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  1. #1

    Question T-5 in a 79 Mustang / Modlist and Parts needed ?

    Hi,

    I have some questions concerning a T5 swap.

    Iīm not sure if someone already posted the answers,
    but I couldnīt find them.

    I canīt stand auto transmissions, so I was planning a T5 swap.
    After reading a few threads about it and asking some guys,
    Iīm totally confused !
    (Though I found this "Complete list of stuff for T5 swap")

    The answers go from "no big deal", to "mod the trans tunnel"...

    My current setup is a 79 Mustang Cobra with a slightly modded 302 and a C4.
    My marti report says: 2.47 standard axle ratio.
    I already installed a Ford Racing double hump crossmember for a dual exhaust.



    A friend has an 81 Mustang with a 2.3 and a 5-Gear Manual.
    Which parts can I use. (I know tranny itself wonīt work)
    Pedals, harness, shift stuff, speedo cable...?!?!
    What kind of clutch would you recommend ? hydro, cable ?

    The offer about spare parts and cars is really tiny, so I have to focus on what I really need.
    I regret I canīt just go to a junkyard to grab some nice parts !

    If anyone has a sort of "How to" with pics or something like that, would be great !

    What has to be modified on the car ?
    Transmission tunnel, pedal box ?!

    Greets
    Olli

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member
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    The T-5 will bolt right in.
    Even though its for a four cylinder. You will need a different pilot bearing though. I cant for the life of me remember the part number....I could be way off, but I think its a 202ff timken number.
    You will also need a flywheel with a 28oz. imbalance (stock replacement 1979 mustang). Also a clutch/ brake pedal assembly and clutch cable. Seeing that it is a mild 302, take your pick for a clutch.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangjoe413 View Post
    The T-5 will bolt right in.
    Even though its for a four cylinder. You will need a different pilot bearing though. I cant for the life of me remember the part number....I could be way off, but I think its a 202ff timken number.
    You will also need a flywheel with a 28oz. imbalance (stock replacement 1979 mustang). Also a clutch/ brake pedal assembly and clutch cable. Seeing that it is a mild 302, take your pick for a clutch.
    28oz, if it is an older 302. The newer 5.0s used the 50 oz.

    You can use the 4 cyl stuff, but I would recommend upgrading the cable. Although m y 4 cyl to 302 swap, i didn't change anything, and had 0 problems.
    '84 Mustang GT Turbo 100% Stock, 77k Miles
    '85 LTD 81k miles
    '89 Camaro Iroc-z28

  4. #4

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    Should be the stock 79 5.0 flywheel.

    No further special modifications on a 79 ?!

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member
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    Nothing...it bolts right in. Although, you will need to cut a hole in the floor for the shifter to come through.

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member Ford'sCapri's Avatar
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    I've done before in my 79 Capri, although it was a V6 4speed to a 5.0 T5 swap. The principals are the same for the most part, however.

    You will need a pedal set and corresponding clutch cable to go with it. (79-82 pedals and cable, 83+ pedals and cable) The later 83+ pedal set with the self adjusting quadrant will fit but a hammer may be needed to make room for the quadrant to swing. Trust me, I know.

    As for the T5, a WC V8 T5 is ideal but a T5 from a 4 cylinder will work too. If you go with the 4 banger T5 use Motormite pilot bushing #14672.

    A V8 bellhousing is needed, obviously, along with the clutch fork and throwout bearing.

    A 28oz imbalance 157 tooth flywheel is used on 302's up to 81. 1982 and later 302's use the 50oz imbalance 157 tooth flywheel.

    The speedometer will probably need the correct gear put on it to match the transmission and rear axle gear. The driveshaft may be to short but I'm not positive. I'm sure some have used it without problems, but I can't say it will.

    As for the trans tunnel, I'm not sure if on the early cars they were different on the automatics compared to the manual equipped ones. Since my Capri originally had a 4 speed I didn't have to modify anything in terms of the hole in the floor for the shifter or clearance for the T5. You may have to, I don't know.
    -John-

    79 Mercury Capri RS: 5.0L 5 speed swap
    83 Mustang GT: 5.0L 5 Speed
    83 Mustang GT T-Top: 5.0L 5 Speed
    84 Mustang L: 2.3L 4 Speed
    85 LTD Wagon: 358W 5 speed swap
    87 Mustang LX: 5.0L 5 speed swap

  7. #7

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    The earlier cars may not have had the raised portion of the trans hump where the shifter is to clear the trans.

    This can be cut out of a donor car and welded in to your car.

