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  1. #1

    Default 82 GTT ONE:The REARS!

    Hey gang...

    For those of you that don't know me and my mission...lol..

    Short story... me, Alan (a.k.a. Silent Insomnia)... my cars iz a pair of 1982 GT-T-tops, #24 red on both originally.

    GTT2 was purchased back in Dec. of '09 and hasn't had much attention yet, for various reasons. But it's in the stable, parts have been catelogued and preserved... and there will come a day. The entire car is about 98% complete with one important missing part (79 Pace, Cobra, 82 GT Air Dam Support Bar--*not the air dam..I have that*) Ok, enough with my classified... this is about GTT1!

    So, I'll be editing the crap out of this till I get it the way I want it... let's start with that.

    I know I know... it's a Marchal... but around here we prefer *decipticon*... word.

    Ok...
    So let's get this party started... this, folks is GTT1!



    Sorry for the huge buildup but just like the rest of you yo-yo's I really think my car rocks quite well!


    Here are a couple related posts I've made in the past couple years about GTT1.

    This one is about Paint
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=86099
    and this one is about the back end finish up
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=86604



    ..... uh yep, so here's what finally got the "rears" project off the ground. For those of you that say the 7.5 is indestructable... take a GOOD look. I believe we determined a broken spring in the carrier caused all this..but luckily... I was ready.


    Ok.. so a little more about the plan...

    Way back in the day (a few years ago) I was in possession of an 8.8 drum from an 86 GT. Traded it with a drag guy (no that's not what I mean!!) that had an 88' T-Bird Turbo Coupe Rear. For those of u that don't know and don't stick around long enough to find out.. that's an 8.8 with the same Varga disc calipers as the 93' Cobra...... and he wanted to swap back to drum...even swap, and I took him on his word the gears were smooth and good. They were.

    How 'bout some eye candy right about now?
    and feel free to chime in whenever... I'll probably be updating this for quite a while. I'm done with the project... and I have a bohemoth of pics... gonna try my hardest to spread them out.

    U like??


    Ok, so the plan, again was to take the 7.5 out and replace with 8.8

    Here's the day we pulled the 7.5 after the internals started "crackling" during turns...lol
    [IMG]http://vb.foureyedpride.com/picture.php?albumid=2344&pictureid=17983
    [/IMG]

    I have pics from every angle but this is what the 8.8 t-bird rear looked like when we started... like junk.



    As you can see, the dust shields were bent up pretty bad... but I just took my sweet time with them like everything else...(I think the project took a total of 4 months)



    and finally... (for now), this is the shot of the rear end before paint... I threw these old turbines on it after using pallet wrap on the lugs and axle ends *don't need paint all the way up in there*. This made it real easy to roll back and forth as I worked on sanding painting sanding painting sanding painting... u know the drill



    Now, here I'd like to give some local credit to my buddy Joe with his 93 LX. He was gracious enough to jack up his ride and let me snap some shots of his rear brake line setup, so I could go off of it for what was about to come.

    See... (you pros just follow along and correct me where I'm wrong... ya, that means u FC....lol), the old 79-85 Foxes all had a passenger line setup, for using single or dual outlets on the driver's side only for exhaust. So.. this presents a pretty good difficulty when you want to run dual exhaust, or go to any type of an 8.8 brake setup with "relative convenience". Well guess what kiddies, I ain't ur relative but ol' SI is gonna show ya how we do it down here in Texas!!!

    Here's Joe's setup on his stock '93 LX. I took some of his rear "center feed" brake line as well as his e-brake setup.

    This view is lookin up and towards pass side from drivers side, right under one of the mufflers. This is probably one of THE MOST IMPORTANT PICS because it shows the little hardline distribution block you will need (or really want) to find. It is NOT available from FORD!!! You will have to get under a parts car, like I did, and drill, like I did, two rivets... and cut the line if you can't seperate it from the hose. You'll prob. need a new hose anyways.



