My SVO Motor Mayhem

[SchoolBoy]

Well since I have been MIA lately, I figured it was time to share why. My svo developed a rod nock shortly after buying it, so I drove it until I could here it at idel. Thats when I parked it for a few months until I had time to pull the motor and inspect it. Well the time came in the last week of june. Chalky came up and helped dad and I pull the little beast out. And all I can say is that chalk was invaluable for the pull and tear down! Once the motor was out we found a number of things that has lead to a full rebuild. Right off the bat we found that the block was a replacement with a factory rebuilt head on it. The turbo was in decent shape with the blades in perfect shape, but the bearings were gone. Not bad considering its most likely the original. Got the head off and it looked good too, but it will need valve stem seals. The bottem end was another story. There was good evidence of abuse, overheating, and detination present. So to find out more I tore it all the way down and took it to the machine shop.
The machine shop results came back that it would need an overbore, crank polished, a valve job, new cam and rockers. So with info in hand I ordered new .020 pistions, rings, rubber water lines, aux cam bearings, gaskets, turbo feed line, and a 180 fan control switch from MotionDynamics. From Forced4, I ordered there CAI with bypass kit, there motocraft tune up kit, PCV valve, fuel filter, intercooler hose kit, and a acufab FPR just so I can play with some greater boost. The machine shop is getting the bearings for the crank, cam bearings, oil pump, an 86 camshaft, and the rockers. I also sent my turbo out to evergreen turbo for a rebuild. It just showed up today and charlie did a sweet job on the thing.

Enough yapping its time for some pics.......

Keep this sad image in your head, because I am cleaning it way up.
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Good old rust under the battery box....
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Stripped down far enough to pull it....
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Group shots
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With the trans and intake off, chalky is preparing himself to crack this thing open...
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Heads off, but the cam dosen't turn smooth... Uh Ho
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/photoPost/data/757/medium/JuneSVO_078.jpg

One of main caps was on backwards, and the crank didn't turn smooth until all rods were out.
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Almost all the bearings looked like this.
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And one bare empty block.
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Oh ya heres one of dad, being dad!
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Thats it until I can take more pics off the camera.....

[chalkysexplorer]

Note to all, I normally only drink Dutch Bros coffee but there wasn't one close by. Besides, the girlfriend was buying and she prefers the 'buck.

Glad to help Nelson, I love gettin ma hands dirty and can't wait to bolt it back together this coming weekend. Let me check to see if I've got an spare E6 exhaust manifold laying around and if so I'll port one out for you.

Lastly, now that you know my detailing secrets, you better get to work if you want to have the nicest looking SVO engine at the BBQ this year:):):)

[SchoolBoy]

If you want to take a crack at an e-6 go for it. I was going to take mine in and have the machine shop open outlet hole so its not D shaped buts thats it. I was also going to have him open the heads exhaust ports up to, but based on the numbers on svoca, I would only be taking an 1/8th inch off each port so I pased on it. Seams like they were already opened up once and the intake show definate signs of this. As for detailing, it will be kinda hoj pojjed due to the dead line. But at least the intercooler is almost done, the valve cover is coming along slowly, and I still need to take the intake apart and paint it. So the top half should look good, just don't look down.

[captnet]

Good to see your working on the car Schoolboy! I remember you talking about it a while back :) I bet it will turn out real nice.

[RichV]

Sweet! That's what I get to do this off-season. Mine runs fine, I just need to detail it and reseal the motor.

OT, does anyone know if a decent set of poly mounts exist for an SVO? And if I get some, do the hydraulic dampners need to be re-installed?

[SchoolBoy]

Good to see your working on the car Schoolboy! I remember you talking about it a while back :) I bet it will turn out real nice.

I hope so, but at this point I will be happy with running. I have been sick today, so I didn't make any progress what so ever.


Sweet! That's what I get to do this off-season. Mine runs fine, I just need to detail it and reseal the motor.

