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  1. #1

    Default STRUT TOWER BRACE OPTIONS

    I did a search and found one thread with a part number listed by "GR79" but no pictures. Does anyone run a strut tower brace and have pictures of it? I have a T top car and I already have MM subframe connectors but wondered if you can still get a strut tower brace that clears the 2.3T?

    I searched at Steeda, Maximum Motorsports and Kenny Brown.



    Thanks
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

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    July 7, 1775

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    FEP Super Member bkoons85gt's Avatar
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    Not sure about a 2.3, but here is my MM brace
    ~Bryan

    1985 Mustang GT w/ T-Tops, Original Paint, 160,XXX miles
    Mods: 600cfm Carb, Underdrive Pulleys, Subframe Connectors, 4pt G-Load Brace, MM Strut Tower brace, 8.8 rear w/ 3.55 gears & LCA's

    Pics from production of "The Saleen Book"
    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...&id=1027847075

    http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/select1271.htm

  3. #3

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    See that wiring and vacuum line channel thing that is mounted above the firewall flange on the 2.3T? I just don't think it would work.
    I think it would clear the engine but I can't see how it could mount back there.








    Last edited by homer302; 04-01-2012 at 03:25 PM.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

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    FEP Super Member bkoons85gt's Avatar
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    yeah, that piece is covering the holes on the pinch welds of the firewall where the brace is mounted
    ~Bryan

    1985 Mustang GT w/ T-Tops, Original Paint, 160,XXX miles
    Mods: 600cfm Carb, Underdrive Pulleys, Subframe Connectors, 4pt G-Load Brace, MM Strut Tower brace, 8.8 rear w/ 3.55 gears & LCA's

    Pics from production of "The Saleen Book"
    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...&id=1027847075

    http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/select1271.htm

  5. #5

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    Why bother? It's not like a Mustang is a great handling car. From what I've read the positive effects of a STB on a Fox body are limited anyway. I'd spend the money on something more beneficial.
    1986 Mustang Notch, 2.3L Turbo Project

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy2.3Mustang View Post
    Why bother? It's not like a Mustang is a great handling car. From what I've read the positive effects of a STB on a Fox body are limited anyway. I'd spend the money on something more beneficial.
    Fair enough. I would prefer to have one. It has been proven that stock (NON T top) Foxbody Strut towers can flex 1/4 inch during cornering. I am sure a T top would be far worse and that can't be good for sheetmetal. In fact, that is probably why the floorpans are so prone to cracking. Cause they are flexed back and forth every time you drive the car like a piece of thin metal you are flexing back and forth until it breaks. Same concept.

    I can't think of a $150 part that is more beneficial.

    So That is why bother for me.

    Does that mean I am right? Maybe, maybe not. Who knows?

    EDIT: I also agree that a Fox is certainly NOT a good handling car. Not sure why you wouldn't want to make it handle as good as it can, but I agree with you there.
    Last edited by homer302; 04-01-2012 at 05:18 PM.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

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  7. #7
    FEP Super Member escogt's Avatar
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    I have always felt that my MM strut tower brace was a positive mod to my GT. The car just feels tighter. Looks good, easy install, not expensive... why wouldn't anyone install one?
    '85GT Bright Atlantic Blue
    '92LX Bimini Blue-sold
    '93 COBRA Teal Metallic-sold
    '86SVO Oxford White-sold
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  8. #8

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    I just don't buy into the benefits of a strut tower brace. Most are there simply because they're relatively cheap bling that is visible at car shows and cruise nights. I've yet to hear anyone say "wow, get a STB, it's the best mod I ever did to my car". In fact I've heard exactly the opposite on several occasions.

    I've improved the handling of my Mustang by swapping in large V8 sway bars, the 15:1 steering rack, a handful of poly bushings, and of course wheels/tires. I just can't see spending a grip of $$$ trying to improve the handling. It's going to handle poorly regardless. It'd be like trying to train a chicken to bark like a dog... At the end of the day even if it's successful, it's still not a dog.
    1986 Mustang Notch, 2.3L Turbo Project

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    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default Ford strut tower brace installed pics

    Main reason its there i want to keep the chassis as strong as possible.
    No way is it ever going to be removed except for engine pull, etc..













