I bought a late Explorer intake, non egr style. There is no boss for taping the ACT sensor in this intake:
Can I just put it in the air tube? Its gonna be SD, it has a tfs stage one cam and E7 heads.
Explorer intake and ACT sensor
I bought a late Explorer intake, non egr style. There is no boss for taping the ACT sensor in this intake:
Can I just put it in the air tube? Its gonna be SD, it has a tfs stage one cam and E7 heads.
1979 capri, a mess, 86 efi
You could, but it would not give the PCM a true indication of the actual inlet air temp and that could lead to some trouble(too much timing).
It needs to be as close the cylinders as possible.
I have seen article where people have drilled and tapped the runner itself and installed the ACT.
Or you could drill and tap some aluminum pipe and weld it to the runner.
That might keep it from being an air restriction.
YOU CAN PUT IN THE INTAKE AIR TUBE WILL WORK FINE,I DID IT ON A 86 GT THAT I HAD WITH A GT40 SET WITH A F303 CAM AND VORTEC SUPERCHARGER WORKED FINE WITH IT THE EXPLORER HAD IT IN THE AIRTUBEOriginally Posted by mutantcapri1979
I bought a late Explorer intake, non egr style. There is no boss for taping the ACT sensor in this intake:
Can I just put it in the air tube? Its gonna be SD, it has a tfs stage one cam and E7 heads.
The explorers pcm was also programed to compensate for air temp gained before reaching the cylinder.
I assume the your 86 also was tuned accordingly with the act in the new location.
If the ACT was originally in the intake then he runs the risk of problems moving it to a potentially much colder location.
OP, good luck with your final decision.
Thanks for the replies. This pretty much the type of varying responses i have seen on this topic. The intake was a 100 bucks and it was already painted so couldn't pass. I also have to drill a hole in the throttle body for the oil breather line and swap the throttle linkage. I already got all the egr delete stuff from RJM.
That ACT sensor is huge, I saw a buddies gt40 intake with the ACT boss and was annoyed. I tried to get him to swap me the lower but no dice.
1979 capri, a mess, 86 efi
Relocate it to a more outof the way runner
I've drilled & tapped the newer Explorer intake runner 5(like the one you have) and screwed the sensor in. Never had a problem at all with it.
PS. Speed Density and the TF Stage 1 cam are not going to get along!
11 GT Black, A6,Steeda CAI, SCT X4, Circle D 4C
89LX Blk Hatch,363 Dart,C4,T76BB,FAST EFI
86 Black GT, 331 Dart, S-trim aftercooled, 4R70W
82 Carpi RS, 306, T5, 8.8 4.10's.
72 Demon 340 4-speed(one of 1667)
73 Dart Sport 340, 410ci, Indy 230cnc+, bracket brawler
01 Ram Quad Cab, 5.9L car hauler
02 Grizzley 660
03 Honda VTX 1800
The cam worked in the stock 86 engine with the SD. Worst comes to worse I have a stock 89 cam or I have mass air in the basement. I just need to make this intake usable. thanks
1979 capri, a mess, 86 efi
The 94 GT has the ACT in the intake tube. I don't think the air heats up in that 24" of travel.
I ran a e-cam with a SD setup for years. Does fine at WOT and slow driving. Mid throttle cruise could be an issue on a street car, mine was just a track car so it pretty much lived at WOT.
85 SVO
94 GT CMC#71
65 Fastback
I too have drilled and tapped just the runner like you have, no issues at all.
On my 2.3 turbo Mustang, the T-bird computer has the ACT sensor, but my 86 SVO engine does not, I just let the sensor hang front the harness in the engine bay (tied it up actually). No issues, no codes, runs great.
1986 CHP SSP Coupe
There's a company that makes an extension harness to move the act to the intake tube.
I drilled and tapped my #5 runner also, no big deal. Or just run it in the intake pipe.
Mike
1986 ASCMclaren #108
stock short block, Victor EFI, 75mm TB, 3.08's, Borla cat-back, slot style MAF conversion, Gt-40p heads, TFS1 cam, 80lb injectors, 69mm turbo, Moates Quaterhorse, E85. 501/584 @ the rear wheels
Besides not have the boss for the ACT I dont think those late manifolds have the boss at the right (passenger side) rear for the EGR water line. The early explorer manifold I have has both.
MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
EF: Im shootin' pool Fats. When I miss you can shoot.
Just zip-tie it up somewhere.
It was proven years and years ago that it really doesn't affect anything. It is not a major player in the EEC-IV effect on air-fuel ratio or timing. My car idles perfect with it tied up on the upper intake. I forgot where i zip-tied it. I just bought a cheap new one and zip tied it. Maybe on the fuel rail or etc, but it isn't a major player.
Same goes for the water temp sensor (ECT). Now if it is bad - it can effect idle or driveability, but a test years ago proved that when it was submerged in ice cold water - no HP gain was noticed which means it probably never really affected the timing curve at all....