OT, does anyone know if a decent set of poly mounts exist for an SVO? And if I get some, do the hydraulic dampners need to be re-installed?

For the poly mounts look up motionDynamics, I know the have them, but you will need to call and talk to someone.

[86GT2go]

Looks like my 84GT Turbo right now...only I am doing mine because I am sadistic, not because I had too!!

[anthonydalrymple]

Looking good..... Progress, though slow is progress nonetheless!

[SchoolBoy]

5 Days to go before I want to fire the thing up, let the count down begin.... Now for more pictures!


Crank after getting cleaned, and wear marks from the dirty build up...
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Here is the block all cleaned up.
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Casting marks, and the select fit order for the original pistions.
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This will be the last time he volinters to work on my car for 5 bucks....:D
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All clean, well its better anyways.
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How do you stop rust, smother it until I can aford to fix it correctly.
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Cleaned up and painted x-brace.
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Pistions.... Woop Woop!!!
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Intercool is almost done!
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Pain in the ass valve cover. The wrinkle finsh will not give up.
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[86GT2go]

Looking good! Did you use Aircraft stripper from Kleen-Strip to do the valve cover?

[82HATCH]

Cool project!

[evlgt85]

Those are some great pics. Looks like you guys have fun in the face of mechanical adversity. Very cool.

I think the one of Neil needs a caption pretty badly, though. :lol:

[anthonydalrymple]

Underhood Neil is watching you!;)
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[SchoolBoy]

Looking good! Did you use Aircraft stripper from Kleen-Strip to do the valve cover?

Its aircraft stripper for sure sold by shucks...


Those are some great pics. Looks like you guys have fun in the face of mechanical adversity. Very cool.

I think the one of Neil needs a caption pretty badly, though. :lol:

I feel a contest might be in order...



Underhood Neil is watching you!;)
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Oh but thats not dad. That is someone you will meat in near futre...:hsrun:

[futurexdesign]

SchoolBoy, Good work so far.. But seriously, Replace the Rag Joint now while you can get to it easily. Having just changed one with the engine in place, it is a horrible pain in the rear!

Other than that, Keep it up!

[SchoolBoy]

We will check it out, but it felt very tight last time I drove it.

[futurexdesign]

haha they fail when you least suspect it...

[82mustang]

lookin good nelson, looks like at least 2 peojects will be done in time for the BBQ, i'm really excited for it

[WHTLTHR79RS]

All you guys are lucky, I have to LIVE with these 2 goofballs....arrrgggggg.

Dad

[stockhatch]

Lookin' good fellers! If you want to take the paint off that valve cover, use some permatex gasket remover. It comes in a spray can and sucks to remove gaskets, but takes skin and paint off very nicely.

[84GT Ragtop]

Underhood Neil is watching you!;)
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I is under yer hood pedalin' fast.

[SchoolBoy]

Ok so there is no way the svo will be under it own power for the BBQ. It will most likely be next month before its ready. I simply have to much money into this to rush it along. So I did make some more progress with the valve cover. I got it fully stripped, sanded the area's I wanted to polish up, and polished it. What a long tedious process that was. I found that the cover even had a grain to it. It would clean up better sanding in one direction vs another, most weird. after I cleaned that all up, I washed it with dawn dish soap to get all the crap off. To mask it I used green masking tape and a hobbie knife. The super fine areas like the ford oval and small lettering was cover with a film. Its a watery substance that forms a protective film when it dries. It worked ok for what I was doing. I painted the valve cover in low gloss black dupla color 500 degree paint. If I was do it all over, I would take the valve cover, intercooler, intake, exhaust manifold and have them all blasted then powder coated, end of story. My way works ok, but it a ton of work for an end product that scratch's way easy! Now for the pics.....:D

Here is the cover, striped and polished.
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Here is how it looked masked and filmed.
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Fresh from paint, almost looks grey in these pics...
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I removed the masking tape only because the paint was still very fresh.
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All done, watcha think....
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Dad went nutz cleaning the garage, this is the after math.
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So much crap for a 4 banger....
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[mfpmax]

Is the valve cover getting a coat of clear?

