Making a 2.3t survive.......

[Evil86lx]

....in a road racing environment.

The GT turbo is destined to be a track whore.

Light weight, lots of suspension and a mild 2.3t should get it done.

I figure lots or intercooler, solid AFs, big exhaust, stockish to mild turbo should get the job done as far as power is concerned.

Now lets discuss how to keep it alive for 20 min track sessions in 100 degree heat.

Heat management will probably be the biggest issue. A good oil cooler will be a must along with a large radiator boxed in to keep air flow where it needs to be.

Now how about the rest?

Opinions? Ideas? Lets hear them.

kyle

[cliffdiver86]

-FMIC
-Aftermarket electric fan/fan(s)
-3 core aluminum radiator
160-180 degree thermostat
Oil coolers for the motor and trans?

Thats about all i can think of =P

[martin0660]

Pop over to TruboFord.net, search everything "Horsewidower" has written on the topic.

[RichV]

horsewidower has a cool build but stuff keeps breaking on it.

[Evil86lx]

I folowed his thread over at the AI board. He has taken that car much farther than I would have. Not looking for a AI ground pounder. Just something with around 250hp and reliable.

Working on the car instead of driving the car can get boring and be a real downer when it interferes with track time.

kyle

[martin0660]

horsewidower has a cool build but stuff keeps jbreaking on it.

I don't know, I learn as much from failure as I do from success

[Evil86lx]

I don't know, I learn as much from failure as I do from success

Agree. However after you loose a gasket and oil down the whole road course taking away from other peoples track time they might not see the wisdom in this.

kyle

[Evil86lx]

I was also thinking a turbo blanket and possibly some ceramic coating or header wrap on the down pipe and exhaust manifold.

Anyone think wrapping or coating the intercooler pipes is worth it? Anyone actually get some before and after inlet temps.

kyle

[neald]

I dont think you should wrap the intercooler pipes as they may actually keep heat in instead of radiating and cooling the air inside. I would paint them flat black to dissipate heat quicker. Heat extractors on the hood may also help evacuate heat from under the hood and draw in cool air from grill area.

[martin0660]

However after you loose a gasket and oil down the whole road course ...

Completely agree, I guess my point was that I learn from everyones failures, as well as successes, and try to avoid their same fate.

[martin0660]

I was also thinking a turbo blanket and possibly some ceramic coating or header wrap on the down pipe and exhaust manifold.

I'm a drag racer with a street car, but have really put some effort into thermal management this year after seeing some temp data ... I have coated my header, use a turbine blanket, have my downpipe wrapped, plug boots, etc ... All my intercooler pipes will be bare aluminum. The cone filter is just on there to keep stuff out, fabrication of a cold air intake is on the list.



Also paying some attention to details like airflow to intercooler. I have mine sealed not so any air coming into the lower air dam opening is going to the core (This still needs a lower filler strip below the core) ....



I also added an angle across the bottom of the core support with a flap to make low(er)?? pressure behind the radiator and intercooler. Have been debating on how to make one of the shelby extractors work on my hood, closing the cowl opening, etc ... All efforts for thermal management.

[Daggysvo]

Nice work there Martin. Boxing the ic is important and often over looked. If you don't force the air to go through it will take the path of least resistance which is very seldom the core only.

[nic'd]

I took my svo to some HPDEs in the texas summer heat. These are some of the things that I think made it last:

-fox body 5L moshimoto(sp?) radiator
-black magic extreme fan
-180* tstat; maybe 165, i cant remember
-no a/c stuff, esp condenser
-stock oil cooler
-ported e6 with super60 t3
-full 3" exhaust
-a237 cam, straight up
-all amsoil synthetic fluids
-stock intercooler housing w/ upgraded core
-BPV
-cold air
-chucks poly motor mounts, poly trans mount

It probably made about 250hp at 18psi, which is where i ran it on track days. Didn't want to push it too hard. The cyl head cooling is the weak point on these motors. I didnt have a water or oil temp gauge, but the stock water temp indicator never got over a third of the way across. Before the radiator, with the stock cooling system, i could get it to 2/3s across the gauge just with enthusiastic street driving.

Had the power steering pump puking issue. I used a trans cooler as a secondary PS cooler after the stock "loop of tubing" cooler. I also found a piece of a radiator hose at the parts store and made an extended neck for the pump.

I monitored the AFR with an Innovate LM1. Stock PE, stock injectors, adjustable FPR, 255lph in tank. The ecu commands crazy rich at WOT, so i dont think i had to adjust the fuel pressure over stock. Left the timing stock, 10* w/ spout out. Shifted at 6k.

With the suspension I had on it, it was a blast to drive. Complete MM front and rear. 03 Cobra IRS w/ 4.10s and torsen t2r. Delrin & heim joints everywhere. Bilsteins coil overs w/ 425 front and 550 rear springs. I was running some stock wheels (heavy bastards) with Kuhmo V700s. Full subframes and a MM bolt in 6 pt cage. Fun car. Had lots of compliments about keeping the 2.3 in it.

The only failure i had was the stock corrugated stainless turbo oil drain line fatigue cracked on one of the corrugations. It took me forever to find that friggin leak. It wouldnt leak with the car at idle because the vacuum in the crankcase was sucking air in through the crack. I finally happened to remove the oil fill cap and the oil started pouring out. A quick trackside fix (rtv, o-ring, dr pepper can, hose clamps) and i was back out.

