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  1. #51

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    Sorry, double post.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  2. #52
    FEP Super Member roush235's Avatar
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    Great progress, really enjoying this thread. We all appreciate the time and effort you expend to take pictures and post them here.
    Bob in Lebanon, TN
    79 original owner six cylinder coupe
    MCA Gold Card judge for 3rd Generation cars

  3. #53

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    Great progress... Glad to see your bringing it back to live

    Thanks for making me miss my turboGT lol
    1982 TTOP GT-under construction
    1983 Mustang T-top Dominator- black/Black
    85 Gt vert . canyon red/red- Rust heaven
    1982 T-top- Yellow/black
    1984 Turbo GT- Grey/grey

    I HATE MUSTANGS !!-
    THE BOSS IS BACK

  4. #54
    FEP Senior Member Sweet'86gt's Avatar
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    Excellent progress here!! Can't believe the difference in the car, just after a good cleaning.. Nice Job! Keep us posted, diggin' the pictures.
    P.S. I still wanna know how the heck that thing go so nasty inside..
    1986 Mustang GT T-Top 105k Miles. Grey Int. H/C/I 306 (Afr 185, RPM II Intake, X-303)

    Let's admit it, Fox's are an addiction.

  5. #55

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    Got a bit more done this weekend. Had to work a lot so I didn't get as much done as I wanted. I do have a free vacation day now to make up for it. I bought some wheels for the car. I didn't plan on getting rims this early but they were in NC and I could pick them up and they were a good deal.
    Also, I put a new master cylinder on and did some detailing around it. The brakes are working now. I also took it on its MAIDEN VOYAGE! I actually drove the car around. The Turbo sounds like a siren, LOL. I love it. It's easy to work on.





    Last edited by homer302; 01-15-2012 at 08:20 PM.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  6. #56
    FEP Power Member 02Z06's Avatar
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    Great thread! Fantastic progress so far, I love seeing cars like this saved. Great work, keep it up and I'll be following along closely
    Chris Lott
    '81 Cobra T-Top - Black
    '85 Dominator GT - Black, 24k miles
    '85 Predator GT302R #150R - Light Regatta Blue
    '85 Predator GT302 Convertible #119 - White w/blue stripes For Sale
    '86 Texas DPS Mustang (Unit # unknown) - undergoing resto

  7. #57
    FEP Senior Member
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    Great progress! I havenīt started working on my interior, it will be a lot easier than yours because mine is pretty much clean and in great shape, but still I need to pull the carpet off and give it a good wash.

    Love your new rims! I wouldnīt have passed the opportunity either.

  8. #58

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    Here is the update for today. I plan on doing more tomorrow, I'm not done for the week. There was a swap meet in the area today so I had no choice but to go and see if I could find any parts. I didn't but I did get some tools I needed.
    This car is all original. Factory pads and rotors. The ball joints are factory, sway bar bushings are not split. It's just nasty dirty. The caps on the bleeders are still there and not split. Notice the struts are dry, not even leaking yet. Even the dust caps are not damaged. All this stuff is 1984 original.
    You have to love PB Blaster. I pulled it in the garage and soaked it all down and let it sit overnight. Got up and everything broke loose with ease. I also will do a more thorough clean/detail of this area when I put the wheels on for good but didn't want to make the mess in the garage and deal with the fumes right now. Just happy to have a heated place to work and more interested in getting it out on the road (and to the painters) now. I put new rotors, brake lines and pads on. I repacked the bearings as well. It was tempting to go full on and install the Cobra stuff but there is just too much emergency brake cables, axles, fittings etc. that nickel and dime you to death that I am not willing to do yet. I may put the Cobra stuff on after the car is more complete if the car is worthy or I may use it on my other '84. I have kept all my receipts and documented the install so I should be able to sell this and recoup some cash.

    I also had to try one of my new (used) wheels out just to see. I still have to bleed the brakes so it is jacked up in the air but I couldn't wait, LOL.

    On to the pics!











    Last edited by homer302; 01-15-2012 at 08:22 PM.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  9. #59

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    Today I finished up the gas tank for good. I had trouble getting the straps installed the first go around and got frustrated and left it alone and just now got back to it. I have finally matured in that respect and I find that things always seem to go better when you walk away from something that isn't going right and cool down and then go back to it rather than try to force yourself to go on. I also put the late model full plastic cover that the 87 and 2004 cars have on the tank. It came with my '92 tank so why not? Sorry, no pics of that.

    I also bled the front brakes; still need to work on the back ones. But it does at least stop now when you press the pedal. I then put on new spark plug wires and also set the timing. I had suspected it was too far advanced because of how far the distributor was turned. Then on a drive I heard it pinging. It was set to 18 initial with the spout disconnected! So I set it to 9.

