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  1. #101
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Well, I'm not seeing any oil leaks. I do have a coolant leak, but that is due to bypassing the heater core using the OEM hoses with Prestone Flush-and-Fill kit T-fitting installed. Those hoses don't like being bent around the wrong way. Ran the engine long enough to warm up the coolant. Even took a 0.2-mile trip up and down the street today. Didn't see any leaks and the rag joint area was nice and dry after the trip and while the engine was running.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
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  2. #102
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    Glad to hear you got your oil leak fixed.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
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  3. #103
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Thanks. It wasn't much of a drive, but she was idling a long time before the short drive on the street. When I take her to the Chevron 0.7 miles from the house, the rag joint and bracket are completely wet with fluid. I'm not losing PS fluid and there was no fluid on those items this time, so I'm counting it as a "Win" until next year. I grabbed the car cover from the storage unit and put it on her today. She's all warm and cozy for the colder weather that's sure to be here soon.
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 06-10-2014 at 01:13 AM.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  4. #104
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    I FOUND IT! I FOUND IT! I FOUND IT! I removed the car cover, checked all the fluids, added coolant, installed a new "modified" STP air filter, hooked up the battery, started her up, and let her idle for about 20 minutes. The mysterious leak soaking the rag joint is a leaking, screw-in fuel filter on my carburetor. I planned on rebuilding the carburetor anyway, so I think that takes care of my leak issues.

    Time to start planning to rebuild the head and carburetor, and replace the heater core. Then comes the fun stuff.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  5. #105
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Congrads!
    I removed that carb mounted filter long ago.
    A barbed brass fitting has been on the carb in its place for years.
    Fuel filtering is done by a plastic Fram see thru inline fuel filter.
    Not as pretty, but neither is a fuel leak.

    Was too tricky of a job to get the factory filter tightened just right due to the fine threads.
    Was very easy to strip the threads right out on my oem carb.
    Since then, all replacement carbs get the brass fitting mod right out of the box.

  6. #106
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Is this a specific brass fitting? Or can I match one to the screw-in fuel filter by taking it to Lowe's, Home Depot, NAPA, or AutoZone on my next trip? I'd like to add an inline fuel pressure regulator/gauge for tuning purposes.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  7. #107
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    I got the fitting at an chain auto parts store.
    They have more of the brass type in sizes used in automotive.
    One of those hanging carded packs.
    My notes say 1/8" x 5/16"
    It is a turbo carb. N/a prob is the same size wise at the carb end. Fuel line size may be different (smaller id).
    Did not record the part number. Is a common stocked item.
    Match the fitting's carb end to tapped inlet size, threads, on the carb and barb end to fuel hose ID.

    Adding tees, filters, is easy using an extended piece of rubber fuel line, connecting the carb barb to the hard line from the tank.
    Plain spring clamps like the ones that come with fuel filters work fine.
    Good hardware stores stock them (color coded as to dia).
    I did use a little pipe tape (yellow) on the threaded end.

  8. #108
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
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  9. #109
    FEP Supporter 82GTforME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    I got the fitting at an chain auto parts store.
    They have more of the brass type in sizes used in automotive.
    One of those hanging carded packs.
    My notes say 1/8" x 5/16"
    These types are readily available. I just put a replacement filter (Motorcraft) on the 2150 2BBL I just rebuilt and it was 1/8" NPT. I cannot verify the ID of the hose that came with it off hand. Always be careful tightening in NPT (especially the smaller sizes), it is very easy to bury them. In a low pressure application, it is typically not too much to worry about but another consideration about over-tightening tapered threads into cast or aluminum is that you can crack the material.

    I think you will be able to find these types of fittings quite easily (and locally even)! http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...9028/overview/

  10. #110
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Yup that is what it looks like.
    Mine is slightly diff, non the less same deal.
    http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-26089-43279.aspx

    I agree with the cautions.
    Good reminder about the low pressure.
    It's not a home water line!
    Prob could hand tighten and wrench it a tiny bit if it seeps.
    Last edited by gr79; 06-18-2014 at 03:32 AM.

  11. #111
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Good advice. Thanks for the links, too. I need to find the list number on the carb to order a rebuild kit. Haven't been able to find it yet. The wife is having her German Club friends over this weekend. I'll wait until next week to pull the carb because I have to move the Mustang and the travel trailer from the side of the house for the party.

    Should I be able to see the list number with the carb installed? Or is it on the side closer to the engine or firewall?
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  12. #112
    FEP Supporter 82GTforME's Avatar
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    I bought my stuff through The Carburetor Doctor. Comes with a manual download etc. I ended up getting a float and choke assembly and it was around $150 iirc.

    http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/c...Ford/Ford4.htm

    Looks like all of the 5200C are the same for kits and two potential floats on that page:
    http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/kits/CK181.htm

    Two different floats:
    http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/floats/f02.htm
    http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/floats/f38.htm

    Manual:
    http://www.carbkitsource.com/manuals...als/CM080.html
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 06-18-2014 at 05:20 PM.

