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Thread: K Member Swap

  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Rick Schmidt's Avatar
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    Default K Member Swap

    My 82 started life as an inline 6 car and I was told I need to swap the K to put an 8 in her. I can somewhat see the differences by comparing my 82s bare K member with the one covered by 4 cylinder in my 84 so I know there is a difference. So I'm curious if anyone else has done this. I can't possibly have the only inline Fox that was ever thought of having a v8 lol. Any Ideas what a fair price is for a K ? what all is involved in swapping them I know the front end needs to come loose. Am I just wasting my time on a lost cause and should just go back with a 6 ??

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    FEP Power Member COLD's Avatar
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    The 4 cyl and v8 and v6 K members are the same. The inline 6 is the odd ball K member. Not that bad to change. No need to remove any body panels. Need to remove the sway bar. Take the struts loose at the top,take the steering shaft loose from the steering rack. There are I believe 4 bolts per side to take the k member loose from the frame. Two on each side at the back of the k member and two on each side in the spring perch area. You will need to remove the springs to get to them.

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member MAD MIKE's Avatar
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    Swapping K members is not hard. You will have to watch the rear inner tab bolt hole locations. Sometime around '80-'81 the inner bolt hole location changed.
    Early cars used a ~57mm spacing while the later cars used a ~50mm(I'll have to check) spacing. The outer rear tab bolt holes are in the same location on all the cars. If you plan on grabbing a later K member off a donor grab all the bolts nut serts and 'dog bones' from the rear tabs from the donor car.

    The other kicker. From '78-9/84 the early cars used a 15mm bolt to attached the R&P to the K member. Which was a metal slug with a rubber sleeve.


    10/84-up cars used a smaller 12 mm bolt with a metal sleeve to a attach the R&P to the K member with just rubber bushings.
    -Michael
    '79 Fairmont 5dr 'car guy safe' MM Tech Tips StopTech Brake Bias StopTech White Papers

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    FEP Senior Member Rick Schmidt's Avatar
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    Good info to have I'd not known the difference till I was neck deep in Fox lol. I also found in another thread there is a way to set the 8 onto the 6 K. Apparently involves a bit of elbow grease and patience but can be done. I'm going to look into both options myself a bit more work aint gonna kill me lol

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member MAD MIKE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Schmidt View Post
    I also found in another thread there is a way to set the 8 onto the 6 K.
    My only concern about that swap (IIRC it uses late 70s F150 mounts) other components(headers, solid steering shafts, etc) that may fit a ROTM V8 Kmember/302/351 may not fit with the I6 K member. Also I have no idea what height or front to back difference there may be between the F150/I6 swap to the normal V8 K member. IIRC a stock 302/C4 combo on the early car the C4 mount is at the back of the transmission crossmember slots.
    -Michael
    '79 Fairmont 5dr 'car guy safe' MM Tech Tips StopTech Brake Bias StopTech White Papers

  6. #6

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    I have an 83 capri and I put a 1992 ford mustang k frame with the bigger brakes and suspension no real modifications, drop out old and install new that's what I would do if I were you you get to upgrade brakes as well as handling,it will also come with the rack if you get it from the right place, mine came with calipers, rotors, struts, springs, and all.
    I believe it cost me 300.00 complete.

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