    Now, also while we're on the subject with that pic above... that thing right next to the brake line mount is called a PINION SNUBBER. Yep... that's something alot of us stock guys haven't seen... at least neither of my 82's have one! Well.. GTT1 does now... but I'll get back to that.

    Ok, back to Joe's stock 93, so this next pic is with camera on the other side of driveshaft, showing how rear center after crossing over between rear seatwall and snubber turns to go towards front of vehicle running along the inside of the trans tube, next to driveshaft.



    after running along trans hump under back seat, the line takes a turn towards pass. side and can be easily joined into our early-model existing passenger line...



    Easy... right??

    Ok, and one final pic from Joe's 93... we have a pretty good pic of the linkage under his e-brake area.... again, we'll come back to this.



    So, back to the task at hand right?? I'm sure so many of you can relate to how the scope of a project can grow... and grow.. and grow. Well, certainly or u prob. wouldn't be here like me.

    Well, this is the old setup... gas tank has big ol' dents on both sides... everything is stock under here, except I had gone ahead with the dual stock h-pipe setup recently and had just made a workaround to ... ahem... work around the rear brake line issue... probably again, like most of you.



    Now, I took ALOT more pics than I'm posting... and I really am trying to narrow it down, but this is a good shot showing the positioning of the stock control arms, w/o an axle in place.... OMG, I just thought of something I'm going to spill the beans on later that will be a LIFESAVER for anyone doing a similar rear-end conversion.

    Again, old setup, once the rear was removed.



    Ok, now... this is an even closer shot of what I'm calling the rear upper frame rail (not sure if that's right but I've been back posting for a day now and no-one's corrected me yet!)... hehe
    This section is important to know as this is where we'll mount the PINION SNUBBER and run our new brake line, and mount our rear brake distribution mount.<--gotta stop doing that.stop.



    Ok, now this next shot gives you a better idea of the problem with pass. side brake line cars.. again I think (all 79-84or85 cars)all 86-93 with single exhaust?

    So what happens is once the rear is compressed to ride height, there's almost no way around that right side exhaust hump to get to any distribution block modified, much less the stock one that sits on the 7.5 axle housing RIGHT NEXT TO IT!



    Ok.. back to the fun stuff.. remember those EBC dimpled black rotors??

    Oh yeah!



    This is the replacement tank I picked up somewhere... can't for the life of me remember where but it's in very very good shape, in and out. I taped off the openings with gorilla tape before sanding the bottom a bit and then coating with a several lights coats of flat black, sanding in between coats. It came out pretty good but I just did the bottom so hopefully won't bother the integrity of the tank, humidity, moisture, all that. This shot is BEFORE the paint...


    At this point I still don't believe I thought there was much progress... it just goes SO SLOW...
    This is the rear all ready for cleaning/stripping/cleaning, etc with exhaust and control arms removed, everything taped off that it staying the way it is..*left shocks in cuz I'm lazy like that*..



    Here's my buddy walking by.. as he's sanding, thanks again Jacob for all the help! Dan too!


    Ok... so, after just a few minutes of DAYS AND DAYS OF BACK BREAKING CLEANING!!!!... here we have... a CLEAN 82 underbody! Voila! (oven cleaner x 10 cans + brush divided by 4 mixings of simple green - about 40 rags = CLEAN.



    .....................

    SI
    Last edited by SilentInsomnia; 06-08-2011 at 06:13 PM.
    Smile, it's an easy thing you have complete control over that takes less work than the alternative.

    Have:

    '82 GT T-top #24 Red x 2

  2. #2

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    Now we're getting somewhere. I'm almost done posting my first section of pictures/progress... *about 30 or so pics* and then I'll pause for a few days to begin processing more photos...lol

    Here's one more pretty cool pic I took under there once everything was pretty clean. I covered the tranny with plastic, then a sheet, then taped around it.



    No, actually this is about what the stable looks like all the time!!!