    Here is the added hump I'm talking about:
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    1985 Mustang GT Mild 331 4bbl 5 spd, 1985 SEFI LTD LX AOD.
    Cardomain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/565542
    Mid Size LTD LX Facebook page! http://www.facebook.com/groups/233213650060739/

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member Ford'sCapri's Avatar
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    The hump isn't really necessary for the swap to work in my experience.
    -John-

    79 Mercury Capri RS: 5.0L 5 speed swap
    83 Mustang GT: 5.0L 5 Speed
    83 Mustang GT T-Top: 5.0L 5 Speed
    84 Mustang L: 2.3L 4 Speed
    85 LTD Wagon: 358W 5 speed swap
    87 Mustang LX: 5.0L 5 speed swap

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangman65_79 View Post
    28oz, if it is an older 302. The newer 5.0s used the 50 oz.

    You can use the 4 cyl stuff, but I would recommend upgrading the cable. Although m y 4 cyl to 302 swap, i didn't change anything, and had 0 problems.
    The change was made in 1981 from the 28 oz. to 50 o.z if i'm not mistaken. Hope this helps.
    1982 Mustang GLX coupe
    GT40P, 278H-10, Performer intake, exhaust, T5, 3.73
    13.28 @ 105 mph- SOLD

    1992 Mustang Convertible
    GT40P, Explorer intake, exhaust, T5, 3.27
    13.89 @ 101 mph- TRADED FOR:

    1982 Mustang GT 359W
    10.24:1, ported heads, X cam, RPM intake, T5, 3.55

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4SPDFOX...+1 View Post
    The change was made in 1981 from the 28 oz. to 50 o.z if i'm not mistaken. Hope this helps.
    Thx, I could not remember when the change was.
    '84 Mustang GT Turbo 100% Stock, 77k Miles
    '85 LTD 81k miles
    '89 Camaro Iroc-z28

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member eric5oh's Avatar
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    I had to modify the shifter hole when I swapped my 79 to a T5. The back part of the shifter hit the hole. The old Ford Motorsport T5 conversion kit came with a trans tunnel hump and a shallow ashtray to compensate for it.
    2017 Lincoln MKZ AWD
    2003 Town Car
    2017 GTI
    Currently Foxless

  12. #12
    Venomous Moderator Hissing Cobra's Avatar
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    I did this very swap in my '79 Cobra and here's what I needed to do the job.

    1. Used set of '87 - '93 Mustang complete pedal assembly. I used an assembly from an '89 LX with the 4-cylinder and it was a direct bolt in with no modifications. I went with this setup because those cars are more popular and I figured that later on down the line, it would be easier to get parts because the aftermarket companies seem to focus on the later models of the fox bodies more than their earlier counterparts. Make sure when you get a pedal assembly, you get the switches that are attached to it. One will be for the neutral safety switch and the other one will be for the cruise control (if you have it). Getting the switches will save you from having to buy them after the fact.

    2. Steeda adjustable clutch cable kit (quadrant, firewall adjuster, cable). Again, it's for the later '87-'93 Mustangs due to easier sourcing in the future. These aftermarket kits with the adjustable quadrants will not work with the earlier pedal assemblies. I did have to enlarge the hole in the firewall for the firewall adjuster but that was easy to do with a die grinder.

    Also, when mounting the quadrant to the pedal assembly you may have to space it away from the mounting point so that it lines up with the hole in the firewall. This will create a perfect line for the cable to come off of it and make a straight shot through the firewall, preventing binding. I used plastic spacers that I bought at a hardware store to do this.

    3. V-8/T-5 Bellhousing,

    4. V-8 starter

    5. Centerforce Dual Friction clutch

    6. Double hump crossmember - You've already got this!

    7. Ford Motorsport Aluminum Driveshaft

    That's it!

    You should be able to use your current flywheel and starter but you'll need to change the bellhousing to a V-8/T-5 unit. You'll also need to buy a clutch for a V-8/T-5 but make sure it'll match your flywheel. Once the clutch, bellhousing and starter are bolted on, you're ready for the transmission. Move it into place and bolt it to the bellhousing but keep a jack underneath the back of it to lift it upwards and into the transmission tunnel. When you try to install the double hump crossmember, you'll notice that the brackets on the floorboards will be in the wrong location. You'll have to drill/grind off the spot welds and remove them from the car. Then you can bolt them to the crossmember and install the crossmember to the transmission. Now you'll see where the brackets will have to be welded into their new location. Once welded in, the driveshaft is next. I opted to buy a Ford Motorsport aluminum unit for fox body Mustang and it bolted right up with no trouble at all. I would imagine that a stock T-5 equipped Mustang driveshaft will work with no modifications whatsoever - afterall, Ford used them in all of the GT's, LX's, etc... for how many years?

    If you do this, good luck!
    Last edited by Hissing Cobra; 12-13-2010 at 10:51 PM.
    Pete Slaney

    1979 Mustang Cobra

    347/T-5/4.30's
    420 rwhp/380 rwt (New Motor)
    11.49 @ 121.86

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38

  13. #13

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    The '79 I used to have came with the SROD. I don't recall modifying the tunnel for the Tremec 3550 I installed.
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  14. #14

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    Great, thanks a lot.

