Close



Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 57
  1. #26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 19COBRA93 View Post
    You can't just swap the input shaft. The tooth count is different. Also, I'm pretty sure the SN T5's use a tapered mainshaft bearing as opposed to the roller bearings that the fox's have.

    The best option would be to find an SN bellhousing and be done with it.
    My local trans specialist swapped my SN95 GT trans to a new fox input just fine?
    1981 T-top coupe - FEP #28
    1990 GT - H/C/I
    2003 GT daily driver - bolt-ons 252hp/292tq rw

  2. #27
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Posts
    489

    Default

    I have a pressing question. I have a 2003 V6 T5 that I am going to swap into my 85 GT. I need to put a speedometer drive gear on the output shaft. Does anyone know where exactly on the polished part of the shaft that I need to make the slot for the gear retainer? How big does said slot need to be? How far from the end of the shaft does the slot/hole need to be positioned? This is my first time diving into a transmission like this. Doing it on a budget, on my garage floor. lol!
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  3. #28

    Default

    This is the one part I never got around to actually doing properly
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  4. #29
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Posts
    489

    Default

    I think what I'll end up doing is sitting both transmissions next to each other and lining up where the hole is. I'm dropping the factory t5 out today. I'll measure the length from the end of the output shaft and post it later for those who would benefit from my adventure.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  5. #30
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Chicago, south subs
    Posts
    2,136

    Default

    Will the output shaft/tailshaft housing from the old trans transfer to the sn95 transmission? Might save some work if it does. Not sure I would attempt doing machine work on a trans shaft, but I don't have the proper tools for that anyway.

  6. #31
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Altoona, PA
    Posts
    4,249

    Default

    One of my T5's was from a newer car and didn't have the hole in the output shaft for the speedometer drive gear. I was afraid to even try drilling the output shaft as all kinds of things could go wrong. What I finally did was slide the gear into place centered on the smooth section and used red loctite to hold the retainer in place. That may not be the best way to do it but that gear never moved from it's spot for years and I had to bump it with a hammer when I wanted it off. I think I have a pic somewhere, I'll have to look.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  7. #32

    Default

    I have not researched this at all because I have never had a need. However, I was under the impression that there are now GPS based "conversions" for just this issue. Some sort of deal where your factory speedo gets data from a GPS box that drives it. Is that not the case or is that technology really cost prohibitive still or is it just unreliable?
    Last edited by homer302; 07-08-2018 at 05:47 PM.

  8. #33
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Posts
    489

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gmatt View Post
    Will the output shaft/tailshaft housing from the old trans transfer to the sn95 transmission? Might save some work if it does. Not sure I would attempt doing machine work on a trans shaft, but I don't have the proper tools for that anyway.
    That would entail a rebuild, which I am avoiding as much as possible. I just need to drill a shallow hole into the shaft for the speedometer gear retainer. It can be done. I'm getting ready to swap in my input shaft, now that I have the old transmission out and partially disassembled.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  9. #34
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Altoona, PA
    Posts
    4,249

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gmatt View Post
    Will the output shaft/tailshaft housing from the old trans transfer to the sn95 transmission? Might save some work if it does. Not sure I would attempt doing machine work on a trans shaft, but I don't have the proper tools for that anyway.
    The output shafts can be swapped but the transmission needs to be torn down all the way to do that.





    Even with the output shaft bared and out of the transmission I still didn't feel comfortable drilling the hole. I'm assuming the shaft is hardened and it's of course round so the bit will want to slip off. I considered putting the shaft in a vice on my drill press but still felt there was too much chance of screwing up the output shaft. That's why I came up with the idea of gluing the speedometer drive gear retainer in place with red loctite. I didn't remove the little tang on the retainer that's supposed to drop into the hole so there was pretty good tension on it when I slid the gear over it.

    I ran the transmission like that through many trips down the 1/4 mile where my 85 mph speedometer was pegged by half track and the gear never moved. I cleaned the smooth area on the output shaft really good before applying the loctite. All I'm saying is it was easy and worked for me. I eventually swapped the output shaft only because the nose got spalled.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  10. #35
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Posts
    489

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mmb617 View Post
    The output shafts can be swapped but the transmission needs to be torn down all the way to do that.





    Even with the output shaft bared and out of the transmission I still didn't feel comfortable drilling the hole. I'm assuming the shaft is hardened and it's of course round so the bit will want to slip off. I considered putting the shaft in a vice on my drill press but still felt there was too much chance of screwing up the output shaft. That's why I came up with the idea of gluing the speedometer drive gear retainer in place with red loctite. I didn't remove the little tang on the retainer that's supposed to drop into the hole so there was pretty good tension on it when I slid the gear over it.

    I ran the transmission like that through many trips down the 1/4 mile where my 85 mph speedometer was pegged by half track and the gear never moved. I cleaned the smooth area on the output shaft really good before applying the loctite. All I'm saying is it was easy and worked for me. I eventually swapped the output shaft only because the nose got spalled.
    I just might do that if I wind up having too much difficulty. I have come across some differences between the two transmissions. The tail shaft housing where it meets with the reverse gear from my old tranny doesn't seem to work. Does anyone remember having to modify the older tail shaft housing to work? I imagine this may be an easy task with my Dremel, but I wanted to touch base on that while I'm at a stopping point.

