Rear end options

[Bob Barker]

Would it be better to source some aftermarket axles and gears for the factory 7.5 or find an 8.8 from a junkyard?

I read someone's thread on swapping rear ends in an SVO and they had to modify some brackets, change break lines and parts and ended up not being able to use the factory quad shocks. I would rather not have to do any of that if there is a source for stronger than factory axles and carrier out there somewhere.

If the swap were easier I would probably go that route, but even then it's not a built rear end and will most likely be out of an unknow mileage junk yard car and need new or stronger parts, at least eventually.

So does anyone know of a source for stronger parts for the 7.5"?

[SchoolBoy]

I don't know of any but I'm sure there out there. I do want to toss this out there.... http://www.americanmuscle.com/swarr-...ear-86-04.html I remember reading the artical that MM&FF did on this and it seamed to help. I don't think it would be to hard to make one to fit the 7.5 and if it helps great!

[Bob Barker]

http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList....D=159&CatID=20

A site I found selling 28 spline 7.5 Ford parts. Wonder if they are any stronger than factory parts.

[DanielFrew]

Just pick up a 8.8 and swap the parts you need.

Dan

[cliffdiver86]

Just pick up a 8.8 and swap the parts you need.

Dan

+1

8.8's are alott stronger than 7.5's imo

[Mike Croke]

8.8" and 7.5" rear ends use the same axle shafts. What typically fails in the 7.5" is not the axle shaft, it is usually the differential. For the cost of installing a stronger differential, it is less expensive to get an 8.8" from a '86-'93 V8 car and swap the SVO axle shafts and brake hardware.

[Bob Barker]

So if my car has SN95 breaks, would those fit onto an 8.8 from the 86-93 cars or should I look for an 8.8 from the appropriate year model the breaks are from?

[Mike Croke]

Which SN95 brakes are you using?

The '86-'04 Mustang 8.8" rear end housings are the same. However, there are different length axle shafts over the years that place the rotor at different positions. Along with the various axle shafts are a variety of caliper brackets to position the assortment of calipers properly.

Stock Fox axles are about 29-3/16" long per side. This is measuring from the innermost part of the axle to the outer flange the rotor seats against. The '94-'98 axle shafts are about 3/4" longer per side than a stock Fox axle. The '99-'04 are closer to 1-1/2" per side. Your original SVO axle shafts are about 1-1/4" per side longer than stock Fox axles.

[Bob Barker]

I will have to go back to the receipts I have to see if they specify what year breaks.

With that info, I could pick out an 8.8 axle from the junk yard and find the appropriate brackets to get the breaks to line up? From there how would I source the correct length "stronger axles" and I suppose the differential would fit no matter which axle length is needed, right? What if I wanted 31 spline axles? Are those offered in different lengths? I imagine so...

[Bob Barker]

Err... maybe I'm overthinking this. Just get an 8.8" rear end, build to what I want and then bolt in and find the right brackets for the breaks to fit, right?

Only real specific is if I want axles the right length so I don't have wheels sticking out looking silly, right?

[Mike Croke]

If I'm understanding correctly, you have a 7.5" rear with SN95 brakes on it already? And you want to make the rear stronger?

If that is the case, get any 8.8" rear from any '86-'04 V8 Mustang. Upgrade the differential as you deem fit for your use, then transfer axle shafts and brakes from your 7.5" to the 8.8". As far as I know, the housings did not change during that time, only the axle shaft length and brake components.

8.8" rears were also found in other vehicles like Rangers and F-150s but there are significant differences in the various flanges for control arms that will prevent bolting them in.

[jeffcrummel]

I can't understand why you would want to do the swap. FRPP ring and pinions are Kryo'd now from what I understand and I am more than sure they are available for 7.5 as well. And you stated you didn't want to build the 8.8 to do the swap so save your money on purchacing one.

Unless I have a couple of screws loose I don't see a turbo 4 banger having the torque to break a well set up 7.5 unless you have quite the combo there.

[Bob Barker]

I couldn't find any differentials when I looked around the other day. If they are out there for the 7.5 then I will find it soon enough and would rather go that route.

The reason I continued with the swap talk is someone said the cost would be less to find a junk yard 8.8 and put it in rather than having a new 7.5 differential installed.

I will probably give it a shot trying to install a new differential on my own to save some money.

Thanks for everyone's input!

[bscottie]

I am looking at doing a rebuild on my 7.5, with stock horsepower I don't see the need for an 8.8, a good set of fresh axles, new ring & pinion things should last another 25+ years

[Bob Barker]

I'm really hoping to be well above stock horsepower some day.

[wraithracing]

If you are planning a bunch of extra power, then you might be better off moving up to an 8.8.

Honestly the 7.5 in the SVO is a pretty good rearend in most situations.

You can rebuild your differential and do all the same clutch tricks to it that guys do to the 8.8 for better traction or you could buy this if you would rather swap a new one in.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-28spline-75-lsd.html

If you don't have the experience and the tools to do a ring&pinion swap, then I would highly recommend you have a shop do the work.

Unless you are planning over 350HP and similiar torque in your SVO, I would stick with the 7.5, but that's me.


Trey

[turbotom]

The 7.5 is strong but the 8.8 is better,Jeg's used to sell a 7.5 or a 8.8 girdle that replaces rear cover and has two bolts that tightnen down to the center of the two carrier bearings further strengthening the carrier. Throw the quad shock set up out, it's not needed. I use double hyme joint upper control arms setting pinion angle to -2 deg. and lower control arms (tubular) with anti squat brackets that prevents the vehicle from squatting during launch and also adds anti dive under sever braking the nose will not dive. I have owned a 1979 Mustang 2.3 turbo draw thru system that has been highly modified since new in 79. Engine and suspension has been highly modified (10.93 @122.33) and the biggest improvement you will make is switching to a 92-93 5.0 world class T5 with carbon fiber blocker rings and a full close ratio 3:35 to 1 first gear ratio. with a 8.8 and 4:10 gears. Trust me this is a whole new driving experience using this transmission. The swap is made easy by going to Rapido's web site (MERKER Performance) and for just over $20.00 the sell a input shaft bushing that replaces the caged neddle bearing (OEM) 2.3, the only hard part is using small cold chisels you must cut out the OEM pilot neddle bearing, go slow as it is spring steel. It is then a simple stright forward swap of T-5s. I'm running all Chev SS intake and exhaust valves and springs and keepers, Crane roller and Joe Lunati reworked 2 sets of rods in that he removed the OEM 5/16" Ford rod bolts and installed 427 Chev 7/16" rod bolts and the bottom end will live up to 8000rpm but I never get there with a MSD 6 AL with rev limiter set to 6300 rpm. A Dport head was used as it flows beter than oem oval port head and the alum draw thru intake was tig welded up in the intake runners and a D port gasket was used to make the intake a true D port intake manifold by grinding and port matching intake, gasket, and head. AT3/T4oe custom turbo with a .48AR ratio for instant spool up and a Holly 500 cfm carb. I used to be with Slot Car Mustangs out of Houston TX. as we ran the world challang series. If I can help or assist contact me Tom Woolsey, twoolseyx@aaol.com