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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    Default How to open rear hatch with no key

    Another question for my 1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0/4-speed.
    How to open the rear hatch without a key? To explain...

    I removed the lock from the drivers door and took it to a locksmith to get keys made. The new keys work fine on that lock. Problem is, they DON'T work on the passenger door, glovebox or rear hatch locks!
    Guess I'll have to remove these locks and have them re-keyed to match the driver's door.

    On a related note, the glovebox latch just FELL APART the last time I opened the glovebox door! The little pot metal pieces fell out and the spring came out. No idea why! It was working fine before that happened. All that was in there was those two pieces and one long spring (is that all there is?).
    No sign of any parts to hold the latch parts in.
    I removed the latch from my 82 Capri to compare it to the one from the Mustang, and it's the same. There is no external part that holds these bits in. Will someone in the know please explain how this thing works and how to put it back together correctly?

    Thanks!

  2. #2

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    Underneath the the hatch lock, on the underside of the hatch, there will be a little plate. You need to drill out the rivet holding the plate on. It has been a while since I have had to do it, but I think that the plate holds the lock cylinder in place, pull the plate and the cylinder should come out. If not there will be another spring type clip, similar to the door lock cylinder clip found on the doors, remove that. Sorry I could not remember the exact instructions.

    Jess

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    Thanks, Jess. What I was hoping for was how to "spring" the catch from the inside.

    There's a diagram in the Chilton book that shows a retainer clip that slides onto the lock cylinder from below and is held in place with one bolt. From what I can see, the hatch has to be open to remove the clip. The diagram also shows a flat "bar" that the lock twists, and this bar turns the latch. It looks like if I need to remove 3 bolts from the lower latch assembly--one bolt comes up from the bottom, though. I'll take another look at it tomorrow.

    Any thoughts on the glovebox latch?

    Is the plate exposed when the hatch is CLOSED? I didn't see it. There were plastic moldings on the top and the bottom. I was able to remove the two bottom screws from the center-bottom piece of plastic, but the top screws were too close to the hatch to use a regular screwdriver on. I have a right-angle screwdriver, but did not have it on me at the time, and moved on to another task.

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default

    Does not the key for the hatch/truck also lock the glove box?
    Been so long since i tried that- no real reason to lock gloves up.

    Have cut some keys in the past, working at a dealer parts counter.

    Sometimes keys are so new they won't work a lock smoothly at first.
    Especially when cut from the key code.

    Usually some light filing to smooth out the cuts does the trick.

    A blank key cut from a worn, or more rounded key, may or may not easily open a door with a less worn lock cylinder.

    DS lock is used way more than the pass side. More forgiving.
    Pass side can be fussy, requiring a key with a pattern closer to a new one.

    A dry lock is also harder to operate.

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member RichV's Avatar
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    Default

    Doesn't someone sell a set of locks/keys to re-key everything?

    You may have previously replaced locks and they may not match like they are supposed to.
    85 SVO
    94 GT CMC#71
    65 Fastback

  6. #6
    Neither here nor there
    Capriman86's Avatar
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    Default

    Your doors, glove box and hatch all should be 1 key
    The ignition key only does that, the ignition.


    Do as mentioned, drill the 2 rivets, pull down on the clip and the lock will just slide out. Then use a long flat screwdriver to unlock the hatch as needed.


    As for the glove box, not sure, you might have to post some pics for use to help you put that back together.

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member DRAGTOP89's Avatar
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    Default

    How about electric release button? It may not have one,but I believe ALL have the wiring for it(the plug should be behind glove box. I know the 87-up cars are all pre-wired for it you just need to go to the junkyard and get the button from any other ford with an electric hatch/trunk.
    putting together a little something special......stay tuned!

    92 notch-WIP
    87GT-S Trim,4:10s,AOD=12.70@107
    89vert-sold
    84SVO-WIP
    84 notch-aka-FREAKSHOW
    85GT shell-for sale
    78 Zephyr-WIP
    86 Capri RS-WIP

    Finally,the list of fox wants is complete!!!

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    gr79, you guessed correctly! I took a wire wheel to the new key, put Lock Ease on it and worked the passenger door and hatch locks a bunch. Both freed up after several tries.

    The hatch has a lot of rust on the lower edge. The area around two plastic drain plugs was rusted out, so I pulled them and vacuumed up the rust. And of course the struts are dead. This car has a plastic support that keeps the hatch from dropping when open all the way. Good idea. That hatch is HEAVY.

    It rained earlier today, and driving around with no defroster (not even cold air), the windows fogged up right away. Drilled out the rivets holding the front heat vent on, and dug out a bunch of material that the mice stuck in the squirrel cage fan and vacuumed it out. The blower now works. I'd like to find a 12v heater element that fits in the heater box and postpone the heater core replacement for awhile, but I'll probably go ahead and do the core.

    A previous owner thought it would be a good idea to GLUE the door panels on by slathering a sticky white glue (much like pipe dope) all over the doors. They used so much it ran down the doors and onto the seals. Used Goop and a thumbnail to get the glue off the mating surfaces. I'll go back later and get the rest off when I make new vapor barriers and repair the door panels.







  9. #9

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    Unless its got an ssp keyed set up. Meaning one key fits all. That can be changed with the ssp lock set. Normally the ford 5 cut keys have different key way for ignition . The ignition is seperate( the square key) key glovebox doors and hatch are another( the round key)
    85 ford mustang gt 5.0 h.o.5 spd
    68 chevy nova SS 350 (slightly modded)
    92 ford ranger prerunner

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member
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    Default

    Ford keys are cut on both sides, but only use 1 side to work.So you can have each side for a different car, 2 cars, 1 set of keys

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