  13. #113
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Thanks for those links, Darran. Can you or anyone else tell me if my carb ID tag says "D9AE ADA" or "D9BE ADA" or something different? I'm not finding a kit for "D9AE ADA" and the "A" in "ADA" looks different than the letter in the third digit of the first group.



    Does it matter which floats I use? Between the two, I'd prefer the "metal" floats over the "plastic" floats. Did you spend $150 on parts to rebuild your carb?
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 06-18-2014 at 06:02 PM.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  14. #114
    FEP Supporter 82GTforME's Avatar
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    Check out the Motorcraft page on that site and you can search by part number. I seacrched -ADA and came up with D9BE-ADA as the probable one.

    http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/n...1977-1979.html

    For my costs I added the float, electric choke and choke pull off. I didnt use the choke and could have not used the replacement float as mine looked good still. Of course I ordered before looking. Oh, wait, I paid in Canadian dollars and had to get charged 5% tax too. Might not add up to much for you Craig.

  15. #115
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Well, I figured if I was going to the carb opened up anyway, I might as well be prepared to replace everything. I'd hate to get it all back together and have the floats develop a hole. That's another nice thing about Idaho...no internet sales tax, yet. You should come down for a visit some day, Darran. Bring a trailer, we'll get you loaded up with spare parts.

    Edit:
    The picture shows a choke pull-off in the kit. Isn't the choke pull-off included in the kit?
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 06-18-2014 at 11:25 PM.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  16. #116
    FEP Supporter 82GTforME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IDMooseMan View Post
    The picture shows a choke pull-off in the kit. Isn't the choke pull-off included in the kit?
    Lucky you if it is in the kit. The choke pull off for the 2150 was separate and another $30. (http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/vacbreak/VB055.htm) I had to pay GST tax here as the goosd came from Canada to Canada. No different if you bought from an internet business in Idaho, you may have to pay for state sales tax as the goods are staying in the state.

    A visit? Maybe one day. I don't get out much right now, my summer vacation is a stay-cation this year to work on the yard and cars

  17. #117
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    I forgot you had the 2150, and I understand about the stay-cation to catch up on chores. Susi is having her Kaffee Klatsch crew over this weekend, so I won't start working on the Mustang until next week.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  18. #118
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    The 79 Ford Car Performance Specifications Book lists a (-9510-) D9BE-ADA
    2.3 (139 CID) Holley Model 5200 carb.
    For 2.3 engines, 79 book lists D9BE-xxx, D9EE-xxx, D9ZE-xxx tags

    For comparison, numbers for D9BE-ADA and (79 turbo carb tag D9ZE-MD/ND).
    Some parts/settings are the same for n/a and turbo carbs. Carb castings are slightly different.

    Sizes, settings, and removable, mostly internal, factory number stamped parts that calibrate a carb to the engine:
    throttle bore P=32mm; S=36mm (all)
    venturi dia P=22mm; S=27mm (turbo carb: 26mm/27mm)
    float setting +- .1/32= .41-.51 (all)
    idle jet primary (tube)=.60mm; sec=.50 (turbo: .50ccm/.50mm)
    main jet P=171 S=203 (turbo: 263/275 or 259/283 with a/c)
    main well tube P=14R 905 S=14R 1004 (turbo: 14R 974 P+S)
    HiSpeed bleed P=1.95mm; S=1.70mm (turbo: 1.85mm/1.95mm)
    power valve timing= (in hg) 8.5 (all)
    acc pump lever loc #2 (turbo: #3 bottom)
    Last edited by gr79; 06-20-2014 at 04:05 AM.

  19. #119
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    The 79 Ford Car Performance Specifications Book lists a (-9510-) D9BE-ADA
    2.3 (139 CID) Holley Model 5200 carb.
    For 2.3 engines, 79 book lists D9BE-xxx, D9EE-xxx, D9ZE-xxx tags

    For comparison, numbers for D9BE-ADA and (79 turbo carb tag D9ZE-MD/ND).
    Some parts/settings are the same for n/a and turbo carbs. Carb castings are slightly different.

