5.0 ignition control module epoxy melting

[Saturn V]

84 Mustang 5.0 4V - the epoxy-like encapsulation on the back side of the ignition control module appears to be melting and running down into the frame rail. I tried to clean most of this up, which was there when I bought the car, but that stuff is really hard to get off. Now the module seems to be "leaking" fresh epoxy. Any ideas on what is causing this? I did use some engine degreaser a few weeks ago, and some may have indirectly gotten on the back side of the module. The epoxy is making a mess and also getting on the wiring.

1) What is a good solvent/cleaner to remove this goo without hurting the paint, wiring, and other components?

2) Could a little engine degreaser make this mess? Any other ideas on what is causing the epoxy to run? Is there something that makes these modules overheat?

Thanks.

[ngl9766]

Is it possible its getting hot. Maybe too much resistance somewhere in the circuit.

[82GT_t-top]

thats usually one sign of it going out. my suggestion would be to buy one and keep it in the car just in case.

[bwguardian]

Erik, did you replace the pigtails to do away with the bare wires...I know you probably at least taped them up? I cannot remember if your unit is a aftermarket or Motorcraft unit...if aftermarket or even old original it may be on its way out.

[Saturn V]

Erik, did you replace the pigtails to do away with the bare wires...I know you probably at least taped them up? I cannot remember if your unit is a aftermarket or Motorcraft unit...if aftermarket or even old original it may be on its way out.

Yes, the bare wires are taped, but this isn't the long-term solution. Just ordered a 4-pin pigtail connector (Standard S698 $20.13 shipped -Rock Auto) and Motorcraft ignition module (DY893 $69.28 shipped - Amazon). Hopefully, will be doing some soldering soon.

[85stanggt]

At some point 10 or 15 years ago, mine leaked out all its epoxy. My dad drove it like that until he gave it to me. I drove it like that for the last 7 years. Still works, but I replaced it with a new Ford unit I was able to source. I didn't think much of it, but it did make a mess on the frame rail. The epoxy is still there to this day. That stuff is tough.

[negusm]

Is it a Ford module? If not, get a FORD module.

If it is a Ford unit, check your wiring. It's probably thin with bad connections, this will raise resistance and cause circuits to heat up.

Also double check you have a 6cyl/8cyl module and not the 4cyl module. They made blue grommet modules in two flavors. 4cyl ones are not to be used with v8 cars.

-Mike

[bwguardian]

Also double check you have a 6cyl/8cyl module and not the 4cyl module. They made blue grommet modules in two flavors. 4cyl ones are not to be used with v8 cars.

-Mike

How do you tell the difference? I have always heard a blue grommet module is a blue grommet module.

[Saturn V]

Can't believe the car even ran with the old Duraspark connector ... insulation was missing from the wires at the connector ... the only thing keeping them from shorting would have been a little corrosion and grime on the wires. bwguardian spotted this for me last summer and I taped up the wires with electrical tape ... seemed to work OK all last year.

Finished soldering in the new connector tonight. I just stripped about 1/2" of insulation from either wire, twisted them together, soldered them, and covered with heat shrink. I discovered that soldering together a twisted mass of wires is hard ... all of that copper soaks up the heat and the solder doesn't want to melt. Got frustrated and ended up removing the solder tip from the butane-powered solderer and attached the flame tip. Results weren't pretty, and I deserve to be chastised (open flame near carb, poor technique, etc). If I'd been more patient, would have gone out to get the bare crimp splice connectors and solder these in, as I recall JACook recommended ... may have to do this anyway later if the joints don't hold.

Installed the new DY893 module, started the engine and it ran good ... I even think it started easier than it did with the old module and connector. Just need to get mounting hardware for the box ... see WTB post.

[negusm]

How do you tell the difference? I have always heard a blue grommet module is a blue grommet module.

There are numbers stamped on the case. Some end in AA or AB.

One is for 6/8 cyl and one is for 4. I'd need to check my parts list when I get home tonight to look it up.

-Mike

[c391d]

I also thought all blue grommet module's were the same. I have a NOS one stamped AA and I picked up this one ending in A2C at a JY last summer. What engine is this for? I was going to use it as a spare.

[c391d]

There are numbers stamped on the case. Some end in AA or AB.

One is for 6/8 cyl and one is for 4. I'd need to check my parts list when I get home tonight to look it up.

-Mike

Were you able to check the part #'s for the Blue Grommet Module's? Just wondering if the one I was going to use as a spare ending with A2C will work with a 5.0 or if I should look for another spare.

[negusm]

Sorry guys. Been a rough month.

Here is the skinny form the Ford Books:

Motorcraft part numbers DY-184C and DY-184CDP w/engineering number stamped E8PF12A199-AB are to be used on 4,6,8 cyl applications. Parts w/engineering number stamped E8PF12A199-AA are used only on 4 and 6 cyl applications

There are a BUNCH of part numbers for each year and engine combo. It'll take too long to type them out but here are the part numbers (these are what Ford uses to sell them with and they are NOT what's stamped on them) for 1982-85 5.0

82-85 5.0 MT = D9VZ-12A99-A (DY-184-C)

[RickFury]

Here is the skinny form the Ford Books:

Motorcraft part numbers DY-184C and DY-184CDP w/engineering number stamped E8PF12A199-AB are to be used on 4,6,8 cyl applications. Parts w/engineering number stamped E8PF12A199-AA are used only on 4 and 6 cyl applications

So why would Ford bother with making E8PF12A199-AA to be used only on 4 and 6 cylinder engines, when E8PF12A199-AB can be used on 4, 6, or 8 cylinder engines?