    Last edited by gr79; 04-01-2012 at 06:26 PM.

  10. #10

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    THANKS!

    Unfortunately, the last picture shows that there is no way this brace will work with an EFI 2.3T. Clearly we see that it works with the carb version but if you study it for a minute, you see that the driver's side bar run right across where the SVO/2.3T cast aluminum intake is. No way it will work. I would not even need to buy it and see.
    Follow my first picture and this last one from the strut tower and you will see quickly.


    Thanks though. At least we know!
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member cipher's Avatar
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    A two point mounting brace may acctually work. I had one on my old 86 gt. I still have it in the corner but with my 2.3t half pulled out of my car i have know way of knowing if it would work. I still think it would be tight over the valve cover.

    Mike J.
    80 Capri RS turbo(svo in capri clothing)
    86 SVO
    "Doh, Why do my actions have consequences?"

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member bkoons85gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy2.3Mustang View Post
    I just don't buy into the benefits of a strut tower brace. Most are there simply because they're relatively cheap bling that is visible at car shows and cruise nights. I've yet to hear anyone say "wow, get a STB, it's the best mod I ever did to my car". In fact I've heard exactly the opposite on several occasions.

    I've improved the handling of my Mustang by swapping in large V8 sway bars, the 15:1 steering rack, a handful of poly bushings, and of course wheels/tires. I just can't see spending a grip of $$$ trying to improve the handling. It's going to handle poorly regardless. It'd be like trying to train a chicken to bark like a dog... At the end of the day even if it's successful, it's still not a dog.
    The difference in stiffness before and after installation was enough for me to be convinced that there is a benefit. I am sure ESCO would agree.

    Have you ever driven a car with before and after installation of a strut brace?

    Granted I agree there are other things can be done to improve the handling. This is usually the first step most people take as it is affordable and easy to install. The other mods come later
    ~Bryan

    1985 Mustang GT w/ T-Tops, Original Paint, 160,XXX miles
    Mods: 600cfm Carb, Underdrive Pulleys, Subframe Connectors, 4pt G-Load Brace, MM Strut Tower brace, 8.8 rear w/ 3.55 gears & LCA's

    Pics from production of "The Saleen Book"
    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...&id=1027847075

    http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/select1271.htm

  13. #13
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Main reason its there i want to keep the chassis as strong as possible.
    No way is it ever going to be removed except for engine pull, etc..













    Not meaning to be rude, but the strut tower brace in the photos doesn't provide much in the way of improvement. The braces that bolt to the upper cowl panel as this one does provide little if any bracing. The cowl panel is not where you want to brace the shock towers to. The single piece of metal will not provide any resistance to movement. If you look at the MM STB it bolts to the holes in the firewall/cowl pinch weld. There are actually 3 or 4 pieces of sheetmetal that are all welded there and that makes this area extremely strong and resistant to movement.

    As for the benefits of the STB, I too believe it adds a benefit to any Mustang. Although I will say that convertible and t-top owns seem to notice the benefits most. Generally verts/t-top cars notice a reduction or elimination of cowl shake with the installation of a STB. As with all Mustangs a set of subframe connectors would be my first choice and then a K member brace, and then STB.

    Good Luck!

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
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  14. #14
    FEP Senior Member cipher's Avatar
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    Hers a pic of the one i have when it was on my hardtop 86 gt. I live in the country and there was a marked inprovement in my car while spirited driving.

    Mike J.

    80 Capri RS turbo(svo in capri clothing)
    86 SVO
    "Doh, Why do my actions have consequences?"

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    For the record, the brace pictured in my post is Ford Racing M-20201-A50 Strut Tower Braces.

    "Not meaning to be rude, but the strut tower brace in the photos doesn't provide much in the way of improvement."

    Yah the cowl metal there is easy to cut or drill thru.
    That is the spot on the cowl Ford instructions says it goes.
    Kind of like a universal fit. They say for all 79-93.
    After major air filter housing mod in this case.