    Old tail shaft housing
    Name:  20180708_204024.jpg
Views: 427
Size:  80.7 KB

    Newer one
    Name:  20180708_204031.jpg
Views: 430
Size:  92.4 KB

    Newer reverse gear/synchro
    Name:  20180708_204044.jpg
Views: 425
Size:  64.1 KB

    My old reverse gear assembly
    Name:  20180708_204053.jpg
Views: 427
Size:  72.3 KB

    Where the hole is on my old output shaft
    Name:  20180708_204137.jpg
Views: 426
Size:  64.0 KB
    Last edited by Mgino757; 07-08-2018 at 07:58 PM.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  11. #36

    Default

    I did this exact thing on my 1980 cobra last year. Rebuilt and swapped a 2003 V6 Mustang T5. I used the tailhousing, 8 tooth gear, and clip from a 98 vintage T5 and it fit without modification. I think there were some differences between the early and later T5's with the reverse brake assembly etc. I was using a T5 bell from an 83 so got a new fox length input shaft and steel retainer.

    The hole measurement in the pic looks correct IIRC at a hair over 9.25" from the end of the output shaft. Its a 5/32 drill hole I think but double check. I used a die grinder and pointy carbide burr to get the hole started. The shaft is very hard but once you penetrate the surface with a pilot dimple a cobalt drill bit seemed to cut it eventually. I just drilled enough so the clip would sit flush.

    The speedo gear itself was a very tight fit on mine...almost like it could have stayed in place on its own !! Perhaps because no gear was originally installed the 2003 's but got it done and speedo works great.

  12. #37

    Default

    Forgot to mention...not sure if your aware but you may need to align the flat tang on the reverse synchro in order for the tail housing to snap fully in place etc.

    IIRC the tang needs to be at a 12 or 1 o'clock position to match the groove when you slide it together. Perhaps that is your trouble ?

  13. #38
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Enjoying the thread.

    I have a 99 3.8 tail shaft housing on a 1352-169 (1986) case. Trans has a complete T5Z conversion internally. Problem I found is it binds on the 2-3 shift damn near every time. I have to try for 3rd try for 4th the try for 3rd again to get it into 3rd gear. Never had that problem with the original tail section but when they are broken parts are parts.

    Ill eventually rip it back apart and figure out what the heck is wrong.

  14. #39
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Altoona, PA
    Posts
    4,249

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mgino757 View Post
    I have come across some differences between the two transmissions. The tail shaft housing where it meets with the reverse gear from my old tranny doesn't seem to work. Does anyone remember having to modify the older tail shaft housing to work?
    I have two T5's that I interchanged often when I was racing as I broke them fairly often. One was like yours from a newer car that I had to swap the input and run the speedometer drive gear as I outlined above, but I don't recall anything different in the tailshaft housings or 5th gear assembly. The newer one did have that square toothed "gear" shown in your picture that actuates the electronic speedo but since it's behind the 5th gear assembly it didn't affect anything that I could see. I had both the older and newer ones apart numerous times but never tried swapping the tailshaft housings between them so I can't say for sure there wasn't any difference, just nothing that was obvious.


    Quote Originally Posted by at_the_junkyard View Post
    Forgot to mention...not sure if your aware but you may need to align the flat tang on the reverse synchro in order for the tail housing to snap fully in place etc.

    IIRC the tang needs to be at a 12 or 1 o'clock position to match the groove when you slide it together. Perhaps that is your trouble ?
    That's something I found out the hard way when I was a rookie T5 rebuilder.








    When sliding the tailshaft into place if that tang is not lined up it's easy to just give a little extra push and break it off. Trust me on this.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  15. #40
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Altoona, PA
    Posts
    4,249

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post

    I have a 99 3.8 tail shaft housing on a 1352-169 (1986) case. Trans has a complete T5Z conversion internally. Problem I found is it binds on the 2-3 shift damn near every time. I have to try for 3rd try for 4th the try for 3rd again to get it into 3rd gear. Never had that problem with the original tail section but when they are broken parts are parts.

    Ill eventually rip it back apart and figure out what the heck is wrong.
    Are you absolutely sure the problem is with the transmission? Most of the time when I ran into that problem there was a little too much slack in the clutch cable preventing complete disengagement. It drove me nuts at first because the 1-2 and 3-4 shifts were easy, just the 2-3 was hard, so I didn't suspect the cable but that's what it turned out to be. The first time it happened I put my spare freshly rebuilt transmission in and the problem was still there. That sucked. After that at the first sign of reluctance to go into 3rd gear I'd put a turn on the firewall adjuster and most of the time that fixed it. Not always as sometimes there was an actual problem with the transmission, but most of the time it was just the cable.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  16. #41
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Posts
    489

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by at_the_junkyard View Post
    Forgot to mention...not sure if your aware but you may need to align the flat tang on the reverse synchro in order for the tail housing to snap fully in place etc.