There are a BUNCH of part numbers for each year and engine combo. It'll take too long to type them out but here are the part numbers (these are what Ford uses to sell them with and they are NOT what's stamped on them) for 1982-85 5.0

82-85 5.0 MT = D9VZ-12A99-A (DY-184-C)

Does the ignition module care what transmission is used? If D9VZ-12A99-A is used for the 82-85 5.0 with manual transmission, I wonder if this was a "performance" ignition module, since these were Ford's hottest engines at that time?

If not, what makes D9VZ-12A99-A different from E8PF12A199-AB?

[negusm]

So why would Ford bother with making E8PF12A199-AA to be used only on 4 and 6 cylinder engines, when E8PF12A199-AB can be used on 4, 6, or 8 cylinder engines?

Save money. AB would only really go on 8 cyl engines of which there were very very few.

The AA was probably $.05 cheaper and could go on all the other cars.

Does the ignition module care what transmission is used? If D9VZ-12A99-A is used for the 82-85 5.0 with manual transmission, I wonder if this was a "performance" ignition module, since these were Ford's hottest engines at that time?

No, the transmission doesn't make a difference. The parts books say MT because some 5.0 cars were CFI. They don't take a Duraspark (use a TFI instead). Since all CFI 5.0 cars were automatics, it's easiest to separate the parts that way in the books. I can look but the AT/MT designation might be for the 84-85 time frame only.

If not, what makes D9VZ-12A99-A different from E8PF12A199-AB?

If you buy a Duraspark with D9VZ-12A99-A on the box at a Ford dealer, the Duraspark that falls out of that box, WILL NOT BE MARKED WITH THAT NUMBER. It will have an engineering number : E8PF12A199-AB

They can reference the same part.

The E8 engineering number is from 1988...so there will be earlier made Durasparks with earlier engineering numbers on it.

I am sure this isn't helping.

-Mike

[bwguardian]

I checked my spare...soon to be installed...and it is the E8PF12A199-AB.

[RickFury]

This is interesting. Do you have any idea what would happen if a person where to use a E8PF-12A199-AA ignition module (made for 4 and 6 cylinder engines) on a 5.0?


I checked my two spares I got from the junkyard.

One has the number E8PF-12A199-AB stamped into it, the other has D9VZ-12A99-A stamped into it.

[bwguardian]

Save money. AB would only really go on 8 cyl engines of which there were very very few.

The AA was probably $.05 cheaper and could go on all the other cars.



No, the transmission doesn't make a difference. The parts books say MT because some 5.0 cars were CFI. They don't take a Duraspark (use a TFI instead). Since all CFI 5.0 cars were automatics, it's easiest to separate the parts that way in the books. I can look but the AT/MT designation might be for the 84-85 time frame only.



If you buy a Duraspark with D9VZ-12A99-A on the box at a Ford dealer, the Duraspark that falls out of that box, WILL NOT BE MARKED WITH THAT NUMBER. It will have an engineering number : E8PF12A199-AB
They can reference the same part.

The E8 engineering number is from 1988...so there will be earlier made Durasparks with earlier engineering numbers on it.

I am sure this isn't helping.

-Mike

This is interesting. Do you have any idea what would happen if a person where to use a E8PF-12A199-AA ignition module (made for 4 and 6 cylinder engines) on a 5.0?


I checked my two spares I got from the junkyard.

One has the number E8PF-12A199-AB stamped into it, the other has D9VZ-12A99-A stamped into it.

Interesting given what was mentioned above.

[c391d]

Well now I am really confused. I stoped at the Ford dealer today and told them I needed an Ignition module for a 5.0 and they told me I needed part#12A199 AA. $142.00 plus tax. Also I have a used one ending in A2C. Any idea what this will work on?

[negusm]

I have a stack (6+) of NOS Duraspark modules with various stamping on them. I think there is a D8, D9, E3 and E8 stamping.

The parts book I pulled the info from (printed in 1993 and the final edition for the 80's) will only be speaking about REPLACEMENT parts. And at that time ALL the replacement parts off from Ford's shelves would ONLY have the E8 stamping.

Actual, original parts will of course have anything from D8 (1978 ) - E8 (1988 ) stamped on them as they modified the Duraspark boxes over the years.

There are also DARK BLUE grommet Duraspark boxes and LIGHT BLUE grommet Durapark boxes too.

The dealer you went to, might have a newer revision of the information I have. Ford may have consolidated to a SINGLE box in more recent years.

-Mike

[JACook]

Well now I am really confused. I stoped at the Ford dealer today and told them I needed an Ignition module for a 5.0 and they told me I needed part#12A199 AA. $142.00 plus tax. Also I have a used one ending in A2C. Any idea what this will work on?

The DY-893 Motorcraft number will get you the right one. (DY-184C is superseded.) And
your Ford dealer's price is over MSRP, and about double what you can get it for elsewhere.
Tousley Ford in Minnesota lists it for $73. http://tousleyfordparts.com/

[c391d]

So I have a NOS module I bought a year ago from someone online that is stamped F2PF-12A199-AA. Can you tell me what the Ford part# is or should I go to the Dealer again and ask if this is a good module for a 5.0?

[c391d]

Just called Tousley Ford and they said the NOS module I have is for a F series truck with a 429-460 but they couldn't tell me if it would work on a 5.0. So that means a module ending in AA is for a V8? How confusing.

[JACook]

If it's got a blue strain relief, I'd use it. If the strain relief is some other color, maybe not.
No need to get too hung up on what the module originally was made for.

[c391d]

Yes it's got a blue strain relief. Finally going to be dropping the engine in this weekend so start up will be in the near future. Just hoping not to have any melt downs on the freshly detailed engine bay.