347Boss project

[chargedGT]

I noticed you mentioned that you were going to replace the rag joint in the steering shaft. Have you looked into the MM replacement shaft? It's a very nice piece and it replaces the rag joint with a u-joint. Good luck.

[Ozzie]

I have one all ready to go...nice piece indeed.

[FoxFords&FFR's]

Hey Ozzie,
Sweet car for sure, love all the subtle details. As for your throttle cable bracket, I had similar issues with mine and what I ended up doing is slotting the holes and also cutting the bracket in half taking some out of it and welding it back together. Came out perfect. Mine is on a 383W with a TFS box intake that I deleted the spacer from and took an additional inch out of to fit under the hood of my FFR Cobra. I also had to make an angled TB mount which I made out of an extra intake and EGR spacer. Came out mint and gave me the clearance I needed with the tall valve covers. Good Luck with your solution.

Mike

[Ozzie]

Thanks Mike. Glad to hear your setup worked out for you, I thought about cutting up my cable bracket but I picked up an MCMachine piece after that I'm hoping to use.

The Victor EFI came with a throttle cable bracket as well that bolts to the lower intake manifold and runs your cable down beside your fuel rail but I don't have enough room.

When I get home in 3 weeks from my shift I need to put in the brake booster and a few other odds and ends and drop the motor in place for good (hopefully). Already installed the new MM steering shaft (had to loosen the rack bushings and pull the rack away to get it in) and it is a very quality piece, can't wait to see how it responds....no more rubber bushing. I'm also gonna re-plumb all that ugly rubber hose off the fuel rails and regulator and install some braided hose and AN fittings...cleaned up the fan and clutch assembly and picked up a new PS pump then painted all the PS brackets/pulley and hardware the other day - just need to press the pulley on and install. Starting to come around slowly.

[Ozzie]

Motor is finally in place after sitting on the stand for almost 3 years.. New clutch, rebuilt Z-spec gearbox, and alumiunm driveshaft all in as well. Can't believe it, only took all of 5-6 hours to do but have been putting it off for so long.

With the vert mounts I figure the engine dropped 3/4" or so and even with the new slimmer steering shaft it's still rubbing one of the primarys on the header. Gonna try and move the steering column over a touch when I get home in a few weeks and if that doesn't work I'm probably going to shim up the motor mounts....I only need about an 1/8" clearance. Has anybody tried this yet? I havent really sized it up but I think I read on here once that somebody with the same issue had done this.

Can anybody confirm that the torque spec on the driveshaft bolts is 140ft.lbs?

[4EYED85]

Sweeet Capri you have there. Sounds like 306gt has a good idea.

[n20capri]

Nice progress Oz!!!

[Capriman86]

Looks SO good!!! Love your car and progress is great!

[Ozzie]

Looks great. Why not flip the throttle body over and use the Explorer throttle cable. They pull from the front.

Must have missed your post...I'm not familiar with the explorer throttle cable, is it the same but longer? Might be a good idea, Thanks.

I wonder if the IAC valve would be in the way of my valve cover breather?? I'll have to size this up when I get home. Also have to check to see if I'd have clearance for the TPS when it's flipped...those valve covers are friggin' tall

[cb84capri]

where did you get that driveshaft torque spec from? going off memory i swear it's 80-90 ft/lbs.

cale

[Duey782]

When I look at this thread I get this feeling like I'm watching porn..

[Ozzie]

where did you get that driveshaft torque spec from? going off memory i swear it's 80-90 ft/lbs.

cale

Can't remember Cale, I'm pretty much going off memory as well....I'll probably give Ray a call at Ford Tech to confirm, he's usually pretty quick. You use threadlocker on those bolts as well? Seem to recall the original bolts were threadlocked when I removed them years ago..

And Thanks for the compliments fellas, much appreciated.

[cb84capri]

Can't remember Cale, I'm pretty much going off memory as well....I'll probably give Ray a call at Ford Tech to confirm, he's usually pretty quick. You use threadlocker on those bolts as well? Seem to recall the original bolts were threadlocked when I removed them years ago..

And Thanks for the compliments fellas, much appreciated.

yes i do. i usually torque them to 80ft/lbs with blue loctite.

cale

[Ozzie]

Little update on goings on....

Finally managed to get the correct belt length after my 3rd purchase attempt. Problem was there isn't much slack on the tie-rod sytle tensioner I am using (maybe 3/4"..) with my new alternator so I had to be within a 1/4" on belt length after. Anyways, thats on there now and tensioned as well as the fan/clutch, new aluminum rad and steeda rad cover bracket. Although now I don't think I can use my hood prop rod cause it looks like it will scratch up the bracket.

I also installed all the plugs and wiring for the front headlights, horns, windshield washer pump, etc. but still lots of wiring and vaccum left to go.

