Mont going 3.3 to 5.0

[drivesa5]

I've been busy and haven't been on here in a while, but I thought I'd say hi and that I'm ditching the 6 for an 8 in the mont! It served me well for 3 years of daily driving, developed a bottom end knocking noise, and now it's out of there. It's relatively low miles, less than 90k, but I let it sit for about a month because it needed a muffler and I didn't get around to it and then it wasn't happy after that. Anyway, I was never much of a fan of the lack of power (merging etc was not fun).

So I have most of the stuff I need to go EFI 5.0 AOD (hey just like everything else I have) and it should be a good change, so I'm excited. Just keeping it with stock stuff for daily duty, not building for any extra power. I'm guessing the wiring won't be much different than what I had to do for CFI to EFI (green & brown connectors, etc.) but if anyone has any tips to make it easy I'm listening! I want this project to move along and get done which I'm not always good at (focusing on one vs. juggling projects). Alright enough rambling.

[Ltngdrvr]

I'm ditching the 6 in mine for a 5.0/AODE combo, going to drop it in next week.

[TWR2003]

I've been busy and haven't been on here in a while, but I thought I'd say hi and that I'm ditching the 6 for an 8 in the mont! It served me well for 3 years of daily driving, developed a bottom end knocking noise, and now it's out of there. It's relatively low miles, less than 90k, but I let it sit for about a month because it needed a muffler and I didn't get around to it and then it wasn't happy after that. Anyway, I was never much of a fan of the lack of power (merging etc was not fun).

So I have most of the stuff I need to go EFI 5.0 AOD (hey just like everything else I have) and it should be a good change, so I'm excited. Just keeping it with stock stuff for daily duty, not building for any extra power. I'm guessing the wiring won't be much different than what I had to do for CFI to EFI (green & brown connectors, etc.) but if anyone has any tips to make it easy I'm listening! I want this project to move along and get done which I'm not always good at (focusing on one vs. juggling projects). Alright enough rambling.

More details. What K? What brakes, rear? Whats you plan on exhaust?

T

[gdniel]

Post pics of your progress as well.

[Dean_T]

The 6 in the '83 Sedan is going over board too. I plan on using the stock I6 K-member since I'm keeping that car on a tight budget. Blew too much money on the A-arms and manual rack.

Post pics when you can.

Dean T

[Ltngdrvr]

I plan on using the stock I6 K-member since I'm keeping that car on a tight budget.
Dean T

I am modifying the 6 banger K also, has to be easier than swapping it out. Drill a couple of new holes and chop off the excess frame where the 6 mounts bolt on.

[drivesa5]

Cool, lots of us are doing this at the same time :) I'll try and do pics of it if I can. I'm also doing budget, everything as cheap as possible. Also using the stock i6 K. I'm going to see what I can find for exhaust, that's one thing I don't have. Whatever I can get cheap. I may keep the stock weak brakes to start, but I have calipers and rotors off an 88 turbocoupe I may end up using. The rear... undecided. I have 2 8.8s sitting around, one complete one with 3.73s and one incomplete one with 3.08s. The 7.5 in there is pretty crusty so I probably should consider swapping.

Oh yeah I'm also doing a summit hyper rebuild for the 306 and a tci rebuild for the aod (which was from the 89 & has a fried od band). Those are my major purchases. The engine is an 88k mile from a 89 GT or something like that. What are your thoughts on reusing the stock cam, lifters, pushrods, & rockers if they look decent? (I haven't looked at them in a while, had this engine for years)

The 5.0 and aode should be pretty sweet, and it's going to be fast with the Ps on there, that's what I have on my stang. Are you going full manual on the AODE or how are you handling the E part of it? :)

DeanT are you just puting in a stocker too? You said tight budget, but you mentioned a manual rack and a arms etc so I'm not sure what that means... :) Take it easy all.

[TWR2003]

I am modifying the 6 banger K also, has to be easier than swapping it out. Drill a couple of new holes and chop off the excess frame where the 6 mounts bolt on.