Jason
What if it was dipped in 270 degree water?
Mike
Now stang-less.
88 Cougar 5.0
I think they tested the difference between hot and cold - and no difference. I forgot in most EEC tables what the tolerances were. I guess there is a value where if it breaks that value, it may pull a degree of timing or something similar.
But for average car running temp vs cold water, there was absolutely no difference.
Most of the afterket o"off the shelf" chips did exactly that. All they did was feed the EEC the proper resistance or voltage values from those two sensors where it would seem they were sitting in for example 40 degree water or 40 degree water temps in thinking it would make the car run a little richer or give it some kind of performance upgrade. You could do the same with resistors in-line that you could buy at radio shack for a little change.
There was another test YEARS ago which tested an ADS superchip (hypertech's competitor) at the time, where the chip basically added nothing to the mix. The ADS superchip was just a "piggy-back" between the harness and the EEC where it fed the EEC different values than what the wires in the harness were actually sending. A $200 chip that you could do yourself with $0.75 cents with of resistors....
Before i learned enough about the EEC in the early 90's - I had one of those stupid chips. Then when I finally diagnosed some sensors (ACT, ECT, O2s), I learned that with resistors, you could give the EEC a value that you wanted to give it. That is all the chips basically did - just in a nice box with a sticker that said "SUPERCHIP." It looked neat and sounded impressive.
But 20 years ago - the scam worked. It actually made sense when you think about the sensors and the parameters and no one really knew anything about the EEC-IV.
Jason
Last edited by 85mcLaren; 03-08-2012 at 08:14 AM.
Have you read the EEC manual that explains what it does? The water temp sensor is called the CTS (coolant temp sensor), and it is an absolute critical sensor in the EEC strategy.
Posts like yours just make me cringe, but I'm being good and biting my tongue. Not good info, the sensors have a purpose. Who exactly 'proved' anything? Some hillbilly ice bathing the sensor to see gains? That proves it Jethro! Those dumbass Ford engineers!!
Years back I modded my SVO to a LA3, hadn't installed the ACT yet and went for a drive. I can tell you from 100% experience that when the engine warmed up and the EEC goes into a closed loop, my SVO felt like I was dragging a boat anchor under load.
Take the 10 minutes, drill/tap that intake, or move the sensor in the intake tract. If it's reading ambient or under hood temp, it sees something valid and it may not affect anything, but I guarantee it is changing engine parameters when the engine is sucking in 0 degF air vs 100 degF air.
85 SVO
94 GT CMC#71
65 Fastback
All of this is true.
'88 T-Bird Sport Twisted Wedge heads,3G,,Trick Flow R intake,Scorpion rockers,Ed Curtis cam,BBK headers,Mass Air with 24's,X-Pipe, Flomaster mufflers,75mm t-body,T-5, MGW shifter,Mach 1 chin spoiler,Bullitt gas lid,deep Cobra R wheels,Taurus fan,3.73 gears,140mph speedo,CHE control arms, custom Hood with ''72 Torino scoop, custom trunk lid with integrated spoiler
I am not saying they don't serve a purpose. All I am saying is that certain sensors are not major key players. The O2 sensors are, the mass-air, map are, but some of the others are more for warm-up and/or certain driveability aspects. I have played with the ACT and ECT time and time again and it has never affected my car(s) if I leave the ACT out or actually drilled and tapped it - unless the sensors are bad - of course. Sorry my post scared you and you feel it is bad information, but I am not reading from a "hillbilly" textbook. I am talking from experience. But to each his own.
We all know these EEC-IV cars act differently than another one when changes are made. All I can tell you is from my experience with my own cars. Yours may act differently. Your EEC is also different. I am talking from a VR1, DA1, A9L, A9P, and an A3M1 processor. You have your own experience with your processor and combination. I have my own experience from my own EEC and combos.
Jason
How far in do you drill the hole? All the way thru, or just into the runner?
1986 GT T-Top.
In the middle of its resto...
All the way through INTO the runner, so the air from inside the intake can be seen by the sensor.
1986 CHP SSP Coupe
Ok, Thanks! That's what I thought, just wanted to make sure.
1986 GT T-Top.
In the middle of its resto...
Can anyone assist me with how the vac lines have to be ran on the explorer intake? Also what needs to plugged and blocked off? My intake is the newer non egr. My '86 has no A/C, and is a 5sp and its still SD.
Any pics would be awesome too.
Last edited by Matt86GT; 08-24-2013 at 11:18 AM.
1986 GT T-Top.
In the middle of its resto...
^^^No one has any input on this? I find that hard to believe...
1986 GT T-Top.
In the middle of its resto...
Vacuum tree to intake for source. Brake booster to vacuum tree. Small line off vacuum tree to blend door, it comes out of the firewall by the heater core. Small line from intake to fuel pressure regulator. That's all you 'need' if not running EGR.
1986 CHP SSP Coupe
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