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Thread: Needing 10's

  1. #26

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    And I still have iron heads,an AOD, stock hatch with glass and glass windshield, and stock brakes.
    1986 GT
    347 n/a 11:1 comp
    AOD Lentech
    4.56 gears
    11.27@119.1

  2. #27
    FEP Member 408IIII's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1147 View Post
    And I still have iron heads,an AOD, stock hatch with glass and glass windshield, and stock brakes.
    That's pretty amazing

  3. #28

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    1147, where did you lose all that weight?
    Yep my **** is coming apart again... Isnt life great!

    (My peeps!)
    http://www.sbftech.com/
    http://www.fordstrokers.com/index.php

  4. #29
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1147 View Post
    My car with me in it is 2685, and I am 220!!
    Quote Originally Posted by 1147 View Post
    And I still have iron heads,an AOD, stock hatch with glass and glass windshield, and stock brakes.
    So your car without driver weighs 2685-220=2465!

    While I'm not actually throwing the BS flag, I am wondering how that's possible unless you've really gone all out cutting weight.

    My car has an aluminum headed Windsor so I doubt if the motor weighs much more than your iron headed 8.2 block motor. I'm sure my T5 weighs less than an AOD. Between the motor and transmission I'd bet our weights are very nearly the same. I also have stock hatch with glass, glass windshield and stock brakes.

    I have all the HVAC stuff out of the car, light weight bumpers front and rear, 10 gallon fuel cell instead of stock tank, front coil-overs instead of the heavy front springs, rear seat delete, light weight plastic front seats, aluminum driveshaft, Weld wheels with skinny's on the front, no tail pipes or H-pipe just tiny little mufflers bolted to the headers, a fiberglas hood, and probably some stuff I forgot in the way of weight reduction and my car without driver still weighs 2865.

    Where did you lose another 400 lbs! Seriously, I'd like to drop some more weight myself. I'm assuming you have no roll bar? Mine's steel and weighs around 100 lbs, but still that leaves 300 lbs unaccounted for.

    I'm really not trying to be a smartazz, just thinking maybe you have some weight reduction tips I haven't thought of yet.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  5. #30
    FEP Senior Member DadBox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1147 View Post
    And I still have iron heads,an AOD, stock hatch with glass and glass windshield, and stock brakes.

    For now I am dubious about the accuracy of the scale (not the original post). My gutted-and-rebuilt-with-only-what-was-necessary-to-run-and-pass-emissions '79 Capri weighs like 2835 with iron heads and a T5, full exhaust, and interior plastics. And me.

    I'd love to find another 200#!

  6. #31
    FEP Member 408IIII's Avatar
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    What do you guys think about starting with a Victor jr intake and a 850 holley hp carb?

  7. #32
    FEP Senior Member DadBox's Avatar
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    Why not just try the Victor JR. with the 750, since you have it? Personally I like to change one thing at a time, so I don't take three steps forward with one thing and two steps back with another. Yes it would still be faster than before but it could have been even more so!

  8. #33

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    Vic jr is what i would try.
    86 stang GT hatchback HX35 turbo project ( Gonna call it done....for now! no numbers yet ) now with a blown T5.

    **NEW** 00' F250 4X4 supercab short bed PSD!! Straight piped and on 35's. Hoping for a tuner soon!!

    02 mountaineer stock! Fiances' ride

  9. #34

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    I will take you to the scale at 131 and show you. Mike we have talked about the weight in the past so that statement should not be a a surprise. I can list what i have hole sawed and gutted.