    Now, they had some tutes about fuel pickups on here recently. This is what the 82's looks like. No problems with it. To remove you tap the locking ring with a rubber mallet counterclockwise till it spins free, then carefully lift the unit out.



    Now.. after getting in this far.. I decided I'd better throw some cool stuff in back there...what with the rotors and all... ok.. and EBC Red Pads...



    Yes, again, thanks Jacob for an awesome red clear on those calipers!!!



    anyway... how's this for cool? These are the CE Spherical Upper Rear End bushing for the 8.8. Now let me tell u... yes.. the are worth the price... but be prepared to pay in other ways too!!! Muw wha ha ha !!



    BTW, for those of u that asked.. the idea has been now for about a year that GTT1 is being set-up for drifting. So for those of u with the great idea about disc brackets for an 8.8 drum axle.. I know. I chose to stick with the T-bird axle and extra width for an advantage later in drifting... we'll see.

    SI
    Last edited by SilentInsomnia; 06-08-2011 at 06:24 PM.
    Smile, it's an easy thing you have complete control over that takes less work than the alternative.

    Have:

    '82 GT T-top #24 Red x 2

  3. #3

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    Alright, so this is the new 8.8 t-bird axle, freshly painted.. (I say fresh but it's a few coats of aluminum engine enamel, wet sanding and dry in-between coats, with clear on top and a bit o' purple flake!



    As we began to install the upper bearings, we quickly realized that there might be more to this than just "puttin em in..". Apparently the casting on the driver's side ear was cast about 1/16" thicker!!!



    Because this one ear was thicker, the bushing that the bearing rides in wouldn't fit through all the way. We therefore couldn't get the snap ring to sit on it... and let me tell u if u don't know... you can't "find" that extra 1/16 in this situation... This meant the only way for them to go into THIS axle was to modify it. We can do that!



    The thing that Jacob really stressed to me when he was helping me was that he had to get that taper back in, all the way around. So between taking the 1/16th out, and then retapering the whole edge... it took a while. We used my trusty rotozip with some sort of stone bit on it... worked great!



    Now... I want to throw this in for u painter guys.. I've done a bit of painting recently.. and I just friggin' love this thing I found.... here's a pic of it.



    I got mine at Oreilly but I think autozone has them too. I'll never do another paint project without it.... promise.

    Sometimes it gets difficult finding room for parts...



    Ok, and now u can see some better shots of how clean I got the underskin...

    In order to make sure the snubber ends up in the right spot, and check on how the brake dist. was going to work out, I had to mock up the new rear end before actually installing it. So.. threw the new tube control arms in place and just bolted in right up!!



    OMG<____> I wish it was that easy. SPOILER ALERT!!!!! Ok, this something no-one told me... but I figured it out.. the hard way. If you are using the spherical upper bearings or are having trouble installing ANY rear end, please read this. As you can see from some of the pics, I used a furniture dolly most of the time rolling the rear end around the garage. When we initially tried to mock it up... we gradually in no particular order started installed the control arms to the attacment points. Once we got to the 3rd point on the rear *I believe it was one of the uppers*, we had to back off and start all over. See, because of some level of ZERO PLAY in those sphericals, you MUST hook up both uppers FIRST, then one of the lowers, then... and here's my secret... just squat into the wheel well in front of the last lower connection and push BACK towards the back of the car as your buddy slips the last bolt in! If you don't understand what I'm talking about then it probably doesn't apply to you.



    Did someone say something about every nut and bolt??? These were all rust treated, then sanded, then rust treated, then satin black wheel coating, then wet final.



    So... let's get back to this whole brakes thing...

    For starters.. I found a '90 5.0 LX that a guy was parting out and didn't mind me taking "rear brake stuff". I think I paid $20 for the lines and two dual exhaust muffler brackets.

    This is what the line looks like from the '90 LX. You will see that the axle line has our special "bracket" dangling on the other end of the rear main center hose.... that the piece we really needed.



    Now, the plan is to get a hose that would work with that must dist. block and the t-bird axle line (below) which is actually larger diameter lines than typical 8.8 lines I found on that 90 LX.

