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  1. #1

    Default Has anyone used the MM proportional valve eliminator kit and adj proportional valve?

    The reason I ask is I've stripped my stock prop valve when changing the master cylinder and the OEM piece is proving to be difficult to find. Also, my brakes are still stock. Has installed these with the stock brakes? If anything, I think it will look better under the hood.

    Edit: I realize the title is confusing but I read you have to use the MM adjustable p-valve with the eliminator kit.
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  2. #2
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Hi,

    I have this combination fabbed up now, but not finished yet.

    biggest issue is that kit expects that you have one output to the front brakes from the p-value and pre 87 we have two. So I went to the local auto parts and found a brass 't'. Note that the 't' isn't the same size on all sides. I think the output from the MC is larger than the brake lines.You may need to bring the lines with you.

    If I didn't already have the kit (Christmas present) I'd just go to the auto parts and get the front connector too (I'm pretty sure it is also different size in then out). $20 for 2 pieces of brass is pretty expensive.

    The adjustable valve is going on the firewall like the instructions say.

    Hopefully my center brake line will come in this week so I can finish the install on this.

    Chris
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    FEP Power Member racerxmd's Avatar
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    I have a stock porportion valve on my '86 GT that I no longer need. Let me know if you are interested. Good Luck!

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    I got home and took a picture. Of course then I remembered the auto parts guy couldn't find a 'T' with different inputs, so he found a reducer that went into the T.

    Actually turned out better, since it pushed the driver's side front line back since the stock valve isn't a straight line between the input and output.

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  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member 86GTdriver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccurtin View Post
    I got home and took a picture. Of course then I remembered the auto parts guy couldn't find a 'T' with different inputs, so he found a reducer that went into the T.

    Actually turned out better, since it pushed the driver's side front line back since the stock valve isn't a straight line between the input and output.
    What are the sizes/part numbers of those brass pieces ccurtin?
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  6. #6
    FEP Power Member racerxmd's Avatar
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    Stop what you are doing! This is Very Unsafe! You have a t-fitting that has a Compression fitting on one end. This makes the fitting very unsafe! Please find and use the correct porpotion valve and or brake fitting without the compression fitting. Brake pressure can reach 1200 plus psi. If you Value your life and otheres in your car,you will take my advise. Good Luck!!!!

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member racerxmd's Avatar
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    Exclamation

    Also, the factory porportion valve has different port holes in the valve I believe. That fitting that you used (t-fitting) only has a single port size. You need to have one that can reduce the brake pressure from front to rear. Pryers are with you, Please Be Safe!!

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    he's right, NEVER use a compression fitting in the brake system. they say not to use them in a fuel injected fuel system either.

    cale

  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member flyin5-o's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerxmd View Post
    Also, the factory porportion valve has different port holes in the valve I believe. That fitting that you used (t-fitting) only has a single port size. You need to have one that can reduce the brake pressure from front to rear. Pryers are with you, Please Be Safe!!
    He is using an adjustable prop. valve, however +3 on the comp fitting, don't use it. Have you called MM's tech support? They are very good and should be able to help you find the correct setup.

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Okay, thanks for the heads up, but I'm confused. Where is the compression fitting? Are you talking about the reducer into the T?

    I have spoken with MM and since the car is an 84 they didn't have much information about how to tie the two front brake lines into a single output master cylinder. They had a solution if I was going with a 87+ MC but I'm keeping the stock booster and MC.

    Any tips on where to get a 'T' with the correct ports? I do already have the rear proportioning valve so I just need to figure out the T part.

    Thanks,

    Chris
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  11. #11
    FEP Power Member racerxmd's Avatar
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    You need to use a t-fitting that has all female ports. In other words, you need to be able to thread in the hard brake lines into it. A compression fitting uses a brass feral that slides over the hard brake line. Once you tighten it it will compress around the hard brake line to seal it. These are only used on very low pressure lines like a water suppy for example. Your brake system has high pressure in the range of about 1200 psi. Hope this helps. Good Luck and Be Safe!

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Thanks, if I understand what you're saying I'm okay. The reducer is not a compression fitting, the driver's side brake line threads directly into it. And it is threaded directly into the 'T'.

