The harbor freight jacks aren't bad. I wont buy stuff like sockets there but I bought a racing Jack there at least 7 years ago and have used it a ton with all the work I do on cars. It still works. Not as well as it used to. But it works.
The harbor freight jacks aren't bad. I wont buy stuff like sockets there but I bought a racing Jack there at least 7 years ago and have used it a ton with all the work I do on cars. It still works. Not as well as it used to. But it works.
2013 Focus ST3 2.0 turbo 6 speed
85 LTD, 90k miles, 3.8/c5,For sale... Or restomod if it doesn't sell
87 Conquest TSI widebody 2.6 Turbo/5speed, also maybe for sale
94 Tempo 3.0v6/5speed 92 GLS clone project
90 gmc sierra 2wd short box. 73k showroom condition, fender flares, 31" BFG All terrain. 350ci 4.10 gear
I received an email from Harbour Freight today with a 25% off coupon good for use only on April 8th. That would make the price on this jack $97.49 plus tax. An excellent deal!!Originally Posted by Capriman86
I buy a few HF things now and again. Specially for race track tools.
"racing jack" Why is it a racing jack? Lol
85 SVO
94 GT CMC#71
65 Fastback
Because of the low profile and quick pump.
Plus:
side grab handles to swing/carry it
wide steamroller front wheel
much lighter overall weight
past owned daily driven many memorable times with all
1967 Mustang 'verti Sports Sprint 289 Holley 4vC4 2.79 lime gold blk vinyl (6/70-4/73) 100k
1970 VW 113 Beetle modded 1650 5200 2v 4sp Hurst 4.13 grn blk leathette (1973-1977) 200k
1975 VW 1303 S Beetle LaGrande 1600 EFI 4sp Hurst 3.88 lime grn tan cloth (1977-1980) 90k
1985 LTD LX 5.0 CFI HO AOD 3.27 gray gray (1987-1990) 75k
1986 Ranger XL 2wd 7' bed 114 wb 2.3 EFI 5 sp 3.45 gray burgundy cloth (1990-1994) 180k
current owned now weekly driven totally enjoyed
1979 Mustang Cobra 61R 2.3T Holley 2305 2v '92 T5 Hurst 3.45 black orange decals (7/80- )
1993 Ranger XLT R103 2wd 7' bed 114 wb 2.3 EFI 5sp Hurst 3.45 calypso green gray (3/94- )
To bring this back on topic...
This is a SN95 rocker but if you look inside the rocker you can see a metal strip that is in the center. This is part of the jack point. With the exception of the rear jack point, the rocker is hollow, that is why you want to use the jack only in the designated areas.
You may think so, after bringing your car into a "Pro" garage. Many pros can't be bothered to take an extra two minutes to accurately line up the lift jacking points to the car jack points. They just swing out the lift arms to under the pinch welds and let er rip. They know 99 % of customers aren't going to lean down and check to see if the pinch welds are bent.
But nope. The weight of the car should not be on the pinch weld.
Take the manufacturers jack out of your trunk and hold it up against the the pinch weld/rocker panel area where it would normally contact the car when you are jacking the car. You will see the bottom edge of the pinch weld is NOT contacting the bottom of the slot in the jack.
In other words, the weight of the car rests on the flat part of the jack, just behind the pinch weld.
I've jacked a lot of cars, and every car (Asian or American) that I've seen is the same. Now BMW's are another story...
They make skates designed specifically to set a car on the pinch welds to move them around when theres no suspesion on the car.
What I did on my 86 was weld 1/4"x2" plates with a 1/2"x13 threaded hole in the center to the front frame rails just before they curve up to the firewall.
When I need to jack it up I just thread in the 1/2 bolt and contact that with the jack pad, it never touches the frame rail. I also painted the pads to match the color of the car because I'm anal about that stuff and the car has very low mileage. You can tell by looking at my avatar.
The Full Length Subframe Connectors such as the ones sold by MM, not only make jacking up the car easier, but it stops the frame rails from getting dented up. I don't know how many times I have seen the frame rails damaged by someone jacking up the car wrong.
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