    Also, you can see that while the mustang lines (above) have an offset bracket that comes as part of the hose.. the t-bird lines do not, but rather have a hard mount block that bolts in right on the side of the pumpkin... much much more accessible in my opinion!



    I'm gonna change the subject again briefly and throw this special thanks in to the P.O. You son of a biscuit you!!! This is the shot of where my new Lakewood safety loop is SUPPOSED to bolt in...

    Last edited by SilentInsomnia; 06-13-2011 at 08:05 PM.
    Smile, it's an easy thing you have complete control over that takes less work than the alternative.

    Have:

    '82 GT T-top #24 Red x 2

  4. #4

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    Ok, well... it did end up fitting right in front of that plate... but JUST BARREEELLY!! Good job p.o.! I can't believe it fit... but it did.

    I guess if we're going to drift her... we'd better add even more structural reinforcement though...



    Here... let me open the door and give you a better view...



    Now is where I really thank the p.o. yet again... see, he was a machinist by trade.. and he worked up these awesome floor pieces... (1/4" thick) and welded them in... so this t-top is in pretty good shape..."on the floor" as J-Lo says... he he..

    There were a couple spots out in front that were through holes.. I just patched with new aluminum and sealed it in before paint. And yes, those are the bolts from my safety loop that DID fit!!



    Now, here's a better shot of the back. These upper and lower torque box reinforcements we added are incredible. I must say though that after installing them, and done ALOT of research on them, it seems like I installed mine correctly (notice the slight angle on each of the upper plates) and possibly alot of others out there just simply aren't tight enough. They got REALLY tight and hard to turn at one point and were still pretty straight, but once they started to truly tighten up, they had gone alot further (the bolts are pretty long) and by then the plates had started angling out.. (err in..)

    And ya, I taped off my cables dude...



    And guess what else I've been painting!! (ok, I did alot of research also on painting exhaust... yes, with exhaust paint.., just not alot of data out there yet.. *translated--not even stupid people like me) We'll see what happens..



    Yes.. as a matter of fact.. I do have IT bad...



    This is a close-up of the t-bird line after I've prepped it for paint...



    ****I guess I'm like Sherwin.... I would cover the world... if i could afford too...lol**

    Ok ok, enough pretty.. this is a shot I took of where I stopped the stripping/cleaning/underpaint process.(at the crossmember).. I will hopefully pick back up there in a spring or two..when I go for tube K.



    This is pretty hysterical... take a look at this pic.. that top left looks pretty nasty still... now this is when I had the rear mocked up, installing safety loop, etc.... in a later pic you'll notice that top left is cleaned up more....lol... I just never stop cleaning.



    This is a shot I thought to take at the last minute before black paint hit these upper reinforcement plates. Just wanted to show how they sit up in the upper CA mounting points and re-inforce the crap out of them... if pulled up all the way... right??



    Again, I used a furniture dolly and blocks of wood to manuever the rear end around the garage the whole time.... it worked nicely, but be sure to have short and long pieces, skinny and fat, 2x4 and 4x4 and even a couple 1by's are nice...



    Here I'm getting quite a bit closer to actually throwing the paint on the underside...



    Wait!!! Got...to.. clean.. a little more.



    Ok, and this is one last shot I took to show how the lower plates fit up into the lower torque boxes.... on first glance it seems like they won't fit, but they turn up into the torque box holes... the lower control arm is then bolted in and snugged... the holes for the plates (pictured earlier) are then in the right spot and the holes can just be drilled right through. Those 4 bolts are then installed and tightened. From what I've read lower ca should be tightened when car is finally under load again.



    I want to take this spot to remind anyone that's reading this to please be careful. You guys know this but you should never be working under a car without some method of getting help. If you don't have a buddy helping you, make sure you're within earshot of someone or have a telephone handy and the garage open, etc. You might be a badass mechanic but no-one is a bad--ass at not making mistakes.