    Sizes, settings, and removable, mostly internal, factory number stamped parts that calibrate a carb to the engine:
    throttle bore P=32mm; S=36mm (all)
    venturi dia P=22mm; S=27mm (turbo carb: 26mm/27mm)
    float setting +- .1/32= .41-.51 (all)
    idle jet primary (tube)=.60mm; sec=.50 (turbo: .50ccm/.50mm)
    main jet P=171 S=203 (turbo: 263/275 or 259/283 with a/c)
    main well tube P=14R 905 S=14R 1004 (turbo: 14R 974 P+S)
    HiSpeed bleed P=1.95mm; S=1.70mm (turbo: 1.85mm/1.95mm)
    power valve timing= (in hg) 8.5 (all)
    acc pump lever loc #2 (turbo: #3 bottom)
    Awesome info! So is the "(-9510-)" the list number I need to order the correct rebuild kit? Or is the tag number enough info? I'd like to buy a Holley rebuild kit, but AutoZone had some kit manufacturer I haven't heard of and have no prior experience.

    Where should I look for a Holley rebuild kit? I'm just about ready to go crazy on eBay and start ordering parts. Does anyone remember the ARP Fastener Kits from back in the day? Are those still available somewhere? I asked the AutoZone parts guy about them, and his eyes kind of glazed over.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  20. #120
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    The -9510- is a base number group Ford uses.
    May find a NOS Holley pep kit for it.
    Standard, BW, NAPA, others, make kits.
    Gaskets, needle/seat, etc. Prob the same parts source.
    Felpro prob still lists gaskets.
    Float adjustment is different for more buoyant brass.
    Cheap kits may include cheaply made floats and needle/seat. Viton is the good one.
    Seam and seamless. Brass, Nitrophyl, Duracon hollow plastic.
    More modern black solid NITROPHYL® floats are widely used in other than automotive.
    It kind of is form molded for the bowl and may be a bit more accurate.
    Brass has advantages but can suddenly sink too.
    Fuel chemicals wear any of them out eventually.
    What type is used in fuel sender units?
    Most all fuel tanks are now plastic, not metal. Why?
    Last edited by gr79; 06-21-2014 at 03:48 AM.

  21. #121
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    The American made Holley Webers were also made in 5200/5210/5220/6500/6510 and 6520 variants in Ford, GM ,Chrysler and AMC's.

    Along with the jets, the whole call number system for jets and well tubes was changed to suit the mid 70's emissions changes.

    The well tubes are stamped 4, 5 or 74, for 14R 1004, 14R 1005, and 14R 974 respectively.

    For the Turbo well tubes, some 77-79 AMC's used the VW Audi light truck engine LT OHV 1986 cc engine. It was the what the Porsche 924 OHC engine is based on. The AMC variant used the 14R 974 well tube/emulsion tubes in the secondary barrels of its 5210C Holley Weber. The primary is 14R 975

    http://www.3geez.com/forum/carbureto...her-model.html

    The interchange between Weber 61444.216 series Emulsion tubes and Holley Weber 14 R XXXX Well tubes are the not around, but if you whip them out and measure them, they can be duplicated, and probably already exist in the Weber catalog.


    I can help out if you need a source, since people on the Jeep Forum have been easily able to re-profile them.

  22. #122
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Excellent info, guys, thank you. I found three possible sources in my area for Holley rebuild kits. Hopefully, I'll be able to pull the carb next week. I'll take it with me when I talk to the shops. Most would have to order the kit or transfer the kit from another store.

    I plan to remove the screw-in fuel filter and install a hose-barb fitting. I want to install a small fuel pressure gauge downstream from an inline fuel filter when I do the rebuild. I need to see what options are available. Preferably, the fuel pressure gauge would screw into the carb body, then I'd screw in a fuel filter to the gauge, and attach the fuel line to fuel filter inlet.

    I'll add a picture or two if I can find the components to do that setup. If anyone knows what gauge and filter combo will do this, please let me know.

    Gotta move the trailer now. Enjoy your weekend.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  23. #123
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Well, crap! Took the Ghia for a short drive today to complete challenge in The Four-Eyed Game - 2014 Version. Come out and play. The rag joint is soaked again. This leak is driving me crazy. I'm going to drive around to see if I can get a good soaking of the joint and try to trace it back to the source. Time for that leak-detecting dye kit from Harbor Freight. I hope they still have them available.
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 07-03-2014 at 07:22 PM.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  24. #124
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Messed with the carburetor again. Adjusted the fuel mixture screw all the way in to test if the engine would die. It did not, so I think that means the power valve is bad. On top of that, my fuel leak returned. The screw-in fuel filter is leaking at the body housing near the carburetor. So, I need a new fuel filter and fuel hose, too.

    I think I'm going try adding a fuel pressure gauge at the same time I replace the fuel filter.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  25. #125

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    I know this thread is quite old, but I have the same type of leak on my 2.3l carbed-turbo. The one place that no one has mentioned is the cam seal, behind the cam sprocket. I replaced my cam and while I was in there, I replaced the cam seal too. When I put it all back together, with a blue Felpro gasket, the leaks started. I've narrowed my leak down to either the valve cover, where the it transitions from the flat edge to the curve over the cam,, or the cam seal. My leak sounds a lot like IDMooseMan's

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