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View Full Version : Timing issues & unknown plugs..


Desi
09-01-2008, 07:03 PM
I'm lost..after we solved the overheating issue (proper radiator) we decided to change the plugs & wires, since then it has run like crap, backfiring through the carb, checked the timing, even tried the pld wires incase the newones were bad. Nothing, I have NO idea where to go at this point, we triple checked the firing order, all cylinders are hitting, pulled the distributor 4 times to make sure it was set right.
The only thing I can think of is I have something not hooked up somewhere, I noticed these two plugs http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a378/Dessl0ck/Motorswap/09-01-08_1727.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a378/Dessl0ck/Motorswap/09-01-08_1726.jpg
that dont seem to have anything plugged in, it's not the AC..anyone have a guess as to what this could be?

embler
09-02-2008, 06:00 AM
are you using the right firing order? check for vacuum leaks?

Desi
09-02-2008, 02:29 PM
no leaks that we can find, right firing order...

Cappn Tripps
09-02-2008, 03:31 PM
I think one is for the fast idle dashpot. The smaller one.
Double check the rocker arms, you might of had an exhaust rocker come loose.

rcoupe93
09-02-2008, 07:04 PM
sounds like firing order is incorrect

Desi
09-02-2008, 11:47 PM
Ok, where is the dashpot? also will look for anything on the rocker arms, though I am not sure what would be on there that could cause this.. also, I will add that the backfire is through the carb, not exhaust.. I just saw this thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=64588
so will look in that direction also, though its still odd that this didnt happen before I changed the plugs/wires.

83 V8 RS T's
09-03-2008, 12:54 AM
The blue single plug on my 83 Capri goes to the stock idle soleniod mounted on the carburator at the throttle lever(idle screw rests on this at idle). The white double connector is plugged into the WOT switch(wide open throttle switch) which is also located on the same bracket as the idle solenoid.The WOT switch when activated at full throttle controls the fuel bowl vent solenoids.
How does your crank balancer look? Is it original,might be your timing issue?

Cappn Tripps
09-03-2008, 10:07 AM
If an exhaust rocker is loose the combustion gasses cant go out through the exhaust. So when the intake valve opens it backfires out through the carb.

79302DOA
09-03-2008, 07:50 PM
Wrong firing order, wrong plugs, or the timing's off. That was all you changed, so that's more than likely where the problem lies.

I've sworn up and down many a time that I installed the wires correctly, or dropped the dizzy in properly, and still had a miss or backfire, even after re-dfoing it 2 or 3 times. It happens to all of us. When you finally figure it out, you'll wonder how you ever missed it or screwed it up in the first place.

kingstang
09-03-2008, 07:56 PM
are you sure you put the plug wires on the right terminals and plugs???

Desi
09-04-2008, 09:53 PM
Yeah, I have reset them at least 3 times since this post started, including trying the old wires.. I am completly lost on this, even went so far as trying the non HO firing order, just in case.. no luck, at all.

85ttop
09-05-2008, 12:24 PM
Have you checked to see if you have a vacuum leak?

JACook
09-05-2008, 01:01 PM
Check again. It's gotta be firing order.

Let's start with the basics. Ford cylinders are numbered 1-2-3-4, front to rear,
on the passenger side, and 5-6-7-8 front to rear, on the driver side. The distributor
turns counter-clockwise as viewed from above.

Non-HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.

You first need to make sure the distributor is properly clocked so that the '1' mark
on the cap is really #1 cylinder, TDC, on the power stroke. To do this, rotate the
engine with the #1 spark plug removed, and a finger or thumb over the hole.
When you feel compression, you know you're on the right stroke. Keep turning
until you stop feeling compression. You should then be near TDC. Don't rely
on the marks on the damper, because you don't know if the ring has de-laminated.
At the point where you stopped feeling compression, your rotor should be pointing
at the #1 tower on the distributor cap. If it's not, you need to pull the distributor
and put it back in right. Then wire up the cap with the correct firing order.

IF you have the distributor in 180* out, AND you're using the wrong firing order,
the engine will run pretty much like you describe. The key is, if you switch to the
other firing order, and it starts and runs pretty much like it did before, then your
distributor is 180* out.