    Smile, it's an easy thing you have complete control over that takes less work than the alternative.

    Have:

    '82 GT T-top #24 Red x 2

  5. #5

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    I think it's only fair to point out, if you're reading this far in... the entire project took about 2-3 months. I worked many many many hours on it.. and days. Didn't have time to post progress then.. too much fiddle faddle with the pics and all, so I just shot the pics and I'm throwin' it all down for ya now fellas...

    So, to continue.. the rear brake distribution... ahh yes. Here's some of the parts you'll need.

    This hose was listed I believe for only the Turbo Coupe's.. I'll see if I can track the number if someone needs it but it has a half moon (solid edge on one edge) straight line fitting (fits perfect into the mustang dist. mount-also pictured). That's on one end of the hose, the other end is for a banjo bolt (WASHERS ON BOTH SIDES) to fit through and into block previously mentioned mounted on pumpkin. I also used this steel corner brace. This is necessary to turn the hose out to the rear you'll actually have your dist. mount rivited to this and this corner brace bolted in... you'll see...



    figure out your holes.... carefully.



    same over here...



    and voila!!



    Ok, so this is the place on the "rear upper frame rail" where this all attaches to...
    Look closely at the two diagonal holes....umm.. that.. umm.. FORD ALREADY HAS THERE FOR YOU!!!!


    Wow... yes wow.. I didn't know this about production runs.. I do now!

    And here's a shot of the regular body bolts I found that went in like a glove (after chasing threads mind u!)



    Ok, this next shot shows alot.. .but it's mostly black... haha ha ha!! But seriously, you can see my new line there I ran in front of snubber-to-be locale.. across to the dist. mount setup on the left. Now also... there's some rivnuts I've started in on up there for mounting the snubber.



    These are like 5/16 rivnuts... about some of the biggest I could find. I've been using them for awhile all over the car... and if you're not familiar with them... stay tuned. This is the RIVNUT INSTALLATION TOOL.


    See the way a rivnut works is kinda like a rivet. You drill a hole. You insert the rivnut, the with two box wrenches, you directly counter-turn at the same time trying to center the energy from both wrenches to "pull-up" the rivnut, clamping the metal around it just like a rivet. Difference is, it gives you this cool threaded hole to mount whatever you want to!!

    This is a cinched up rivnut...



    And this is a pic of both rivnuts, one cinched, one not yet.... I put these in for the snubber to bolt to.



    So.. I'm sorry I keep bouncing around so much..



    There's A LOT of tape to get through..



    This is the new hard fuel line I made, since my skills were needing tuning for the upcoming brake prop. valve install..



    I made up some little mounting braces with rubber inserts



    Ok.. ya, this guy is proud of his little metal tabs.
    Well..I'm also way too careful..

    EVERYTHING WAS INSTALLED WRAPPED...



    (sorry, I have this fixation with pallet wrap)
    Oh... and in the FWIW department, the lakewood safety loop told me to install to loosest setting (there are 2). So I did. Luckily I left those 4 adjustment bolts without loctite though in preparation that my H-pipe would require the tighter (laterally higher) adjustment. So, then we moved the h-pipe and I re-adjusted.... son of a *&(8*.... he he...

    Ok, I guessed on this one as well and cut around the tips on these pads... look ok?



    Oh, btw, those are the EBC red track pads.. we'll see how they do.

    Now I have another good little side story... see I knew you could load these calipers off-car and put them on.. because you can buy them loaded! But I didn't understand after a couple good hours and one short lesson on gloves how to get the damn anti-rattle clips in there!! So I conceeded that evening and took all the crap to Midas the next morning. Stood by and watched the first seasoned vet just turn and walk away, to let the GM and underling try their best for 30 min. before sending me away telling me to contact EBC!! ... umm. no. Ok... first... if the clips are going in real hard ---no I didn't have paint on those surfaces!!---take a look at the ends of the new pads where they ride in the clips. Mine needing a short filing on each end of each pad.
    The other big secret is... it really is alot easier to load them first, but you have to WEAR GLOVES... know how the clips go in.. and when you set down the first two clips, set them to the side closest to you and furthest from caliper. Set each end barely in the clips and then gradually as you push the pad into the assembly, rotate it into the final resting position, up against the close side of the assembly. The side of the assembly will hold the pad upright so you can put the other pad in the opposite way. Good luck!