    IIRC the tang needs to be at a 12 or 1 o'clock position to match the groove when you slide it together. Perhaps that is your trouble ?
    I'm willing to bet that was my problem. I never thought of that. I'm having a friend come over to double check my work, just to be safe. I'm pretty sure I have the input shaft installed correctly too. Steel retainer with seal>>roller bearings>>small diameter shaft shim>>thrust bearing>>thrust washer>>3-4 blocker ring. Just have to remove the bearing retainer and apply rtv. I realized last night that I will need to swap over my top cover as well so I have the top gear sensing switch.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  17. #42

    Default

    FYI there are some real good videos on how to rebuild T-5's on youtube.

    I was very leery of rebuilding my T5 after I figured out how to take the top off and looked at all those scary looking gears inside LOL. However, after watching the 2 part video with Eric the car guy and Paul C doing a rebuild I decided to tackle it. Ordered a master rebuild kit and some other parts from Paul at 5speeds.com. Had to watch the videos a few times to get it assembled but it all works good in the end and I consider myself a transmission amateur However I did have access to a shop with a good hydraulic press which was a necessity.

    The speedo gear mod was relatively easy compared pressing a new bushing in the tail housing . For some reason I had a real time of it but got it done and no leaks. This is also something to consider replacing arbitrarily while the housing is off.

  18. #43
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Posts
    489

    Default

    Transmission is in. Everything's bolted up, just waiting for my new shifter dust boot. Also trying one of those silicone gaskets for the shifter. Input shaft swap looks to be a success. Started the engine and engaged the clutch in neutral. I'm ready to take it for a drive. I tell ya, working on your back with basic hand tools sucks. Pulling the trans was easy, but putting it back in, gravity sucks. lol
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  19. #44
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Barboursville, WV
    Posts
    1,773

    Default

    For future reference, here's how I always locate the spot to drill for the speedo gear retainer. I slide the fox tail housing on and stick a sharpie (marker) in through the opening for the speedo driven gear. The dot you made on the main shaft is where the speedo drive gear needs to be centered. With tail housing off, hold the drive gear against the side of the main shaft (don't slide it on, just against it, making sure the gear is centered on your dot). While holding the gear against the shaft, put the retainer clip right up against the gear and main shaft. You'll be able to see exactly where your hole needs drilled. It would be easier if the hole went right in the middle, but it's actually slightly offset from the center of the speedo gear.

    I always use a cheap diamond bit in a dremel tool and carefully carve out a shallow hole.

  20. #45
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Barboursville, WV
    Posts
    1,773

    Default

    And since no one mentioned it yet, I'll point out another option for the longer input shaft. You can swap the fox shaft over (what I usually do), use the 94-95 sn95 gt bell, use the 3.8 v6 bell and larger clutch setup, or you can buy a spacer plate. LMR sells one for around $150, iirc. I plan on getting one because I like the idea of being able to swap either t5 in (long or short input) without having to swap bellhousing or input shafts.
    Last edited by Broncojunkie; 07-04-2022 at 08:18 PM.

  21. #46
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Barboursville, WV
    Posts
    1,773

    Default

    Another issue I've found is that aftermarket shifters tend to have clearance issues toward the front of the console opening. There's a few things that cause it and usually at least 2 of them pop up when doing t5 upgrades. For one, the fox input/bellhousing length, in my opinion, is already a little too short. Add in an aftermarket shifter (never run the stock shifter or anything without adjustable stops) and the problem gets worse, because they tend to have a larger base and adjusting bolts that stick out. Another issue that took me a while to figure out is shorter motor mounts. Seems like everyone goes to solid mounts or short mounts to help with hood clearance when using larger intakes and engines. What happens is you get the fulcrum effect which lifts the transmission up, which puts the shifter higher in the opening. Again, probably not an issue with stock shifter, but definitely an issue with most aftermarket shifters.

  22. #47
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Posts
    489

    Default

    I kept my stock shifter since I'm used to it. Took it for a spin earlier to test it all out. It shifts wonderfully. It's nice not having to baby 2nd gear when doing a quick 1-2 shift. I took it out and gave it hell. All of the gears work and the synchros work well too. I filled the transmission with Mercon V ATF.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  23. #48

    Default

    I'm pretty sure you can just swap the reluctor wheel with the toothed gear, can't you? Looks like the sensor would bolt up the same way as the stock Speedo cable.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  24. #49
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Barboursville, WV
    Posts
    1,773

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    I'm pretty sure you can just swap the reluctor wheel with the toothed gear, can't you? Looks like the sensor would bolt up the same way as the stock Speedo cable.
    They are in different locations and different sizes. The main shaft is made larger in the speedo gear area to fit the mechanical gear. On the later 99-04 v6 t5, even though they are not drilled for the retainer clip, the enlarged area is still there. Some people report that theirs was already drilled, as well. I have yet to find one.
    Last edited by Broncojunkie; 07-04-2022 at 08:20 PM.

  25. #50
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Posts
    489

    Default

    And for what it's worth, the silicone shifter gasket works great. I had no issues installing it.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •