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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by dk5_cobra View Post
    Pulled the trw steering rack today, and ordered a pump/lines for an 85 gt. It'll all be here next week and installation starts. Oh and trimmed my trans tunnel for the t5. Excited to be on track for my goals.
    I just picked up a Cardone remanufactured TRW rack for our 79. The Mustang Shop here said their supplier in the states sent 'their last one'. Not sure if it's true but it may be worth keeping it. I decided not to exchange our old one for the core.

    Quote Originally Posted by dk5_cobra View Post
    Today I was adjusting my rocker arms and I noticed one of them was off center of the valve stem. Turns out a bent pushrod will do that. Whyyyyyyyyyy




    Wow, now doesn't that suck! Sorry to hear.

    Quote Originally Posted by dk5_cobra View Post
    Sorry. Double posted.
    Wow, now doesn't that suck! Sorry to hear.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by dk5_cobra View Post
    Sorry. Double posted.
    Duplipost...
    Last edited by 82GTforME; 10-14-2014 at 10:00 PM.

  3. #53
    FEP Member dk5_cobra's Avatar
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    So I finally went through my dad's receipts from the mid/late 80's when he was building the motor. Comp cams 292h cam, Rhoads hydraulic lifters, comp cams magnum push rods (stock length), 1.6 comp cams roller rockers, slightly oversized valves, heavily ported stock heads, decked heads (should be 10.5:1 compression, 650cfm mech. Secondary holly carb, intake headers 3.73 rear gears and a few other details. Figured I'd make a post about it because I finally have all of the pieces of the puzzle together about this motor setup. Still working on getting it up and running though. Need replacement parts and to run a leakdown test.

    Devin

  4. #54
    FEP Member dk5_cobra's Avatar
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    Got my new push rods (comp cams high tech). One new rocker arm in and set the lifter preload properly last night. Finally the car runs again. I'm hoping it was just because of the improperly set rocker arms because I saw no evidence of piston/valve contact or anything else that would have caused the bent push rods. But for now I'm going to continue saving money for body work and the long list of things the cobra needs.
    Last edited by dk5_cobra; 10-14-2014 at 01:08 PM.

  5. #55
    FEP Member dk5_cobra's Avatar
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    since my last post I've:

    replaced the old rhoads lifters with comp cams high-energy which quieted down the motor significantly.

    started sanding down some areas on the body where tons of filler was laid. (shade tree stuff all over)

    I've started to sort through my boxes of trim to figure out what needs to be replaced and what I'm missing before it goes to the body shop (goal is the end of the year) and I can't find any of my body moldings...

    next week I'm towing it over to a local shop to get my mm xl sfc's welded in, torque box reinforcements, and a small patch put in the floor behind the driver's seat

    slow, but steady progress. once I do anything worth taking pictures of, I'll get them uploaded.

  6. #56

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    Great work! I'll be subscribing to this. I like what you've got planned for it.
    1986 Mustang LX 5.0- Project

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by dk5_cobra View Post
    slow, but steady progress. once I do anything worth taking pictures of, I'll get them uploaded.
    Progress is progress! I post lots of unworthy pictures, don't be shy.

  8. #58
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    No picture of progress is unworthy. Post 'em up for all to see, please. I need motivational inspiration as often as possible. The cold weather hasn't arrived here, yet, but it is just around the corner.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
    2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
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  9. #59
    FEP Member dk5_cobra's Avatar
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    the car got towed to the shop last monday for the welding work to get started. Still waiting for it to be completed but they had at least started on it when I went to check on it. they also said they might have a set of tubular control arms laying around that they'd throw in for cheap since the rear end would be out of the car anyways. (waiting on that as well)

    still need to get trim/body moldings and then start talking to painters. (this makes me a little nervous, I know almost nothing about paint)

    followed by pulling the motor and starting the actual prep. but that's for another post




  10. #60
    FEP Member dk5_cobra's Avatar
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    In celebration of 4 years of the mustang ressurection, I wanted to make a post sharing my recent progress on the cobra. Since I got the car back, I installed my proportioning valve where the stock unit used to be, I have the engine and trans out, I purchased the rest of the trim I needed along with a full set of body moldings. the engine bay is almost stripped. And I'm On the final push to paint after I sort out my wiring routing. I'd like to tuck as much as I can in the fenders and under the dash.

    I'm going to be stitch welding where the front frame rails connect to the rails that run behind the firewall and doing some on the strut towers as well.
    Last edited by dk5_cobra; 03-23-2015 at 03:34 PM.

  11. #61

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    Keep up the good work, man. I really feel for you and your motor issues. When I originally swapped a v8 into my car I had a bad luck experience myself.

    I got the motor running, seemed OK. The car wasn't ready for the road. So, as I would be working on the car, a friend would stop by and I'd fire it up for them. One day, it just didn't fire. Turns out I had no fuel in the carb. Pulled the pump off and the arm had snapped off!!!! I had the wrong eccentric.