[SchoolBoy]

Not at this time. Should it?

[mfpmax]

All up to you. Just that any exposed raw aluminum that gets wet may get ugly.

[JohnnyGT]

looks good man

[SchoolBoy]

Will the clear stick to the aluminum that has been polished?

[SchoolBoy]

Update time!:woowoo:

Dad and I Decided to paint the block, head, and oil pan before we started installing anything, because it was easier to clean. So we slapped it together and shot it.

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All done, with the masking removed.
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I just had to do it....
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Once that was done, were tore it all apart, cleaned the block, crank, bearings, and then the fun started. We plastigaged all the mains on a dry run. We were rewarded with all good and even numbers.
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Once that was done, we broke out the lube and went to town for real.
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After the crank was in and secured, the pistions were dropped in for their plastigage dry run. They also came back with great results...
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So with that done, we lubed em up and secured the pistions for the finall time. When we had all 4 slugs in it only took 18 ftlbs to turn the mess. So not bad at all. Now here is a little foot note, supposidly the 2.3T rods were sorced from the boss 302.:eek: Guess thats why the bottem end in these things can take such a beating. Next on the list was the oil pump and pick up for the bottem end, after a good clean/lube job. The front end recevied the water pump, aux cam with cover, and front crank seal.
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With that done we moved to cleaning the head. Man there was a lot of crap left over in it. A little gas, pipe cleaners and compressed air later the head was ready for assembly. So we installed all the exhaust valves, and called it a night.

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So with that I will call it a night, till next time.

[f4fntm]

Wow! Lookin' good, Nelson. Your old man was telling me about camshaft lobe issues last weekend... you gonna cover that here? We need updates!

And stop making poor Nolan do the dirty work for immigrant wages, lol! He should be working on his own foureye by now, craigslist is silly with 'em.

[Chuck W]

Looks good. Ford Grey FTW!

[Jax Rhapsody]

I like what you did with the valve cover and i/c cover. I wish the regular valvecover had as much character. I wish I had the money to mod my 2.3 and paint it etc.

[Hooptie]

Now I want to trade you a little more.

[NTAHORS]

Here is the block all cleaned up.
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Was that block just Hot Tanked ? I have had many blocks cleaned and they never come out that good.

[SchoolBoy]

thanks guys, I have been waiting to the damn camera back, now I need to figure out what I need to upload. As for the valve cover, there is always something you can do to spice it up. Do you have a pic of yours? The block was media clean, kinda like sandblasted. All I know is we cant use hot tanks out here anymore unless you already had one.

[Paul]

It looks like that block went through a Wheelabrator shot-blasting machine. Those things rule.

Oh, and nice build-up. Seeing one go back together gives me hope for The Croke's '84 Capri. :)

Paul.

[SchoolBoy]

Paul there is always hope especialy when someone named croke is calling the shots!

Ok I know this late, but here we go.....

After we got going on this again the intake valves went in along with the HLA's, cam and rockers. What we didn't know at the time was that the cam we just put in was undersized BADLY. It was so bad that the rockers would not make contact with the base of the cam. To make thing worse it wasn't a 86 cam like I asked for, it was an A234 FMS cam.

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Now because I opted for the better cam bearings, you have to block the oil galley in the top of the arches. Well on the front one we had to cut it down so that the valve cover gasket would seal. This also ment cutting the little bump off the gasket. Once that was done, we glued that part of the gasket to the head.


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Once that was taken care of I had enough down time, to inspect/ disasemble/ clean/ paint/ and reasemble the intake. These pics show the tear down, and ispection. What I found was cool tho. The low part of the intake had been completely ported from gasket to gasket. At this point I got to wondering, YEP the head had also been port to max size on the intake and exhaust runners. SWEET!!!:p

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To bad they didn't do the top too....
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But he sure did the lower!
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More coming soon!

