  17. #92
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Hooked up the battery. Checked the fluids. Warmed her up. She sounds good running on an open exhaust. Tweaked the carb for awhile. Drove her around the neighborhood to check my adjustments. I am SOOOOOO close with the carb adjustments now.

    I'm seeing some bluish smoke during acceleration when leaving the subdivision. The smoke is not as heavy / thick as it used to be, but it IS still there. Am I still too rich? Or do I have a separate issue that's causing the smoke?

    I'm still chasing one leak. After driving her around a bit today, the rag joint and right-side motor mount are covered with fluid. It's dirty fluid, which makes me think it's PS fluid. The oil on the dipstick is still nice and golden. I haven't had to add PS fluid, but I also haven't driven her for a few months.

    I need some guidance again, folks. Any ideas on whether this might be a PS fluid leak instead of an engine oil leak?

    On a separate issue, it looks like my valve cover gasket is leaking again. It never ends, does it?
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  18. #93
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    Blue smoke is oil. Did you find out if your pcv system is working properly?

    Any ideas on whether this might be a PS fluid leak instead of an engine oil leak?
    It could be. I've had problems with the power steering pump leaking out the cap on my 83L. Looking at another ps cap I have I noticed it had a diaphragm on it that the cap I was using didn't. I haven't had a chance to run the car with the other cap yet so I don't know if it will fix the leak but, I'm hopeful.

    Here is a pic so you get a better idea what I'm talking about.

    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

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  19. #94
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    That's what I was thinking. I'm planning a rebuild anyway, but the confirmation just solidifies my plans.

    As far as I can determine, the only thing left in the PCV system is the oil separator. There were no PCV components in the valve cover or the air cleaner housing.

    My PS cap has that gasket / deflector on it. Mine is a hard plastic disk, but it is there.

    I'm kind of thinking the fluid on the rag joint and motor mount might've come from a PS fluid leak in the steering rack itself, but I haven't verified that yet. The PS pump exterior itself appears dry.
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 04-06-2013 at 12:17 PM.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  20. #95
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Removed the alternator, distributor cap, rotor, and power steering pump to check for that pesky oil leak. It looks like I have oil dripping down onto the oil filter. The paint is worn off of the surface facing the front of the car.

    Pulled the valve cover to check the cam lobs. Everything looked good and shiny with no flat spots. I rotated the engine by hand. I could see the valvetrain working as it should. To my surprise, I could hear the air being sucked into the cylinders on the intake stroke.

    I have a broken valve cover hold-down bolt, but no EZ-Out. I'm not sure if my Fel-Pro gasket failed me or it tore when I removed the valve cover, but I have oil build-up on the rear edge of the valve cover again.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
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  21. #96
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Ah hah! Did some clean-up in the garage today. I found my extractor kit. I have a roast on the BBQ right now. I'll try to remove that broken valve cover bolt tomorrow before I go to my Algebra study group.

    Still haven't found that other oil leak. This broken bolt is on the passenger side of the car. I don't think this is "THE" oil leak I'm looking for, but hopefully this will fix "one more" oil leak. That'll make it one less oil leak I have to deal with.

    I'm so glad I bought that set of gaskets from another member. Looks like I'm gonna need the valve cover gasket sooner than I planned. I still want to get that rubber gasket with the thin metal incorporated into the rubber, sealing surface.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
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  22. #97

    Default Check the Fuel Pump

    I had a 86 Mustang with the 2.3 liter engine. The diaphragm inside the fuel pump failed and caused oil to leak on the ground and under the car.

    Check this first. Also put in a Oil dye after you clean it. Then use a UV light to confirm the leak.

    Good Luck

  23. #98
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    I was able to extract the broken valve cover bolt. I broke the drill bit in the process.

    Installed a new valve cover gasket, so that leak is fixed, AGAIN!

    Reinstalled the PS pump and alternator. Started her up to verify no leaks at the valve cover gasket.

    The 8K tach isn't working. I think I read somewhere that a resistor was needed to make it work in place of a 6K tach. I'll have to look for that thread.

    Coolant temp gauge isn't working either. Not sure about the fuel level gauge, but the oil pressure gauge works fine. Haven't taken her on the street yet, so IDK if the speedometer works properly. I may need to locate a new printed circuit. I don't think the printed circuit from the donor ('81, I think) will work, but at this point, it might be worth a try.

    Found the threads related to making an 8K tach work when swapping for a 6K tach. Unfortunately, that conversion was from 4-cyl to 8-cyl. I'm doing 4-cyl to 4-cyl, so why isn't the 8K tach working? Maybe I do need the printed circuit from the donor vehicle. I'll be pulling the instrument cluster again.

    BTW, with the PS pump and alternator out of the way, I was able to see the oil/water separator. It was clean and dry.

    I'm beginning to think the EGR valve may be causing a problem. I don't have any vacuum lines connected to it and it is currently capped at the vacuum diaphragm nipple. The hard line is still connected to the bottom of the EGR and the OEM exhaust manifold. I should be able to remove the EGR and hard line to the exhaust manifold, right?

    I'm also noticing a bit of oil at the base of the dipstick tube that wasn't there before. I wonder if checking the dipstick for a leak has caused a leak.
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 04-25-2013 at 11:16 AM.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  24. #99
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    The 8K tach has magically fixed itself. I started the engine yesterday to start troubleshooting the electrical stuff, and shazam, it worked.

    I counted that as a testament to my electrical troubleshooting skills, went inside out of the heat, and watched a movie. Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
    2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
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    The Four-Eyed Game - 2018 Version

  25. #100
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Added some coolant. Reconnected the battery and fired her up. I ran the engine at idle (after warm-up) for 10 minutes. No signs of any leaks. Drove to the gas station and put in a few gallons. The rag joint is wet again. I'm beginning to think the leak might be the power steering system, but I can't tell for sure.

    I noticed some coolant seeping out of the weep hole in the firewall. I think I'm gonna need a new heater core soon. That'll be a different thread.

    I did notice a drop or two of oil near the oil drain plug, so I'll need to address that. To the best I can figure out, I "believe" I've corrected all of the previous oil leaks. I'll need to get the exhaust done before I can take a drive for long enough to determine if I'm still losing oil or not, but I think I've made some progress.

    Time to consider rebuilding the head (cam kit - Crane Cams 268H cam and stuff looks pretty good) and engine.
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 06-10-2014 at 01:11 AM.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
    2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
    Buyer/Seller Experience Link
    Build Thread
    The Four-Eyed Game - 2018 Version

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