    Must not be much going on back there (good) or it would have showed long ago.
    A thick backing plate prob wouldn't hurt. None came with it which i thought strange.
    On washboard dirt or ridged/grooved pavement, seems to transmit low speed road vibration to the cowl.
    Like a tire hum but tinny sounding.
    Prob the dash assy vibrating, not shaking anymore.

    Is nice to rest on when working and provides something to zip tie wires, hoses.

    The ratcheting oil fill cap (later style 2.3 rocker cover) is almost right under it.
    A wide neck oil fill funnel still fits in there upright no problem but its tight.

  16. #16

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    They will fit a 2.3 JUST FINE. Below is my TBird, but the engine bay is the same.
    (older pic before I plumbed in the IC)

    (after the IC)


    For reference, this is the old Kenny Brown 87-93 5.0 EFI STB.

    I've been running STBs on my 2.3T's for years, and the only clearance issue would be one of the TC intercoolers. SOMETIMES they will clear an SVO one, but you'll have to check and see. Unless you're trying to stay "original", you'll want to run a front-mount IC anyway.

    My 84 Cougar XR-7 had that plastic hose, wiring raceway on the firewall. I just modded it to fit around the STB, which is what you can do IF you HAVE to keep it on.

    The STB does make a difference in chassis stiffness, as does a lower chassis brace. To allow the suspension to ACTUALLY do its job, you need a stiff chassis. I've cracked windshields on Foxes that I've not taken my own advice and did the suspension work before I got the chassis stuff installed. The Fox suspension is FAR from ideal, and it's worse when the chassis is flexing all over the place.

    Yes, mine is an older type that mounts to the sheetmetal at the firewall. I've had it for a long, long time, and that is how they were being done. If I was buying another, I'd go for one of the MM ones.
    Last edited by Chuck W; 04-02-2012 at 07:31 AM.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS
    86 LTD Wagon

  17. #17
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    For the record, the brace pictured in my post is Ford Racing M-20201-A50 Strut Tower Braces.

    "Not meaning to be rude, but the strut tower brace in the photos doesn't provide much in the way of improvement."

    Yah the cowl metal there is easy to cut or drill thru.
    That is the spot on the cowl Ford instructions says it goes.
    Kind of like a universal fit. They say for all 79-93.
    After major air filter housing mod in this case.

    Must not be much going on back there (good) or it would have showed long ago.
    A thick backing plate prob wouldn't hurt. None came with it which i thought strange.
    On washboard dirt or ridged/grooved pavement, seems to transmit low speed road vibration to the cowl.
    Like a tire hum but tinny sounding.
    Prob the dash assy vibrating, not shaking anymore.

    Is nice to rest on when working and provides something to zip tie wires, hoses.

    The ratcheting oil fill cap (later style 2.3 rocker cover) is almost right under it.
    A wide neck oil fill funnel still fits in there upright no problem but its tight.
    I wasn't trying to put down your STB. I understand that Ford, MAC, Kenny Brown, and others sold that style for many years. Unfortunately it is a flawed design IMHO. If someone is going to spend the money on a STB, then IMHO they should get the best improvement for their money. That was the purpose of my post.

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  18. #18
    FEP User 86svo's Avatar
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    Maybe you can look into the lower kmember brace that came on 90ish fox comvertables.

    Tim

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    FEP Super Member SVT Rob's Avatar
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    I've got the MM EFI brace on mine. Yes, mine is still a 5.0L, but I don't see why this won't clear your setup. It does mount to the pinch welds, and you should be able to move the vacuum lines/tree around, to get access to the area, then remount it back in it's original location. Similar to the one that bkoons posted above, but not designed to clear the dual snorkel air cleaner:

    before cleaning the engine bay:


    after cleaning the engine bay:

  20. #20
    FEP Super Member escogt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkoons85gt View Post
    The difference in stiffness before and after installation was enough for me to be convinced that there is a benefit. I am sure ESCO would agree.
    For sure Bry. I definitely felt a sigificant difference once it was installed. The MM piece is the best hands down.
    '85GT Bright Atlantic Blue
    '92LX Bimini Blue-sold
    '93 COBRA Teal Metallic-sold
    '86SVO Oxford White-sold
    '86GT 'Vert True Blue-sold
    '81'GT' Medium Red-sold

  21. #21

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    I know on my convertible, a STB took the cowl shake out. We've purchased a 5.0 STB for my son's 84 GT Turbo. We haven't installed it yet, but we did place where it is supposed to mount and it is going to clear everything. We will have to modify the plastic cover over the vacuum lines, etc that run along the firewall just above the pinch weld.