[Zap's 85 GT]

Are you going to run a water cooled turbo? I noticed the plug was still in the block for the coolant drain line.

[SchoolBoy]

Zap's 85 GT, I ran a none water cooled turbo, infact I belive its the original. I just had evergreen turbo do a rebuild. Man was it was worth every penny guys! Also I said these updates are late, the motor has been up and running now for a week. I have about 60 mile on it so far. But more on that later..

[SchoolBoy]

Ha see I told you more was coming soon.


Ok done compairing the size of my ports dad and I put the pan on with some grey silicone, bolt her together, and flipped the beast over for the last time. Once it was rolled over the head studs went in with some lube. They went in so easy after the bottem tap was run in them. With the studs in finger tight the head gasket was laid in place and the guids were put in.

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With the head on and torqued down the cam seal, rear front cover, and pulleys went on. Everything was brought to TDC and was double checked.

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Once that was done dad and I turned back to the fuel rail on the intake. For some odd reason some of the early fuel rails had this overlap on top. This makes it impossible to but a AFPR on the rail without grinding it away. So that what we did.
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With that taken care of we turned our attention to the exhaust manifold and turbo! Oh ya getting into the good stuff now!

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Drain line and front brackets going on.
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Dad making fun of my "little toy motor!"
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futurexdesign was right the rag joint needed to be replaced. So we did on a quick side deal.
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[SchoolBoy]

Ah yes water lines. I F'N HATE water lines. I was able to reuse the ones I had, so I sanded them down and shot em before I stuck them on. Also I found out that I have the wrong thermastat housing on this motor. I did figure that out until last week. Gee no wonder why stuff didn't line up.

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This was taken after we primed the oil system. First we did it by hand, then dad got out the drill motor. Turning the pump with the drill netted 40 pounds oil pressure, thats a good thing.

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This group of photos show the intake painted, installed, and more water line shots. I only did the upper part of the intake as I didn't want to mess with the injectors. Also the dipstick, and crack case breather system are back in place.

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Once that was done I got the oil feed line went on. To do that we took a 1" pipe extention and cut it in half and rethreaded it with a 90 degree fitting on top. Now its sweet! A little bit of saftey wire and we should be good to go. Also to do that we had to flip the oil pressure sender, but it was no big deal.

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[SchoolBoy]

These shots show that even if you were to run with or without the intercooler support brackets, the oil line would clear everything.

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[mfpmax]

Very good thing they redesigned the intercooler system when they did the 87/88 cars...i'd probably shot myself with all that stuff. Especially the way they routed the water lines.

[Paul]

That looks mighty fine. :) Great work!!

[SchoolBoy]

Thanks guys! Like dad says, sometime engineers need to be just flat out shot.


With a little saftey wire on the turbo/feed line, it was time to hoist the thing up and prep for the trans. To that end dad dug around his left overs until he found a suitable rear main seal pounding tool. Just look down, you'll get the idea.:D Once Chalky was done being amazed it was time to bolt up the flywheel and clutch. Both of witch were in great shape, and supposidly new, so back on they went...

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Well now, what is the simplest way to bolt up a trans, well its simple. Just grab your trusty garbage can and wheel the motor up to it, adjust your height, angel and wola one trans bolted up and ready to go!

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Look at the loney little svo, awaiting its new heart.
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/photoPost/data/757/medium/DSC05858.JPGhttp://vb.foureyedpride.com/photoPost/data/757/medium/DSC05859.JPG



Well at this point I was really pushing the guys hard. It was 8:00 am and I had untill 11:00am befor I needed to be at work. So with a few last minutes shots, we stuffed the motor back where it belonged.

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After I left at 11, it took dad and chalky 8hrs of fighting with the beast to get it ready to fire off. When I showed up at 8pm chalky and I still had to put down pipe on and prime it. Also I would like to add that because I ran a flat tappet cam we added a bottle of ZDDP+. With out that bottle of goodness, I am sure that the motor would have eatten the cam, sending crap all back through out the motor. That may not sould like a big deal, but remember when I said the cam wasn't making contact with the followers at base. Well we broke the motor in for 20minutes with cam only running on the extreams of the lobes. Then we took and drove it for 2miles because the damb lifters were still noisey as hell. We at the time thought they simpley hadn't pumped up all the way. Boy were we wrong!

[WHTLTHR79RS]

I will add to the cam problem question: We ordered a "new-reground" cam from the machine shop, and insisted on stock 86 spec SVO cam. What we got was a cam that had a base circle of .097 thou. under size from Ford spec. There was .029 thou. difference in base circle from large to small, lobe lift was .025 thou. OVER the .400 thou. spec of the stock SVO, and there was .019 thou. difference between lobes. We ended up with a lobe to rocker lash of over .090 thou. and that is why it was so loud running that we had to walk away to talk. After we pulled the bad cam out, and I threatened the cam grinder with his life, ( I don't have time for that kind of crap),we got a cam that was within +/- .002 thou. of factory specs, and I was able to achieve the .045 thou. spec that is called for in the book for lash setting with the HLA's collapsed. (story and how to soon in another thread).

"Dad"

[SchoolBoy]

Ya what he said! So here are the shots I took during that mess.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/photoPost/data/757/medium/DSC05879.JPG


The hla's after being cleaned and mesured.
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/photoPost/data/757/medium/DSC05896.JPG



Oh ya, we had to make this nifty little valve spring compress. It looks crude, but it works very well.

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This is the new cam, thankfully it seams to be working. I came real close to spending the money for a boport stg 1.1 or 1.5 cam.
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/photoPost/data/757/medium/DSC05893.JPG


Something I am going to have to deal with is this small exhaust leak. Any Idea's?

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That all for now folks, I hope you enjoyed the pics. Because I just put up 100+ pics in 4hrs. Next update should cover the CAI with bypass kit, and the AFPR all from forced4. These are my goodies I have yet to put on, and I cant weight!

[WHTLTHR79RS]

I have to add that the numbers on the HLA's are missing the "2"...they are measured at 2.7xx inch with the internal spring removed, and the HLA bottomed out. The longest one went into the deepest hole, ect.

Neil

[RichV]

Looks awesome! You may need to deck the E6 to make sure it's flat and it will probably fix the leaks. Do that before you ceramicoat it. :D I get to do mine when the snow starts flyin, this is an inspirational thread!!

[83rsturbo]

I used copper spray gasket on my exhaust. help with leaks

[SchoolBoy]

Actualy I think I know whats wrong. The turbo support brace is on wrong or to tight, forcing the manifold away from the head. This would make sence since it only leaks on the top of the manifold.



Also as of this week the svo has just officaly survived it first year in a v8 dominated house hold. I think it has found its 4th home for good.:pimp:

[tman1257]

Looking good Schoolboy.

[SchoolBoy]

Ok time for a real time update......

I got the turbo and exhaust manifold off a week or two ago. With it off I took the manifold in and had it milled just enough to clean it up. So tonight dad and I almost got it all back together. Just need to clean the oil out of the flex hose that leads to the turbo and fire it up. Once I can verifie that its not leaking I will be swapping the accel coil out. Its seams the motor is blowing the fire out around 4k rpms. I have had a real belly full of these after market set ups. Every time we have had ignition truble on the 428SCJ wagon and now the svo it has been cased by after market junk. The wagon ran perfect with a real ford unit back at home under the hood. The next major stepping stone will be making sure I only have 8-10 psi Of boost until I rack up my 500 miles.

[f4fntm]

So how we lookin'? Are we up and running?

[WHTLTHR79RS]

Yes we are as of 10:30 am today...runs good and runs quiet. Still have the spark failing at 10 boost, bit will try a new coil soon.

[Jcamper]

That sure sounds like the issues I was chasing with mine...turned out to be weak valve springs. Jcamper

[SchoolBoy]

Well After I get off work thursday I will be investigating. My money is still on the coil tho.

[82HATCH]

Congrats on the progress. Looks great!

[StangBoy]

-fram? :(

[Hissing Cobra]

Looking good! I love all the pic's and the detail work that went into the engine. I hope you can get the flame to stay alive. You're not too far off. Good luck!

[SchoolBoy]

Well It went pop going to work this morning. I left a cloud of white smoke, and oil all over 3 lanes of freeway that stuck around for 3-4 minutes... It looked just like a nascar going up in smoke.:x After I heard the pop, I looked in my rear view mirror and I couldn't help but think "hey thats really cool, where did all the cars go." Then the steering wheel got stiff and I knew I was in deep crap! I have coolent everywhere, and pure oil in the tail pipe. So after dinner and a dog walk, dad and I will tear it down tonight......

[WHTLTHR79RS]

"Dad" is pretty pissed off right about now, cost me a day's work to get it towed home. Had to throw a quick heater core into his red Capri ( the reliable car ) so he could have something to drive to work.

"Dad"

[84NAVYCAT]

OH dad I need some help too! No just kidding Neil.

[SchoolBoy]

Ok well Here are some of the pics I took while dad and I tore the motor down. The poor beast only had 311 miles on it.

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As you can see there is oil and coolent everywhere.

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Take clean paper towel and stick it in the tail pipe to get pure oil...

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Here if you look closey, you see water mixed in with the oil and it everywhere.

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When dad got the alt off he noticed this.... Oh that cant be good....

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Pull the front cover to find this....

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So ya the head gasket on #1 didn't just pop, it blew it clean out. The hunk of metal sticking out is the ring that seals around the bore. We didn't get the head off tonight but mybe by tomarrow. I am still worried we might pull the head to find a broke pistion.... Worst case!

[89 AZ SSP]

WOW!!!

[tman1257]

Were you under boost or just cruising along when this happened?

[myler]

Dang! What happened?

Edit: this thread is now appropriately titled. lol

[escogt]

HOLY S--T :o

[WHTLTHR79RS]

passing a guy on the freeway at about 6 to 8 lbs boost...and " POP" goes the head gasket. Good thing we didn't start tearing his Capri down for the big rebuild.

dad

[Chuck W]

How the hell did you manage that at only 6-8# boost?
You probably should retorque the head studs next time after a heat cycle.

On your original spark issue...what were your plug gaps?

[WHTLTHR79RS]

used ARP studs / nuts. bottom tapped the threads, finger tight the studs into the holes, lubed washers and nuts, torqued to 75 in 3 stages, proper sequence ( per Mike Flemming at SVOCA), milled the head. don't have answer yet, be a few more days.
orginal gaps on plugs were 042, dropped them down to 032, and replaced the coil. Ran real good.

Neil

[Chuck W]

I've seen 80# on the studs with the ARP lube. If you used motor oil you need to go higher. You should also heat cycle and cool and retorque those. Loosen 1/4 turn and retorque to spec.

[AT6svo]

Awe man. That really sucks, esp after all that work. :(

My guess is that it was just a HG.

Since we're on that subj, what HG were you running?

[gregpro50]

Never seen that happen before.

For the gasket to blow right out the side like that something with the head mating up to the block isnt right. Torque, warpage... I dont know.

[SchoolBoy]

Well you guys are not going to believe the Sh!t! I lost the gasket in two places. This was an epic fail!

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:(

[gregpro50]

I've never seen such a catastrophic HG failure like that. Something aint right.

[WHTLTHR79RS]

The head gasket was felpro's 8993.

[84NAVYCAT]

Thats amazing! Never seen that either, You think a bad or wrong H/G?