[RichV]

That's good to hear. My SVO breaks down if I get too close to a race track (strip or road course). Did one HPDE weekend and all day Sunday spent replacing a head gasket. But drove 2 Hot Rod Power Tours without issues. lol

Were your SVO laps comparable to CMC #s?

[nic'd]

That's good to hear. My SVO breaks down if I get too close to a race track (strip or road course). Did one HPDE weekend and all day Sunday spent replacing a head gasket. But drove 2 Hot Rod Power Tours without issues. lol

Were your SVO laps comparable to CMC #s?

They were all hpde's with no lap timing. Had a friend at one of the events with his cmc mustang. I'll ask him what he thinks.

Also remembered that I have arp head studs and the felpro stock replacement head gasket (not the high performance one).

[wraithracing]

Hey Nick!

Glad you finally showed up!

I would rag on you some more, but your track whore runs and drives and mine still needs the engine assembled and installed in the car before I can start talking smack!

Ok, enough of hijacking this thread!

I will say, Nick knows a thing or two about SVO's, so its good advice here!

Trey

[bosscar]

Unleaded racing gas - 106 octane I think, by Trick racing gas or something similar. My car would start pinging (bad) by lap 2 or 3 with 92 octane pump gas. The pinging would result in cracked pistons at the wrist pins. Especially the #4 piston at the back.

Change the power steering reservoir to one that will let you remotely mount a separate reservoir off the engine somewhere. I long time ago I actually used the extension adaptor that fit my stock pump from an Escort with the Escort dipstick. It gave the fluid about an extra 5 or 6 inches of room to expand, but the fluid still managed to push the dipstick out of the adaptor and spray all over the place, so I had to use duct tape to keep it from popping out. A remote setup would be ideal.

The engines are really tuff right from the factory. Just don't let them ping under load and you will be fine. I never had any kind of overheating problem road racing it, but the engine was just stock. I ran it up to 15 lbs of boost but racing gas is a must for sure.

[frankenstang91]

If your looking for the stockish' power of 250hp. I've been able to get by with a ranger/explorerer radiator and large NPR setup with out any problems. If you don't have and E6 manifold you should get one and practice hogging that bad boy out. Finally, and simply, ditch the stock exhaust and get a free flowing exhaust set up. I'm using a stingers 3in down pipe and mid pipe that splits to 2.5in and mufflers of your choice. Those few things make these lilttle ponies a riot to drive. My co-worker kicks himself every time I pass him in his 89' stock 5.slow.lol

[Jax Rhapsody]

I dont think you should wrap the intercooler pipes as they may actually keep heat in instead of radiating and cooling the air inside. I would paint them flat black to dissipate heat quicker. Heat extractors on the hood may also help evacuate heat from under the hood and draw in cool air from grill area.

Somewhere I drew a picture of a turboed Vic and it had I/C pipes sticking out of the hood. I drew those pipes with heat sinks on them. What if you could heat sink the turbo to i/c pipe?

[Evil86lx]

I took my svo to some HPDEs in the texas summer heat. These are some of the things that I think made it last:

-fox body 5L moshimoto(sp?) radiator
-black magic extreme fan
-180* tstat; maybe 165, i cant remember
-no a/c stuff, esp condenser
-stock oil cooler
-ported e6 with super60 t3
-full 3" exhaust
-a237 cam, straight up
-all amsoil synthetic fluids
-stock intercooler housing w/ upgraded core
-BPV
-cold air
-chucks poly motor mounts, poly trans mount

It probably made about 250hp at 18psi, which is where i ran it on track days. Didn't want to push it too hard. The cyl head cooling is the weak point on these motors. I didnt have a water or oil temp gauge, but the stock water temp indicator never got over a third of the way across. Before the radiator, with the stock cooling system, i could get it to 2/3s across the gauge just with enthusiastic street driving.

Had the power steering pump puking issue. I used a trans cooler as a secondary PS cooler after the stock "loop of tubing" cooler. I also found a piece of a radiator hose at the parts store and made an extended neck for the pump.

I monitored the AFR with an Innovate LM1. Stock PE, stock injectors, adjustable FPR, 255lph in tank. The ecu commands crazy rich at WOT, so i dont think i had to adjust the fuel pressure over stock. Left the timing stock, 10* w/ spout out. Shifted at 6k.

With the suspension I had on it, it was a blast to drive. Complete MM front and rear. 03 Cobra IRS w/ 4.10s and torsen t2r. Delrin & heim joints everywhere. Bilsteins coil overs w/ 425 front and 550 rear springs. I was running some stock wheels (heavy bastards) with Kuhmo V700s. Full subframes and a MM bolt in 6 pt cage. Fun car. Had lots of compliments about keeping the 2.3 in it.

The only failure i had was the stock corrugated stainless turbo oil drain line fatigue cracked on one of the corrugations. It took me forever to find that friggin leak. It wouldnt leak with the car at idle because the vacuum in the crankcase was sucking air in through the crack. I finally happened to remove the oil fill cap and the oil started pouring out. A quick trackside fix (rtv, o-ring, dr pepper can, hose clamps) and i was back out.

Cool. Some good ideas there. I have had three SVOs over the years so I pretty familiar with the LA3 swap/exhaust/E6 and all that goodness.

What are you using for a track car these days?

I have been working tech for NASA TX and have not seen a SVO out on track yet.

Just got back from cresson and the CMC fied had 18 cars. That was fun.

Will you be at TWS?

kyle

[Evil86lx]

Thanks for the ideas guys.

I got the car home and in the garage. Its going to need alot of work.

kyle