    Ohh.. I've been waiting to post this pic. So, after all the planning.. and really I could not find a whole lot of reference to this rear line conversion... this is where all of it paid off.



    As you can see, the hose sits perfectly and "s" shapes with the movement of the rear. The lines are therefore the stock t-bird from that hose back and retain the stock clean look all the way through!

    You can also see my pinion snubber installed there. Only afterthought so far is it really is NOISY! Anyone have suggested on to quiet it down? I don't think it should be bolted for adjustment.. so maybe some silicone around the adjust pin that comes with it? or silicone coated on the whole thing.

    Last edited by SilentInsomnia; 06-15-2011 at 07:18 PM.
    Smile, it's an easy thing you have complete control over that takes less work than the alternative.

    Have:

    '82 GT T-top #24 Red x 2

  6. #6

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    So here's where we're at... .exhaust and rear end installed.. brakes, gas tank... sure all goes in fast after all that painting and waiting...getting closer!!



    MMM.... mmm. mm.mmmmmm ...mmm .mm!


    I went out and got new hardware (grade to reinstall the driver's seat re-inforcement... Torqued them suckers down too!!







    I decided to start with just using the stock master cylinder and booster and just introducing an adjustable prop. valve. Again, after lookiing at all my options I settled on the Wilwood 5 Port Adj. Valve from Summit. Works great.
    And my right-angle drill worked great installing it... really I think I only drilled one hole to install!



    A little paint goes a long long way...



    Oh.. this is funny.. you're gonna like this. Here's the lines I made for upfront... watch...lol





    Ok, now the funny part... I was able to make my lines so that they wrap my clutch cable. For whatever reason (not sure if this is it...) the clutch cable seems so much smoother now. It's a stock cable only a few years old with a steeda ajd. quadrant, but running the lines like this really seems to work quite well!



    This thing is SO much stiffer than it ever was before!!... look at this shot... one jackstand.



    And this is one more thing I decided last minute. Ok, I really didn't want to do all this painting and not have it last a summer or two... so ....



    Check this out.... thank you big time to E-bay for providing these gems at the perfect time(as always!)!!!



    Really??? Yes... and I know you prob. don't like the splash guards... but that's why I'm putting them on my car, not yours.



    I leveled up the car on jackstands to put these on... then me and my rivnut machine went to town..









    Last edited by SilentInsomnia; 06-15-2011 at 07:38 PM.
    Smile, it's an easy thing you have complete control over that takes less work than the alternative.

    Have:

    '82 GT T-top #24 Red x 2

  7. #7

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    That's it!! Elvis has left the building... for now. Oh, and thanks for putting up with that annoying spot in the upper right of every picture.



    Thanks again for the great support FEP!!
    Smile, it's an easy thing you have complete control over that takes less work than the alternative.

    Have:

    '82 GT T-top #24 Red x 2

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member tORMENtOR's Avatar
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    Cool thread & nice detail work. I love those rotors was gonna get those for my black Coupe years back,cool stuff.

  9. #9

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    Hey guys.. I found a few more pics from a show I had the car in a few weeks back. Thought u might like..

    SI























    ok ok... no more pics till next build. I promise!



    SI
    Smile, it's an easy thing you have complete control over that takes less work than the alternative.

    Have:

    '82 GT T-top #24 Red x 2

  10. #10

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    Nice work! Did you weld the torque box reinforcements, or just bolt them in and done? I want to get some for structural piece of mind.
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by banzaibullitt View Post
    Nice work! Did you weld the torque box reinforcements, or just bolt them in and done? I want to get some for structural piece of mind.