    Fiberglass hood
    aluminum rad
    gutted doors
    lexan door windows and quarter windows
    All unnecessary wires removed
    no panels inside
    gutted the dash, no steel frame
    no bumpers
    no head lights
    no dog bone on rearend
    fuel cell with only 3 gallons in it
    optima battery
    open header
    aluminum driveshaft
    mt drag only front runners not the heavy street tires
    took the hole saw every where
    no ebrake stuff
    no sway bars, and removed the brackets they attach too
    lite weight racing seat
    removed all tail lite wires except for one lite
    i hole sawed the area under the rad. and interior panels
    took alot of sheet metal from under the hood
    UPR K member and coil overs
    we removed OD from the AOD
    no egr plate
    no O2 sensors
    everything that was for emissions has been removed
    I asked 131 tech about its accuracy and they state for events wear weight needs to be checked the scale has to be accurite.
    Mike look at your fronts you have big tires i weighed my fronts from when i switched from my streets to the race only and that alone was 20 pounds off the front.
    Also: no altenator, no heating or cooling equipment, no passenger side mirror, no quad shocks or brackets that use to exist for there function, extra bolts and nots that are not needed. And we found that a tranny cooler was not needed so all those lines related to that have also been removed. I disk brakes on the back. Weigh one of your head lites once and you will be surprised.
    And yes it has an 8 point cage and all required equipment that meets NHRA standards.
    Last edited by 1147; 09-23-2011 at 11:55 AM.
    1986 GT
    347 n/a 11:1 comp
    AOD Lentech
    4.56 gears
    11.27@119.1

  10. #35

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    With all that I believe it.
    Yep my **** is coming apart again... Isnt life great!

    (My peeps!)
    http://www.sbftech.com/
    http://www.fordstrokers.com/index.php

  11. #36
    FEP Senior Member DadBox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1147 View Post
    I will take you to the scale at 131 and show you. Mike we have talked about the weight in the past so that statement should not be a a surprise. I can list what i have hole sawed and gutted.

    Fiberglass hood
    aluminum rad
    gutted doors
    lexan door windows and quarter windows
    All unnecessary wires removed
    no panels inside
    gutted the dash, no steel frame
    no bumpers
    no head lights
    no dog bone on rearend
    fuel cell with only 3 gallons in it
    optima battery
    open header
    aluminum driveshaft
    mt drag only front runners not the heavy street tires
    took the hole saw every where
    no ebrake stuff
    no sway bars, and removed the brackets they attach too
    lite weight racing seat
    removed all tail lite wires except for one lite
    i hole sawed the area under the rad. and interior panels
    took alot of sheet metal from under the hood
    UPR K member and coil overs
    we removed OD from the AOD
    no egr plate
    no O2 sensors
    everything that was for emissions has been removed
    I asked 131 tech about its accuracy and they state for events wear weight needs to be checked the scale has to be accurite.
    Mike look at your fronts you have big tires i weighed my fronts from when i switched from my streets to the race only and that alone was 20 pounds off the front.
    Also: no altenator, no heating or cooling equipment, no passenger side mirror, no quad shocks or brackets that use to exist for there function, extra bolts and nots that are not needed. And we found that a tranny cooler was not needed so all those lines related to that have also been removed. I disk brakes on the back. Weigh one of your head lites once and you will be surprised.

    Oh sorry I though it was actually a driver. Sounds nice and feathery.

  12. #37
    FEP Member 408IIII's Avatar
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    Victor Jr intake has arrived. I didn't realize there is no vacuum port on it. What have you guys done with your Victor Jr's for Vacuum. Just need vacuum for my trans. My holley carb has a vacuum port at the back that is not used. PVC I think.Can I use it?

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by 408IIII View Post
    Victor Jr intake has arrived. I didn't realize there is no vacuum port on it. What have you guys done with your Victor Jr's for Vacuum. Just need vacuum for my trans. My holley carb has a vacuum port at the back that is not used. PVC I think.Can I use it?
    Yes, use the port at the back of the carb. Also like others have said, run a lower octane fuel. I think 93 would be ideal.