Since Ive never modified a I-6 K to work with the 5.0L I cant comment of its ease/difficulty. I can say that the removal/installation of a late Mustang 5.0L K is quite straight forward. Take the springs out (using a proper spring compressor for this application) and 8 bolts and the the entire K/steering rack/A-arms/struts/spindles/rotors/calipers assembly drops out. The later Ks are lighter, better designed, and incorporate revised A-arm location for improved handling and tire wear. Replacing the K also gives you the 'opportunity' to upgrade to 5.0L suspension components at the same time: A-arms, springs, struts, spindles, and brakes. Obviously budgets take precidence but I somewhat worry about 5.0L installations that utilize the early FZs marginal-at-best front suspension and braking setup.

Whatever I can get cheap. I may keep the stock weak brakes to start

The 5.0 and aode should be pretty sweet, and it's going to be fast with the Ps on there



Sorry, Im an old fart that believes:
1. Make it stop
2. Make it handle
3. Make it go

In that order
T

[Ltngdrvr]

Are you going full manual on the AODE or how are you handling the E part of it?

I'm using a ECM and harness from a '95 mustang 5.0/AODE so I will have full control of the tranny by way of TwEECer tuning.

Since Ive never modified a I-6 K to work with the 5.0L I cant comment of its ease/difficulty. I can say that the removal/installation of a late Mustang 5.0L K is quite straight forward. Take the springs out (using a proper spring compressor for this application) and 8 bolts and the the entire K/steering rack/A-arms/struts/spindles/rotors/calipers assembly drops out. The later Ks are lighter, better designed, and incorporate revised A-arm location for improved handling and tire wear. Replacing the K also gives you the 'opportunity' to upgrade to 5.0L suspension components at the same time: A-arms, springs, struts, spindles, and brakes. Obviously budgets take precidence but I somewhat worry about 5.0L installations that utilize the early FZs marginal-at-best front suspension and braking setup.


Maybe just 8 bolts to pull the whole front k out as a unit but there is a whole lot more to doing it than just that. So, I will stick with what is there and already bolted in and working.

I have already swapped out to late 5.0 brakes and spindles. I also am not worried about ultimate handling, building for best straight line performance.

[Zephyr 351C]

Get new nuts for the truck motor mounts (I used '76 F series mounts, same for left and right, two and four wheel drive), they are a different thread than the I6 mounts. Get a gear wrench for them as well, makes life much easier.

Put the motor mounts on the K member, snug them down but leave them loose enough so that you can shift them around. Drop the motor on top of the mounts.

If you can find some grade 8 studs, use them to mount the motor mounts to the block. Just makes it easier to drop the motor on the mounts. If you cant find grade 8 studs, you can use some threaded rod to get the motor in, but replace it with grade 8 bolts.

I dont know what headers will and wont work. LTs would be the biggest problem. I used BBK unequal length shorties, and still had to dimple a tube where the steering shaft rubbed it.

You dont have to cut both sides (I didnt), but if you dont cut the pass side it may interfere with the acc drive.

[drivesa5]

Thanks, I posted about this a while ago and was also told that the holes had to be slotted 3/8" or there would be tension on the mounts - did you find that?

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=62010

ALso, somewhere there is a website that has info and pics on modifying the k member ... it's driving me nuts trying to find it, I swear I bookmarked it but now I can't find it for anything. Anyone have it?

I will make it stop, what I didn't mention is I'd like to get it done before winter, but probably won't be driving it much over the winter, so I should have plenty of time to do the upgrade.

[Zephyr 351C]

It seems like I did elongate the holes a little, but cant be sure. I did this swap years ago, and the car is long gone.

[Dean_T]

Scott,

I spent some bucks on the Summit brand manual steering rack (made by Unisteer) and bought FRPP Fox lower control arms. I had some Steeda front springs laying around I grabbed off a junked car and threw them in as well.

I plan on using an '86 block but may get the pistons changed to a set with valve reliefs. I may have to use cheaper hypereuretics (sp?) rather than forged. I don't plan on nitrous or power adders so I should be fine. I plan to use the entire '86 Mustang speed density set up I retrieved from a junker.

Here's the website for the V8 using the I6 K-member swap.

Stymeesmont's website (www.geocities.com/stymeesmont/index.html)

Hope this helps.

Dean T

[drivesa5]

Thanks so much! That was driving me nuts! Sounds like a good setup, I'm also going with hypers since this is going to be a street only engine and not making much more power than stock. I've never had a manual steering car, so I don't know, but it seems like it might be a bit of a pain for a dd? I'm assuming yours isn't going to be really? I have some more tech related questions (even though this isn't tech is it) but I'll get to those later. For now I've got to post up my wanted - used parts shopping list. Take it easy.