    Thanks! I haven't welded them yet. Still have the back seats out because of that!! I think I'm just gonna have them tack a few spots around the perimeter of the plates. My nuts were plastic thread type that came with it so I guess they won't back off. I had seen in my research though that some people just welded the nuts up top as well. Also saw a guy that seamed each plate with weld all the way around... I think that's prob. overkill though.. and I'm the master of overkill...lol

    SI
    Smile, it's an easy thing you have complete control over that takes less work than the alternative.

    Have:

    '82 GT T-top #24 Red x 2

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member 82stangracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilentInsomnia View Post
    Hey guys.. I found a few more pics from a show I had the car in a few weeks back. Thought u might like..
    Hey can I put a couple of these pics in my '82 album?
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=106002
    Chris

    Had
    Too many that I wish I'd kept!

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    69 Mach 1 "M" Code
    82 GT 308(my 1st stang)
    82 GT T-top (a new beginning) Rebuild Thread
    71 Torino GT

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82stangracer View Post
    Hey can I put a couple of these pics in my '82 album?
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=106002
    Sure! 82's all the way baby!!

    SI
    Smile, it's an easy thing you have complete control over that takes less work than the alternative.

    Have:

    '82 GT T-top #24 Red x 2

  14. #14
    FEP Power Member 82stangracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilentInsomnia View Post
    Sure! 82's all the way baby!!

    SI
    Thanks for sharing!! Just added a few.
    Chris

    Had
    Too many that I wish I'd kept!

    Have
    69 Mach 1 "M" Code
    82 GT 308(my 1st stang)
    82 GT T-top (a new beginning) Rebuild Thread
    71 Torino GT

  15. #15

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    And... here are a couple pics of GTT ONE during the recent drifting trip. After testing the current setup, it's quite obvious there's a big need for things up front again, but I saw that coming. Since these drifting pics I've added a steeda strut tower brace (will have pics shortly) and have noticed huge improvement on the street. Will update again late August hopefully with pics from that event and strut bar in!! Maybe even more by then!





    ...
    and here is before the strut tower brace...



    and after... including a piece of 1/8 thick steel plate just behind firewall bolts. All bolts were purchased new as Grade 8 and torqued down with removable locktite.



    L8r ya'll!

    SI
    Last edited by SilentInsomnia; 07-21-2011 at 12:44 AM.
    Smile, it's an easy thing you have complete control over that takes less work than the alternative.

    Have:

    '82 GT T-top #24 Red x 2

  16. #16
    FEP Power Member
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    Mississauga, ON
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    VERY COOL!!! Love this thread!

  17. #17

    Wink

    Haven't been around in a while, but thanks for all the great comments!! We just got back from the first drift event here in Texas this season.. roll bar is coming along though there will be more modifications to come...

    Here's a teaser though...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4aHm4Zky6E

    It's not much.. half way through the day.. but the car's performing solid. More sway bar and some adjustable shocks and I think we'll be there!.. (ya, right...lol)

    SI
    Smile, it's an easy thing you have complete control over that takes less work than the alternative.

    Have:

    '82 GT T-top #24 Red x 2

  18. #18
    FEP Senior Member PaulFORD8's Avatar
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    Nice work, and you have done a ton of it! car looks great!
    1979 Mustang Cobra 2011 Coyote 5.0, 8.8 w/3.73, PA C4.
    2010 Taurus SHO Livernois tune, Eibach Pro-Kit, Magnaflow, Airaid.
    2007 Escape 3.0 V6

  19. #19
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    amazing attention to detail. Really makes the car stand out.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  20. #20
    FEP Super Member 79mustangcobra's Avatar
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    Dec 2002
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    Greenville, SC
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    Well documented and detail!
    1979 Mustang Cobra 5.0
    2P Red and 1C Black

    Stock never goes out of style
    MCA #70281 - 79-93 MCA Concours Judge
    Proverbs 3:5-6



    My Mustang Story
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...71#post1688371

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