    I went for several drives. The first "real" drives it has been on. I have just taken it to the corner and back before. It seems to not rev like it should and at low rpms it kind of sounds like it is missing. I need to drive it some more and really evaluate it. It is not very smooth down low but seems to clean up as the revs climb. It has new plugs and wires on it. The dizzy cap looked ok, not burned or charred but I may go ahead and replace it anyway. Could be fuel injectors too I guess. When you take off it's kind of flat and then zips up but it is spent by 4,000 rpms. I hear the Turbo but could not make the overboost buzzer sound...I don't really know if it still works though. The car does not smoke and I pulled a couple plugs today and there is no oil on them at all.
    Last edited by homer302; 01-15-2012 at 07:28 PM.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  10. #60

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    I didn't post any pictures because I think everyone has lost interest already, LOL. That's ok. I'm doing this for me, not anyone else. I have pictures I can reference. Last night we bled the rear brakes. Took 2 hours. My helper was pumping, pumping and pumping and nothing and I mean nothing was coming out. Finally I went to the new master cylinder (see above) and loosened the line to the front bowl(rear brakes). After a couple pumps a gigantic burst of air came out. I did bench bleed it before installing and got the front ok but I guess there was still air in that bowl. That's ok. I never claimed to be perfect.
    After that I went back to the rear bleeders and a short time later had great pressure shooting out of both sides. We pumped out all the old nasty fluid. The drums and shoes look great as well. Plenty of pad and the drums have no ridges and are really smooth. Just did some cleaning there. Not much dirt and no rust inside the drums at all. It looks really good. I expect to install new wheel cylinders at a minimum because I imagine those seals are about shot but I am more interested in getting on the road now. I promise, you will see I go back and sort out the minor details once all the major ones are sorted out. All that area needs cleaning and painting as well.
    Tonight I installed a new steering rag joint I got at NAPA. You have to kind of make your own hardware out of the universal kit using some of the original hardware and some of theirs but it fit and works great. Talk about a HUGE difference. No slop in the wheel now at all. Man the brakes are as good as brand new. It stops great and has an awesome pedal. I am very pleased. The steering is also great now, no slop or slack. It is ready for an hour long test drive or shake down I guess at this point. Things are progressing nicely!
    Last edited by homer302; 01-18-2012 at 11:07 PM.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  11. #61

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    Actually, pictures keeps people interested. For us simple folk that like books with fewer words and more pictures.

  12. #62
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxChassis View Post
    Actually, pictures keeps people interested. For us simple folk that like books with fewer words and more pictures.
    I agree...

    I enjoy the text, but the pictures are what really keep people interested! We're a pretty visually oriented lot here at FEP.
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible

  13. #63

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    OK, by popular demand, (LOL) I will post some of the steering rag joint install more when I get home tonight. Tonight's episode is R&R on the passenger side power door lock.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  14. #64

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    From past experience go on and swap out or rebuild the rear brake cylinders. After they have set for years and then you start using them they almost always leak (at the worst time). I like seeing how you document your progress. Keep up the good work.

  15. #65

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    Quote Originally Posted by iron man View Post
    From past experience go on and swap out or rebuild the rear brake cylinders. After they have set for years and then you start using them they almost always leak (at the worst time). I like seeing how you document your progress. Keep up the good work.
    Yep. I mentioned that above.

    .............. I expect to install new wheel cylinders at a minimum because I imagine those seals are about shot but I am more interested in getting on the road now. I promise, you will see I go back and sort out the minor details once all the major ones are sorted out.................
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  16. #66

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    Awesome progress , I need to get out in the garage and start on mine!
    John
    85 gt ttop
    86 coupe
    89 5.0 lx vert
    90 LX Hatch
    05 Power Stroke

  17. #67

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    That is a cool find. Just washing it and deep cleaning is going to make a world of difference.

  18. #68

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    Great thread, I've been lurking here for a while........

  19. #69

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    OK, I should have taken more pictures of the steering rag joint install. It took 4 hours to do and you have to take the intermediate shaft out of the car to do. My steering wheel would move probably 4 inches side to side without even moving the rack at all. So the "Before" pictures are my other 84 that has a '93 rack and joint in it already (and is a 5.0 which is why you see a header tube). What breaks down is the rubber disk you see in the middle. Once that breaks and falls out, only the cage holds the steering together and it has SERIOUS slack or play in it. If you look closely, you can see the heads of the OEM hardware that must be ground off (near that piece of peeling paint) to remove the studs or pins. I got my kit at NAPA for $10. There is labor involved. You have to remove the shaft and grind the head off the OEM studs and it takes some time. Plus all this must have red Loctite on it as it's a PITA to remove the WHOLE way out.



    This is the bolt on the upper end of the shaft you must remove. It's under the master cylinder.