Scott

[Ltngdrvr]

That sight is pretty good, wish the pics were bigger.

Now that has me wondering if my 87-93 vert mounts will work...???

[drivesa5]

Hm, I didn't know that was an option? That site above is all I've seen about mounts, so I was going to go with the f150s.

[Ltngdrvr]

Hm, I didn't know that was an option? That site above is all I've seen about mounts, so I was going to go with the f150s.

I'm going to grab a set of F150 mounts off the shelf so I have both when I drop it in. We'll see what it looks like when I drop it in.

Storm looks like it is going to put a kink in my swap though, have to have as much done by Friday afternoon as possible then ride out the storm friday night and saturday and hope for the best.:(

[Dean_T]

The 'vert mounts won't work in the I6 K-member. I used 'vert mounts in my '78 'Mont wagon but it originally came with a 302. Since normal Fairmont V8 mounts don't work with I6 K-members, I surmise the V8 'vert moun'ts won't either.

The manual rack isn't bad right now. It may get stiffer with a V8 and driving around in parkinglots but I used to have a '65 Mustang with the quicker ratio steering box, Shelby Quick Steering kit (Pitman and idler arm), 215/60/15 tires and a steering wheel three inches smaller in diameter than stock. It built muscles and was my daily driver for 10 years.

Dean T

[Ltngdrvr]

The 'vert mounts won't work in the I6 K-member. I used 'vert mounts in my '78 'Mont wagon but it originally came with a 302. Since normal Fairmont V8 mounts don't work with I6 K-members, I surmise the V8 'vert moun'ts won't either.

Is the part of the K-member where the V8 mount will sit taller on the 6 banger frame?

The F150 mounts are a lot shorter than the vert mounts so it would make sense that if they do work that the frame must be higher.

???

Also has me wondering about my headers fitting right...

_

[drivesa5]

The progress so far...

Yeah I have a long way to go.
Right now I'm sandblasting everything I'm going to powdercoat.

Has anyone ever pulled the bearings from a throttle body? I'd really like to powdercoat it, but I don't see how it's possible to remove them (without destroying them or the tb)

edit: note all the speedy dry .. I kinda dumped my trans fluid everywhere ... :)

[Zephyr 351C]

Is the part of the K-member where the V8 mount will sit taller on the 6 banger frame?

The F150 mounts are a lot shorter than the vert mounts so it would make sense that if they do work that the frame must be higher.

???

Also has me wondering about my headers fitting right...

_

Yes, the mounts for the I6 sit higher.

As posted above, I didnt have much of a problem with my shorties. I tried to install flowtech LTs first, but they didnt want to go in. It wasn't the K member that was the problem with them though, it was the bigger bellhousing on my C4.

[Ltngdrvr]

Yes, the mounts for the I6 sit higher.

As posted above, I didnt have much of a problem with my shorties. I tried to install flowtech LTs first, but they didnt want to go in. It wasn't the K member that was the problem with them though, it was the bigger bellhousing on my C4.

Well, I'm using Mac long tubes so I hope they fit.

[drivesa5]

A little photo update!

The freshly powdercoated upper intake (rally wheel silver) which looks kinda close to the stock color, I decided I'm doing everything this color (the plate I coated a long time ago, I may coat a different one silver)

...and I started on the engine bay today, got half of it sandblasted and bedlinered, looks pretty good I think.

For other progress I've got one valvecover, the maf, and the hard coolant lines sandblasted and ready to coat, and I've already coated the oil pan, crank pulley, water pump pulley, coil bracket, and tv cable bracket.

[drivesa5]

I haven't accomplished much, but I thought I'd update anyway: a little more powdercoating is done, and my engine rebuild kit (summit) is supposed to be arriving tomorrow! I'm taking my time though and still have a loooong ways to go...

[capriman86]

Can't wait to see this baby!

[escogt]

Can't wait to see this baby!


X2

[drivesa5]

:) I'm crossing my fingers for next summer, we'll see !

[Ltngdrvr]

:) I'm crossing my fingers for next summer, we'll see !

NEXT SUMMER???!!!???:eek:

Sheesh, I don't have that kind of patience.:confused:

[drivesa5]

Well come on over and help me out then!

...you're probably not going to like working outside on cold metal in 20 degree weather, this isn't Texas, you know ;-)