    I'll take a picture from the front when I get home to be sure that I don't have what you're describing.

    Thanks for the concern and heads up!
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  13. #13
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerxmd View Post
    You need to use a t-fitting that has all female ports. In other words, you need to be able to thread in the hard brake lines into it. A compression fitting uses a brass feral that slides over the hard brake line. Once you tighten it it will compress around the hard brake line to seal it. These are only used on very low pressure lines like a water suppy for example. Your brake system has high pressure in the range of about 1200 psi. Hope this helps. Good Luck and Be Safe!
    Where's the compression fitting? Looks like a T with female inverted flare (correct) and a inverted flare reducer stuck in one. No compression fittings.
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  14. #14
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Here's what I have: all 3 sides are screws for the brake lines:







    For the original poster, if I'm reading the receipt properly the T is 3/16 and the reducer is 1/4 x 3/16. I got them at Advance Auto Parts.

    Thanks for all advice and concerns guys. Rather have someone raise a risk then do something stupid!
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  15. #15
    FEP Power Member racerxmd's Avatar
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    My Bad! Thought you had a compression fitting there. I can sleep now. Good Luck!

  16. #16

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    I've got a good stocker P-valve now but I'm still debating doing the adjustable setup. I just think it would look better. I just found an email from a couple of days ago from Maximum Motorsports about this concerning pre 87 Mustangs.



    "Yes, the adjustable proportioning valve that we sell will work on your car. Normally, this valve is installed in the rear brake line on the passenger side of the firewall, where there is a union in the brake line. The new proportioning valve gets installed between the inlet and outlet that are nearest the radiator (rear brakes). Since you want to use it to replace the stock proportioning valve, this would require some brake line adapters to do this without any cutting or flaring to properly plumb it into your brake system. We can assemble the correct adapters to do this if you are interested, let me know and I can set it up with the sales department."

    Sincerely,
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support
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  17. #17
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Similar to the response I got from MM trying to figure out how to plumb mine.

    Love their customer support. Too bad they don't have this kit off the shelf.
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  18. #18
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Finally got it finished today:

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  19. #19
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Looks pretty good but is the rear line crimped under the master cylinder? Hard to tell in the pic?
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  20. #20
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Schofield View Post
    Looks pretty good but is the rear line crimped under the master cylinder? Hard to tell in the pic?
    No, just the angle of the picture. Without an attachment to the strut tower (like the stock valve has) it was impossible to get them 'square'. Looks better in person.
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  21. #21

    Default Line adapter

    Quote Originally Posted by ccurtin View Post
    Finally got it finished today:

    Hello, I apologize for posting in an old thread but I have not been able to locate a union adapter like the one pictured in the most forward line going to the master cylinder. I believe it to be a one piece 7/16" - 24 x 3/8" - 24 female inverted flare adapter. Could you post a source or part number for such a fitting? Thanks

  22. #22

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    That location is a great spot for the adjustable proportioning valve. It bolts up to the factory holes. Use a 7/16-24 to 1/8" NPT adapter.
    Jeremiah

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  23. #23
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GettyUp View Post
    Hello, I apologize for posting in an old thread but I have not been able to locate a union adapter like the one pictured in the most forward line going to the master cylinder. I believe it to be a one piece 7/16" - 24 x 3/8" - 24 female inverted flare adapter. Could you post a source or part number for such a fitting? Thanks
    Sorry, but that was so long ago I don't have any receipts.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by GettyUp View Post
    Hello, I apologize for posting in an old thread but I have not been able to locate a union adapter like the one pictured in the most forward line going to the master cylinder. I believe it to be a one piece 7/16" - 24 x 3/8" - 24 female inverted flare adapter. Could you post a source or part number for such a fitting? Thanks
    I have the exact same brake line setup on my '85 LTD with Cobra brakes. I am running a 94/95 Cobra master cylinder with Maximum Motorsports MMBAK-9 brake lines coming out of that. I believe the fitting on the front master cylinder port terminates into a 7/16-24 fitting. I could not find a 7/16-24 x 3/8-24 female union so I just adapted from the 7/16-24 to 3/8-24 and then into the union using American Grease Stick (AGS) part number BLF-23B. One extra fitting and potential leak point, but it works fine for me.

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