    I guess I wonīt find spare parts from a "late model",
    so, like you said, I can use all the 4 cyl. pedals a.s.o.

    Further more I need the T5 + bellhousing, clutch stuff and another driveshaft !

    The rest is Trial&Error (hopefully without error)

    Ok, it seems as if I have a new project !

    Thanks again guys.

    Greets
    Olli

  15. #15

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    The crossmember body mount thing is big. Somebody cut the cross member bushings down so they would fit the early body. lets just say they screwed the pooch hard, its trashed now. Do this part right! Also I think the T5 shifter hump is important, the old SROD lower boot screws go right into the shifter base. The master mechanic i bought the car from angle cut the bolts so they would clear. Please, do it right!
    1979 capri, a mess, 86 efi

  16. #16
    Venomous Moderator Hissing Cobra's Avatar
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    Yup, I forgot to mention that I'm the one who cut the later model crossmember to fit the '79 body mount brackets. It was easy. I bought an adjustable crossmember (tubes weren't welded to the crossmember) and removed the bushings from the ends of the tubes. We then cut the tubes to fit the early "narrow style" frame brackets and re-installed the bushings. From there, we installed it and welded the tubes to the crossmember
    Pete Slaney

    1979 Mustang Cobra

    347/T-5/4.30's
    420 rwhp/380 rwt (New Motor)
    11.49 @ 121.86

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hissing Cobra View Post
    Yup, ...the tubes to the crossmember
    I guess, thatīs what Iīve already done to mount a selfmade dual exhaust system.
    Please check pic and confirm, that it is what youīve meant !




    Olli

  18. #18

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    Yes. That's what he described.
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  19. #19
    FEP Member 79_5.0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hissing Cobra View Post

    You should be able to use your current flywheel and starter but you'll need to change the bellhousing to a V-8/T-5 unit. You'll also need to buy a clutch for a V-8/T-5 but make sure it'll match your flywheel. Once the clutch, bellhousing and starter are bolted on, you're ready for the transmission. Move it into place and bolt it to the bellhousing but keep a jack underneath the back of it to lift it upwards and into the transmission tunnel. When you try to install the double hump crossmember, you'll notice that the brackets on the floorboards will be in the wrong location. You'll have to drill/grind off the spot welds and remove them from the car. Then you can bolt them to the crossmember and install the crossmember to the transmission. Now you'll see where the brackets will have to be welded into their new location. Once welded in, the driveshaft is next. I opted to buy a Ford Motorsport aluminum unit for fox body Mustang and it bolted right up with no trouble at all. I would imagine that a stock T-5 equipped Mustang driveshaft will work with no modifications whatsoever - afterall, Ford used them in all of the GT's, LX's, etc... for how many years?

    If you do this, good luck!
    I am doing a T5 swap as well. But i don't have a double hump cross member. am i going to need to get one, or can the original single hump work? and whats this business about using a different starter? I bought a 50oz flywheel, will my stock starter work with it? or do i need to find the tooth count and get another starter gear?
    Vid of car running
    1979 Mercury Capri Ghia 5.0, T5 swap
    Edelbrock RPM intake & 600cfm carb, E7TE heads, BBK equal length shorty hedders & off-road H-pipe, Flowmaster 40's, 8.8 swap with 3.08 posi

    {Project Info}

  20. #20
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    What happened?
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
    2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
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    The Four-Eyed Game - 2018 Version

  21. #21
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    I'm subscribed to this thread. The "List" mentioned in Post #1 is this thread:

    Complete list of stuff for T5 swap

    No new posts are accepted in it, so I'm adding a link here for my, (and others), future reference.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
    2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
    Buyer/Seller Experience Link
    Build Thread
    The Four-Eyed Game - 2018 Version

  22. #22

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    I am near the end of my T5 swap in a 1979 Pace Car and I was wondering if anyone could fill me in on how to connect the reverses lights?

  23. #23
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I did this on my PC about 10 years ago now, so I don't remember everything.

    You should have the reverse lights switch on the side of the transmission. The wire harness will look something like this.

    Name:  T5 harness.jpg
Views: 1079
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    https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FH-055

    Here is one without any OEM pigtail on it too.

    https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PG-055

    You should have a connector inside the car on the driver side of the transmission tunnel that goes thru the grommet on the tunnel very close to the accelerator pedal. Those will be the car/body wires you need to connect to the transmission to make the reverse lights work. I want to say there's a red with blue or blue with red wire(s) that are the ones you need, but I could be wrong. Check out the wiring diagrams at the top of the Electrical section and that should tell you what wires you need. I recommend double checking and testing them too.

    If you want a factory type connection getting the harness off a T5 car will be the best option to connect the trans pigtail to the car or you can hardwire it too if you prefer. I am sure I have forgotten something but hopefully that helps.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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