    I had it easy though. I was able to pull off the timing cover and fetch the arm out of the oil pan with a magnet. Bought an electric pump and a block off plate and I was good to go. I was devastated when it happened though, I can only imagine how you felt.

    I like the fact that you just shake it off and move on, stuff like that ends projects all the time. Keep working. You'll have more set backs, but in the end they are all just good lessons learned.

    Keep up the great work, man!!

  12. #62
    FEP Member dk5_cobra's Avatar
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    thanks! I appreciate it.

    now onto the progress. pulled the motor



    decided to smooth the engine bay some, not a complete shave, but no more swiss cheese look





    seam welded the areas where the frame rails under the floor meet up with the rails in the engine bay, as well as the crossmember that the front seats rest on and the rear seam of the floor pan. during this process, I stripped all the paint and rust off of the floor pans and trunk. then I discovered an area where the metal had become thin from rust and needed to be patched. this has yet to be fixed but i'll get to it soon.



    I also ran into an issue with body molding, I was missing one corner but through the fep facebook page, I was able to get the right piece and its currently being shipped to me.

    I need to start talking to body shops soon, mock up my bumpers and finish the engine bay/floors.

    side note: I decided that I'm not going to put the motor back in until I get a tubular k member. even if the project has to be slightly delayed, I think it's worth it because of how simple the installation will be with the car stripped down this far.
    Last edited by dk5_cobra; 01-11-2015 at 09:40 PM.

  13. #63
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Nice progress. Doing the K-member now is a great idea.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  14. #64
    FEP Member dk5_cobra's Avatar
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    floor patch before

    ...it wasnt even spot welded to the frame rail/torque box. this patch was simply brazed in on top of the original rusty floor






    pinch weld before


    trimmed it justforward of the spot-welds


    still need to finish the engine bay but then I'll be done with the welding and can start prep work for paint. also this week, i scored an oem hood scoop for $40 shipped, all studs intact.

  15. #65
    FEP Member dk5_cobra's Avatar
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    pulled my steering column and pedal cluster so I could paint everything with por15



    I pulled the doors off so I could replace the hinge pins/bushings and discovered that there was rust building on the plates that the hinges bolt to and to the a pillar where the hinges cover. ground it off with a wire wheel and left it because the doors will be off when it gets sprayed



    the big progress was in the engine bay. finished up all of my metal work.



    I also decided to weld the front sway bar brackets instead of having them simply bolted in. I don't know what years ford did this but I've never seen another fox with brackets like these


  16. #66

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    love the Cobra's.
    84 5.0 ( currently restoring)
    86 Toyota 4x4
    02 Lexus is300

  17. #67
    FEP Member dk5_cobra's Avatar
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    painted the entire floor with 2 coats of por-15.I'm super happy about how it looks and believe it will hold up for years to come



    got my Maximum Motorsports k-member and standard wheelbase control arms. Can't wait to install all of these parts



    for my electric fan swap I'm going to use a mark viii fan, a bmw temperature sensor, and a volvo dual speed fan relay/controller. It will even utilize the original fan shroud brackets on the bottom.



    and finally I found an 81 coupe in a local junkyard that I was able to snag some good parts from. the main ones being good condition taillight lenses and the front bumper. It's in better shape than the original one I have and I believe its a slightly different material as it is much less flexible. even the headlight support is undamaged.



    I'm looking into doing the body work myself after talking to a few local body shops about cost. I have around 3k budgeted for paint/body and it's looking like I won't be able to have someone paint it for less. Which means I have a lot of reading to do.

  18. #68
    FEP Member dk5_cobra's Avatar
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    been continuing my body work



    started cleaning up the engine when I got tired of sanding. waiting on some things to come for it and my intake to be powdercoated clear



    and the find of the century. a pair of NOS taillights that I found for sale and absolutely had to have

    Last edited by dk5_cobra; 03-23-2015 at 02:34 PM.

  19. #69
    FEP User SVTKID92's Avatar
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    Nice build!
    95 Taurus SHO MTX-Sold. 92 Capri XR2 1.6 Turbo-Sold. 86 Mustang GT 5.0-Sold. 01 Focus ZX3-Sold.16 Focus SE 1.0L Ecoboost 6 Speed Manual-Daily 1978 Ford Fairmont I6 - Family Cruiser

  20. #70
    FEP Member dk5_cobra's Avatar
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    continuing with my rust repair

















    discovered some more filler piled up here, went to repair the section, and I found even more on the roof skin







    scored a good deal on a pair of svo sail panels



    and picked up a set of maximum motorsports/koni coilovers with 375/300lb spring rates




    With how bad the roof is, I may end up replacing the entire skin but I'm not sure yet. I'll talk to a few body guys and see what their thoughts are.

  21. #71
    FEP Member huck01955's Avatar
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    The car is coming along real nice

  22. #72
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Progress is coming along nicely.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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  23. #73
    FEP Member dk5_cobra's Avatar
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    first step in replacing the roof skin is complete. I've heard of people paying as little as $750 to have theirs done by a professional which I would gladly pay instead of doing it myself

    Last edited by dk5_cobra; 07-05-2015 at 12:25 PM.