  22. #22
    FEP Power Member RichV's Avatar
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    I dunno how you guys are measuring these stiffness differences. I gotta say these things are bling on a street car. Track car, probably a little difference at the limit of driving with r-comp tires. But I have failed to see a difference with or without one on track. They do look cool when the hood is up and a sweet place for some stickers.

    Lower brace is definitely worth it for handling. But spirited driving or going to Burger King does not necessitate either. IMO of course.
    85 SVO
    94 GT CMC#71
    65 Fastback

  23. #23
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I wasn't trying to put down your STB.

    Trey
    Nah, never took it that way at all.
    I agree with you guys with the pinch weld mount ones. Looks stronger yet.
    Had to look closer at the pics to see what went where.
    Heck, looks like one can add some tubing from the tower area, even tying into the existing brace, to attach there.

    The main purpose i add k-member area braces, stb, sub frame connectors, seat braces, is to minimize metal fatigue and maximize safety on a 37 year old 300,000 mile chassis.
    Has seen many potholes, rr track crossings, road hazards from from hell and out of nowhere.

    I feel, right or wrong, they do help in whatever way they do for the cost (value).
    Car feels much more solid, and at times, sounds more solid too.

    Am afraid to over do it. Something that would directly or indirectly cause the end of the line for it.

  24. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy2.3Mustang View Post
    I've improved the handling of my Mustang by swapping in large V8 sway bars, the 15:1 steering rack, a handful of poly bushings, and of course wheels/tires. I just can't see spending a grip of $$$ trying to improve the handling. It's going to handle poorly regardless. It'd be like trying to train a chicken to bark like a dog... At the end of the day even if it's successful, it's still not a dog.
    come back when you've driven a mustang with a torque arm and panhard bar and you won't say that

  25. #25
    FEP Power Member RichV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy2.3Mustang View Post
    I just don't buy into the benefits of a strut tower brace. Most are there simply because they're relatively cheap bling that is visible at car shows and cruise nights. I've yet to hear anyone say "wow, get a STB, it's the best mod I ever did to my car". In fact I've heard exactly the opposite on several occasions.

    I've improved the handling of my Mustang by swapping in large V8 sway bars, the 15:1 steering rack, a handful of poly bushings, and of course wheels/tires. I just can't see spending a grip of $$$ trying to improve the handling. It's going to handle poorly regardless. It'd be like trying to train a chicken to bark like a dog... At the end of the day even if it's successful, it's still not a dog.
    I agree with you on the STB. But making a Mustang handle well is not impossible, nor very hard to do. 2 things to address:
    1. Chassis stiffness, install subframes, welded. This should suffice.
    2. Tire contact, shocks/springs/wide soft compound tires.

    The swaybars, poly bushings, chassis braces, loosing weight, corner balancing, etc. is just a bonus. Then you can put your big-boy pants on and do a PHB, TA, SLA, coilovers, all sorts of big ticket items. Again, no reason on the street, but a track car will benefit largely from any of those. Then the Porsche and BMW boys are like:


    That's the best part. Last year with my 89 we were doing some practice drills and practice starts for the rookies that were getting licensed for NASA. We also did a whole race, I started at the back of the pack, rookies were up front. I battled through the 15+ car group with a few of the other guys, one was a 911. We broke away from the group and it was ON! I finaly got around him and was able to stay infront of him for about 3-4 laps. The realized we were so far from the practice race I let off the throttle to wait for the group. I bet he was like WTF! lol

    You can see #71 in the back of the pack: http://action.zenfolio.com/p61187780...c654#h340ac654

    And it's on!
    http://action.zenfolio.com/p611877802/h6d61d6f#h6d61d6f

    RIP #71. Fun times.
    85 SVO
    94 GT CMC#71
    65 Fastback

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