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  1. #1

    Default aluminum air cleaner top restoration?

    Trying to refinish my brushed/machined aluminum air cleaner top, from an 85 5-speed 5.0.


    The clear coat is only about half there and the 5.0 decal is also a lost cause (should say 5.8 in my app anyway ).

    Sanding stuff down and re-spraying is nothing new to me, but I'm worried about getting a reasonably original looking finish on the aluminum. Do you think I can replicate it by careful sanding in a circular pattern "with the grain"? Any good tips for the new clear coat? Any tips for those stock replacement style decals all over the interwebs to stick?


    Oh and a longshot but does anyone know a place I can get hose that will mate up to the snorkels but comes in longer than stock foxbody lengths? This is going in a car a good foot wider.


    Thanks,
    John

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnunit View Post
    Trying to refinish my brushed/machined aluminum air cleaner top, from an 85 5-speed 5.0.


    The clear coat is only about half there and the 5.0 decal is also a lost cause (should say 5.8 in my app anyway ).

    Sanding stuff down and re-spraying is nothing new to me, but I'm worried about getting a reasonably original looking finish on the aluminum. Do you think I can replicate it by careful sanding in a circular pattern "with the grain"? Any good tips for the new clear coat? Any tips for those stock replacement style decals all over the interwebs to stick?


    Oh and a longshot but does anyone know a place I can get hose that will mate up to the snorkels but comes in longer than stock foxbody lengths? This is going in a car a good foot wider.


    Thanks,
    John
    Using an aluminum wheel clear coat remover might save you some time and trouble. Once the clear coat is off, then sanding in a circular motion as you mentioned is probably the best option to replicated the finish. You might need to experiment on a scrap piece of aluminum to determine which grit matches the factory brushed finish. I am guessing here, but I think something in the 220-240 might work, but I have not test this theory yet on mine.

    Once the lid is refinished to your personal desires you can either install the new decal on the freshly cleaned, degreased lid without any additional work. Just make sure to wipe the lid down with something such as acetone and then wipe the acetone off with a fresh paper towel. If you still have black residue on the final towel, repeat until the towel wipes clean. Now you can clearcoat the lid and decal together.

    If you don't want the decal under the clear, then do the same prep to clear the lid and then after the clear has time to cure, install the new decal.

    As for the ducts that go to the fenders, you might check the internet. The fresh air tubes used to be available at most parts stores, but due to the introduction of EFI many years ago, you don't see them as often now. There used to be universal kits you could buy in the Help section or air filter section of the stores. I am sure you can find something online. Another option is brake duct hoses from a Road Racing supplier. Dryer vents also work in a pinch if all else fails.

    Good Luck!
    Trey
    ​Trey

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    A while back, someone posted about how they chucked up the lid into a drill press, slowed the speed waaaay down, and then used a 3M pad to get the circular pattern. Sounded a lilttle on the dangerous side, but ........... if it worked, maybe it could be an option. Your results may vary.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeraldRice View Post
    A while back, someone posted about how they chucked up the lid into a drill press, slowed the speed waaaay down, and then used a 3M pad to get the circular pattern. Sounded a lilttle on the dangerous side, but ........... if it worked, maybe it could be an option. Your results may vary.

    Where is your sense of adventure Derald? lol

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=103856

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=86658

  5. #5

    Default

    I bolted my lid to my wife's pottery wheel, spun it at low speed and used a Scotch Brite pad. It turned out great! Had the correct spun look. Then I ruined it with a clearcoat spray bomb from Lowes. Need to strip it and clear coat it correctly.
    79 Capri RS 5.0/AOD | 82 CHP SSP #0513 5.0/SROD | 82 Capri Tu-Tone 4.2/C5 | 83 NCSHP SSP 5.0/SROD
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capriman86 View Post
    Where is your sense of adventure Derald? lol
    Adventure is one thing, doing something that will end up on the 5 o'clock news is another totally diferent subject.

    The potters wheel sounds like a good option since the lid can be supported from the back side, and the speed would be appropriate.
    Last edited by DeraldRice; 10-17-2011 at 10:51 AM.

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    Default lid

    Actually, I clamped my drill in a vise and used a mandrel for a small buffing wheel to mount the air cleaner lid on. Then, I used a green scotch brite pad to clean it up. It turn out really nice so I had to go back and take out a ding or two. I did not clear coat mine as the elements are not harsh out here. I do hit it with some car wax now and then. Just be sure to replace the pins in the hood pad so it does not rub on the air cleaner.
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  8. #8

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    Thanks guys, good stuff.

    I hear reference to bad lowes clear coat jobs. Do you think that was prep or are some clear coats not suitable for the job? Anyone remember what they used on one that is still looking good? This is going in a car that has no garage while it sits over the long canadian winters, so durability is a concern.

  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member ddawson's Avatar
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    That's what I did too.

    1st I wet sanded the whole thing down.
    2nd I polished it to a high shine using the Mothers power ball and Bullit Polish.
    3rd attached it to a drill and with a very light touch scratched the service until it looked right. Then clean and clean again. Soap and hot water, then an alcohol wipe down.
    4th, Clear coat. I used Wheel Clear coat.

    Still looks like new after a year.
    1969 Corvette 496 Roadster, Gas Guzzler
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  10. #10
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnunit View Post
    Oh and a longshot but does anyone know a place I can get hose that will mate up to the snorkels but comes in longer than stock foxbody lengths? This is going in a car a good foot wider.
    Thanks,
    John
    Fox resto has them, but are a little spendy. They are $21.99 a piece.

    http://www.foxresto.com/products/vie...take_Flex_Tube
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member Puter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STLPONDS View Post
    Fox resto has them, but are a little spendy. They are $21.99 a piece.

    http://www.foxresto.com/products/vie...take_Flex_Tube
    But will those stretch a half foot?
    85 GT convertible

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Puter View Post
    But will those stretch a half foot?
    I would like to think they would if they are selling them, but you never know.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  13. #13

    Default

    Bumping this again for what probably seems like a silly question:

    Like I asked above,
    Do people here think that a new air cleaner hose like in the link above would stretch? How "tight" is it on a mustang? I think 5-6 inches would do it. Basically I need it to stretch to the inner fender of a Crown Victoria instead of a Mustang.


    I'm also wondering if anyone has info on what they ended up with when trying to stay strictly emissions legal on a carbureted mustang, but using a non-stock carburetor. I'm talking retaining smog pump, EGR, evap, etc. All at least somewhat functional.

    I have a holley 4150 carb with 4180 fuel bowls (for evap purposes).

    Looking at a few threads I've found, there seems to be the "keep it all there exactly as OEM" camp and the "gut it all" camp. I'm trying to figure out how to have a simple(r) emissions system that retains most or all functionality, looks reasonably original ('plausible factory ford', but not necessarily like anything for actually made) and is compatible with my new carb. It does have ports for PCV and emissions. I'll be using electric choke. I MAY be able to piece together a more factory choke setup from the 4180 parts carb I have, but I only want to go that route if it's somehow integral to other emission system function.

    I know it's an oddball thing, but any tips will be helpful.

  14. #14
    FEP Power Member Puter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnunit View Post
    Do people here think that a new air cleaner hose like in the link above would stretch?
    No, it will not stretch that much.
    85 GT convertible

  15. #15

    Default

    There is generic fender to air cleaner hose you can get. I see them marketed for JEEPs but they sometimes also list 81-83 Mustangs since those cars didn't use the hard plastic tubes.

    -Mike

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