  24. #74

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    I was quoted $1000, but it didn't include any paint. If you do the work yourself, please keep us posted (maybe start a thread). I'd like to follow your work.
    Cheers!

    Mike (TopGear85)



    Have:
    85 Saleen #73-GT,2R,TuTone,Cruise,Pos,5spd,Charcoal
    ***August 2015 ROTM Winner!***

    Had:
    79PC-San Jose #2890
    86GT-9L,TuTone,5spd,T-Tops,Sand Beige
    86GT-9L,TuTone,5spd,T-Tops,Charcoal
    90LX-Oxford Wht,5spd,Sunroof,5.0 Hatchback
    90GT-Oxford Wht,5spd

  25. #75
    FEP Member dk5_cobra's Avatar
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    its been a while since my last update but i've been busy, not to worry. A few of the highlights first.. I am in fact going to be going IRS. it started when I saw a set of mint oem 03 cobra wheels for $300 available locally. I picked them up thinking I'd flip them for some quick cash but life had other ideas.

    The next week a complete irs assembly from a 99 cobra came up for $600 which included delrin control arm bushings, poly cradle bushings, and the front differential brace/crossmember that came on 03/04 cobras. I sold the 28 spline differential for $200 to my friend who is building a v8 mazda miata so I can upgrade to the 31 spline diff/stronger half shafts. I sanded down the cradle, and painted it with por15 which is a product I have come to love for things like this.

    to go along with the irs, I'm going to be running 13" cobra front brakes and 2001 spindles. I found someone who is parting an 01 cobra and i'm buying the front brake assembly, rear diff (already has a torsen t2r diff and fr 3.73 gears) I'm getting the halfshafts to go with the differential along with a handful of other parts for the irs.

    as far as the roof skin goes, I've found someone who is going to do the work, along with painting the car. Just waiting on some space to open up in their shop.

    I picked up a mint set of 79 door panels because mine were hacked up for an aftermarket stereo's door speakers.

    I've had the louvers for a while but I never had hinges for them. well a pair popped up on ebay and I bought them as fast as i could. then I proceeded to sandblast them, drill out all of the rivets, replace the rivets with solid rivets that you hammer instead of pop rivets (I have probably 12-14 man hours into them but the smooth look of the solid rivets was worth it. and I finally got them powdercoated satin black and I am absolutely in love. Cant wait to see them on the car once its painted.

    speaking of crazy hours into something small..I have 8 hours into restoring my body side molding. peeling the metal backing off is one of the most time-consuming, frustrating things I have ever done.

    enough words. now on to the pics.







    My rivnut tool for mounting the louvers. it was free and it worked. but if I had to do it again, I'd just buy the proper tool. I think I'll use rivnuts for other things on the car..theyre really nice




    I thought my chrome headlight bezels were toast...until I discovered what some 00 steel wool could do..it worked some serious magic


    someone got epoxy primer overspray on my original cobra dash bezels. and when a set popped up on the classifieds I couldn't pass it up


    since I'd like the car to someday have a/c, I went about looking for info for swapping in a newer system. at first I was going to use the entire blower box from a 93 but when I had the 2 side by side, I had the idea to put the 93 evaporator into the 79 box, leaving my wiring and controls intact. the only issue with this is that the new evaporator is slightly smaller. nothing some foam can't fix. oh and I had to make the hole for the evap lines smaller because 79-81 mustangs had the big, giant, square hole, while the later cars had a smaller one.


    this was the cutout before


    the door panels were originally from a 79 capri rs and I sold the emblems to a capri owner friend of mine to make back some of the purchase cost.


    body molding all nice and straight. still in need of some color though. that's coming soon.


    i've wanted a set of motorsport valve covers for a long time. got this set for a good deal on ebay..they'll be nice once I polish them up some. for now they just take up space on my shelf. which is starting to over flow into other parts of the house..


    my current project is cleaning up all of the exterior trim and painting it. so that I can have it sitting, ready to go on when the car comes back from paint. I'd like to avoid having to paint things once the car is nice and overspray is an issue. plus I need SOMETHING to occupy my time..besides going to work and saving the money I'll need to finish everything. for the sail panels, body moldings, and plastic trim, Im using SEM flexible primer surfacer, and their satin black bumper coat. for the metal trim, I'm using sem trim black based on the reviews of others before me.

    side note: the best way to sand the corners is to take a pencil and wrap the tip in sandpaper. I put a few hours into these too..




    with the louvers on the car, I'm leaning against using the svo sail panels. and after doing some internet searching, I cannot find a single fox with rear window louvers and svo sail panels. so I'm going to see how I like them when its painted and go from there. If I don't like them, then they're easy enough to sell. especially once their nicely painted





    couldn't help but stick one on the car. this whole waiting thing is seriously killing me



    sorry I don't update this more often, but as usual, if you have any questions about anything you see in this thread, feel free to shoot me a pm. I have this idea in my head that I could drive the car this summer but who knows. thanks for reading, and stay tuned for more

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