  14. #39
    FEP Senior Member ngl9766's Avatar
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    Move to Houston.....LOL

  15. #40
    FEP Member 408IIII's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ngl9766 View Post
    Move to Houston.....LOL
    Good point

  16. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by 408IIII View Post
    Victor Jr intake has arrived. I didn't realize there is no vacuum port on it. What have you guys done with your Victor Jr's for Vacuum. Just need vacuum for my trans. My holley carb has a vacuum port at the back that is not used. PVC I think.Can I use it?
    if you dont have the port in the back of your carb then you couls do this
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=120740
    1986 T-bird
    347,185 AFR,AOD,4.30
    http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_MOV06949.jpg
    11.48@119.27
    (coming soon Tremec 3550)
    pictures:
    http://s174.photobucket.com/albums/w...rinnie/T-bird/
    Jeremy

  17. #42
    FEP Member 408IIII's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 347Thunder View Post
    if you dont have the port in the back of your carb then you couls do this
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=120740
    Darn search feature
    Should have tried that first

  18. #43
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    a vic jr intake, 4.10 gears and a 3800- 4000 stall will mos def help. what rpm does your motor drop to with each shift?
    pump gas 9.8.1 414 stroker with fully ported iron highports with titanium valves and retainers, fully ported cut and welded vic jr intake, 950 garry williams carb, ci tl solid roller cam, 2 inch hooker super comp long tubes, msd 7al plus, msd billet distributor, procomp electric water pump, pa c4, ptc 5000 stall, team z k member and a arms.

  19. #44
    FEP Member 408IIII's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by .060over View Post
    a vic jr intake, 4.10 gears and a 3800- 4000 stall will mos def help. what rpm does your motor drop to with each shift?
    You know I have never checked. But was also thinking about that as well. Ideally what should the rpm drop be?

  20. #45
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    it should drop to where your making your power
    pump gas 9.8.1 414 stroker with fully ported iron highports with titanium valves and retainers, fully ported cut and welded vic jr intake, 950 garry williams carb, ci tl solid roller cam, 2 inch hooker super comp long tubes, msd 7al plus, msd billet distributor, procomp electric water pump, pa c4, ptc 5000 stall, team z k member and a arms.

  21. #46

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    what is your current suspension set up ?

  22. #47

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    I would leave the carb for now and def do Vic jr intake . The one you have is killing it . And try 26" tires As long as it hooks that should do it
    David

    Silver 86 GT
    Mods: Flowmaster cat-back, Mac H-pipe, BBK t-body 65mm, Timing bumped

    Current rides:
    88 Jeep Cherokee (DD)
    86 Mustang GT (Under construction) Really missing it
    96 Mustang GT (Termi Swapped and fast as hell) June 2013 feature car 5.0 Mustang Magazine
    79 AMC Concord (one day I'll get to it)
    05 Kawasaki ZX6R (636ccs of madness)
    Past rides:
    94 Honda Accord
    87 Mustang GT (first car)

  23. #48
    FEP Power Member jleews6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 408IIII View Post
    What do you guys think about starting with a Victor jr intake and a 850 holley hp carb?
    Thats a good start. If it were my car here is what I would do. After I was done checking all the basics like timing,fuel flow,full throttle and make sure it rolls free I would change some things because at your weight and 119mph it looks like your not even making 400hp so something is missing.

    The intake and carb is a good start and then tune,tune,tune.
    then I would start looking at the cam. It seems small to me for 400 plus CI. but then after changing the cam you might need a looser converter to go with all that new found top end power.

    Be carefull on the cam salection with that low compression.

    The number one thing you can do to make you car run its best is to keep going to the track and tuning what you have. I have helped people pick up so much just by tuning and finding out what each car likes and needs to be effcient.
    A bunch of 85gt's

  24. #49

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    I think you need like 122mph-123mph to get in the 10's
    1986 T-bird
    347,185 AFR,AOD,4.30
    http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_MOV06949.jpg
    11.48@119.27
    (coming soon Tremec 3550)
    pictures:
    http://s174.photobucket.com/albums/w...rinnie/T-bird/
    Jeremy

  25. #50
    FEP Member 408IIII's Avatar
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    Been awhile. First time out to the track this year. Did an intake swap from a weiand stealth to a victor jr. Not the best air at the track tonight. Et around the same as last year but ran almost 2 mph faster.

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