Looking for a good pic of the back side of the passenger strut tower so I can see exactly how those vaccum sensors bolt on and which vac lines go where. If anybody can post one it would be super appreciated!! Hoping to get most of the wiring clued up tonight. ALSO, it looks like my drivers side O2 sensor plug of main harnass wont reach the O2 sensor harnass, I think I may have the main harnass routed wrong (over the master cylinder and not under).....a shot of that would be awesome too if possible.

thanks
Oz

[Ourobos]

Are you running a smog pump? If not all those vacuum lines can be deleted but one. You need to keep the EVR if running EGR. You basically run a line from manifold / tree over to the bottom port on the EVR, then run the top port out to the EGR valve. You can Tee in the check ball in the passenger fender if you want, to hold more vacuum to it.

[Ozzie]

No I am not running a smog pump. I am also using an EGR delete plate so the EGR is toast as well. Not sure if I'm ghonna need an oil separator yet but my thoughts are yes. So all those vaccum sensors on the pass side strut tower can be deleted? So what will I be left with off the manifold? A line for the adfpr, one for the brake booster, map sensor ??

[Ourobos]

Yep, delete them all then. You'll have Brake booster, a line to the manifold for source, FPR, and if still speed density, the map sensor.

[Ozzie]

Thanks Ourbos, all Good...converted to mass air too so line to map not required I don't believe...so that leaves me with booster and FPR I would assume...can't see anything else that requires a vac line?

Big progress this past few days...new msd installed, mini starter and 3G all wired up and made up my new 6AN fuel lines. Just waiting for a special 5/16 x -6male fitting to Adapt hard lines to braid and another 45deg flare to jump off the fuel rail to the hard line. Had to order that 45 from summit today (not available locally)...$56!!!! Also Figured out how to tackle the throttle body issue as well..I need to take the accufab 3" billet egr delete down to 1 1/16" thickness in order to properly space the TB and fit the return fuel line AND the throttle cable AND injector wiring harness all into the valley without snagging the TB linkage on anything.

All in all things are going surprisingly good, just waiting for the next snarl....will be bolting on the upper lower intakes tomorrow and then basically start plugging connectors together.

Should also mention I found a BXT56 motorcraft battery at my fathers place that is still in great shape!! This was a big score cause I was still undecided as to which battery to use. the end is near....

[Ourobos]

Didn't see, but what heads and cam are you using?

I've seen that Victor EFI with a set of stick Twisted Wedge heads and an Anderson N41 cam make over 400hp to the tires on a little 306. Should be nasty.

[Ozzie]

Ford racing Z heads, 2.02,1.60...cam is ford (custom grind maybe?) .580" lift intake .602" exhaust Duration at .050" is 232 deg intake and 240 exh. Not sure who makes fords cams or if they do their own..Hoping for ~450hp flywheel.

[TWR2003]

Also Figured out how to tackle the throttle body issue as well..I need to take the accufab 3" billet egr delete down to 1 1/16" thickness in order to properly space the TB and fit the return fuel line AND the throttle cable AND injector wiring harness all into the valley without snagging the TB linkage on anything.

I would think that would just make your clearance issues worse. As I posted before I think you need to make your EGR spacer longer (not shorter).

Good luck
T

[Ourobos]

Oh yes, I think you'll meet your goal, no problem.

[Ozzie]

I would think that would just make your clearance issues worse. As I posted before I think you need to make your EGR spacer longer (not shorter).

Good luck
T

Nope, I actually need to make it shorter. You can see in the pics I posted on the first page of this thread how close the ball is to the top pan on the TB linkage. If I were to make the EGR longer I would be touching off the valve cover...and I can't use a phenolic spacer to drive everything up a half inch cause hood clearance is not there. I've mocked this up now several times and I'm pretty sure that I will be OK.

[Ozzie]

Just bolted down the upper intake and mocked up the TB until I have the EGR delete plate milled down. You can see there's enough room in the valley for the fuel return line, TB cable (minus cruise control) and the injector harnass wiring. Just barely. (Don't mind the fuel line sticking up that can be pushed down an inch or so). The thrttle cable is obstruction free and with the MC Machine throttle cable bracket it looks like I am in the clear. Pretty excited this worked out.






You can see here I had to use a 45deg fitting to route the fuel line properly off the fuel rail, this worked out nice because I think it will give me enough room to put in a 90 pipe fitting on the water jacket hole on the lower manifold and then Tee into it the coolant line off the waterpmup plus the coolant temperature sensor. I'll worry about lines to the heater core later.


Just out behind the FPR I had to make up a fuel rail crossover line which was pretty tangly given the room I had back there...The line worked out good and had about a 1/8 of an inch clearance on either side.






Just gotta hook up some vac hoses now and get the EGR delete milled down. Then its on to the gas tank and new exhaust.

[TWR2003]

Looks good!



Obviously you will need either shorter studs or you can probably just use bolts, although studs make it easier to hang the gaskets and line everything up.

BTW what are you going to do about the water lines from the heater core to the intake and WP? And where are you locating your ECT sensor?