    Here is what the finished install looks like. There are 2 pins that locate it and 2 bolts and a cage that hold it to the lower rack and pinion shaft. You can clearly see one of the locator pins and the OEM bolts I reused. I put Loctite on them so I don't see an issue. This is also a good shot of the new Rubber disk. It keeps vibration down. It drives like a new car now.



    Here are the OEM pins that I cut the heads off of with a Dremel and the leftover hardware that came in the kit. The rusty end is the locator pin and the fat part is where it goes through the rubber disk and beyond that is where it is pressed in the flange and it must be cut or gound off. I thought the OEM bolts looked sturdier so I reused them. I did put Loctite back.

    Last edited by homer302; 01-19-2012 at 09:18 PM.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  20. #70

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    Today I went for a pretty long drive. With the new steering joint and working brakes at all 4 corners it took me back to 1984. It wasn't running quite right though. Boost seemed off and as I posted a few posts ago, it seemed to be missing and it was shaking at idle. Tonight it started actually surging at idle.
    I was outside in the dark (the car was running) and I finally heard that infamous hisssss of a leaking vacuum line. It was an Ahhh HHHaaa moment.
    I do have a manual and no, I didn't look it up but whatever this hose does, it is important to a GT Turbo. I did a VERY TEMPORARY driveway in the dark repair on it just to test. Idle is perfect, surge is gone. Now I get boost like I should and the "BOOST" light comes on. I WILL actually properly repair this line but I didn't want to go to the parts store tonight.

    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  21. #71

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    Also, I got my shifter and trim plate in the mail. This is a pic just for those of you like myself who enjoy shifter PORN...........

    I will post up the install of this in the next couple days.


    Last edited by homer302; 01-19-2012 at 09:16 PM.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  22. #72
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Today I went for a pretty long drive. With the new steering joint and working brakes at all 4 corners it took me back to 1984. It wasn't running quite right though. Boost seemed off and as I posted a few posts ago, it seemed to be missing and it was shaking at idle. Tonight it started actually surging at idle.
    I was outside in the dark (the car was running) and I finally heard that infamous hisssss of a leaking vacuum line. It was an Ahhh HHHaaa moment.
    I do have a manual and no, I didn't look it up but whatever this hose does, it is important to a GT Turbo. I did a VERY TEMPORARY driveway in the dark repair on it just to test. Idle is perfect, surge is gone. Now I get boost like I should and the "BOOST" light comes on. I WILL actually properly repair this line but I didn't want to go to the parts store tonight.
    H -

    I checked my 1984 Mustang/Capri Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual and I found something on Page 120, which covers Vacuum Distribution for the 4-Cyl Turbo engine. There's a Red vacuum line that runs from the Distribution Block (not sure where that's located) that splits off to both the EGR Control Solenoid and the Turbo Pressure Switch (these are located on the R/H side shock tower. It looks like the vacuum line you had a problem with is one of the two lines going to the Turbo Pressure Switch.

    I'll have to get check out these lines and see what I find. If they're bad, a bit of vacuum tubing should do the trick.

    BTW - the vacuum distribution for the 4-Cyl Turbo is pretty simple. Much simpler than I imagined anyway.

    Here's a copy of the troubleshooting manual on eBay:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-FORD-MU...item25613a7b71

    Last edited by Gemini1999; 01-20-2012 at 12:34 AM.
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible

  23. #73

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    The distribution block is what most people call a vacuum tree that is on the firewall just behind the fuel lines and above the master cylinder.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  24. #74
    FEP Senior Member 86gtstang's Avatar
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    Great progress Bret,keep up the good work,I still want first dids on it if you get ready to sell it.
    Robert
    86 GT vert
    85 GT

  25. #75

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    OK. This is pretty redneck, I admit it. But I haven't decided what I am going to do as far as exhaust goes so.............. I made a redneck repair. I got in the boost a bit much I guess, LOL and then I heard it blow the hole. Sounds perfect now though and it will hold until I figure it out.
    I put my shifter in. The bushings in the stock one were OEM 1984 and they were shot to say the least. It was terrible to shift. Plus it is absolutely pouring rain today so my options as far as what I could do were somewhat limited. I took the opportunity to change the Transmission fluid while I was under the car. yes, I have the correct shifter plate that goes in the console (and it is perfect by the way, no broken tabs) but I don't know when the console will make it back in so I put the stock one in. I trimmed the lower boot to fit snugly over the shifter base and put it on too, I forgot to snap a pic of that.
    I took the intake tube off just to check things out and make sure that no oil was getting past the turbo. Check it out, I didn't clean it, that's what it looks like after 28 years of use. I'd say it is good right now.

















    Last edited by homer302; 01-21-2012 at 09:28 PM.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

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