[SchoolBoy]

Found the problem, the rubber vacume line that runs from the vacume tree on the drivers side to the gillis valve melted down by the turbo charger and left a 1-2 inch hole in the line. So I had absolutly no controle over the wast gate. This caused the turbo to over boost and wipe out the head gasket. So in reality the gasket did its job by letting go and protecting the rest of the motor. So everyone who has a aftermarket BCS need to go do a quick check to make sure this can't happen to you! Pic to come latter tonight....

[gregpro50]

I was going to say... That doesnt look like 8-10psi of boost right there. Still, I can run 20 lbs in mine without that happening.

[Hissing Cobra]

Holy crap! With that amount of anti-freeze that got inside the engine, do you think it took out the bearings? Damn, I hope it doesn't cost you an arm and a leg to get it repaired. Good luck and let us know how it's going.

[AT6svo]

Kudos for finding the exact problem. No feedback to the WG would definitely cause catastropic failure. Bet all you gotta do is clean her back up, change rad fluid, oil, install new HG and you'll be back in business.

[Chuck W]

Well I guess he wasn't only boosting 6-8# or whatever he said was he? ;)

That makes much more sense for the HG failing like it did.

[WHTLTHR79RS]

6 to 8 lbs was what the gauge said at the moment he looked at it, then his eyes went back to driving. We had no idea that we were over 20+ with out any signal getting to the waste gate...lesson learned. Re-routing of lines will be posted in a few days.
Neil

[86crazyhorse]

glad to see you found the problem .im still amazed that it blew like that.

[83rsturbo]

The over boost buzzer should have gone off unless you have it disconnected

[SchoolBoy]

Yes the overboost buzzer should have gone off, but it never did. I am not even sure it it is working. But dad took the better part of today and tore the head apart and gave it back to the machine shope to fix the gasket surface. So kelly put it on the the slow cut witch took 45 minutes or so. I don't care how long it took but the end result was sweet. I will let the pics do the talking. I also have picked up an intake gasket kit, and another felpro 8993. I did that because the last one did its job and let go at 22+ psi, thus protecting the bottem end from damage had detonation come into the picture.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/photoPost/data/757/DSC06038.JPG
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[84NAVYCAT]

I was gonna say you should index the plugs till I saw the second picture.
P.S Thanks for those websites on the inline 6 motors....alloy heads with intake...big carbs/cam.... It might be good... Also john recieved the payment and I'm going on a road trip to san fran. in 2 weeks to get it. I check the vin# and it was ordered in oakland and built in san jose. talk about a local...

[SchoolBoy]

Well it lives sorta. Dad and I got it to run tonight for a about 2 minutes and it was already starting to show temp on the gauge and I had all kinds of oil pressure just like when it was new. So I think the bottem end is ok, witch is such a releaf! But it wasn't timed right and it was smoking like crazy do to the oil I simple couldn't get off everything. We also found more wiring that had been repaired poorly so that will get fixed.

It was kinda cool to watch the turbo/intercooler smoke like a toaster oven after we shut it off....;)

[8T3Hatch]

Nice!

Can't wait to hear your thoughts once it's running around under its own power again

[SchoolBoy]

8T3Hatch, I will give ya full review after I get some time in the hot seat.



As for the beast well dad spotted some bad wireing so we attacked that. The TPS and the IACV wiring both had bear sections of wire hanging out. So that all had to be repair and rerouted. Here is the mess.....
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Once that mess was sorted out we took it out for a few short trips up and down the street to burn the crap out of the cat and everything else. Man did it make a smoke show! Even the cops were looking for us after one pass that covered the road like a thick fog. After that I parked it and had to leave it until this week. I got tired of not knowing exactly what I was running for boost so I ordered a 2 5/8 singal gauge pod and autometer boost gauge should be here soon. And since it was been snowing and damn cold out I dug out my CAI from forced4 and put it in. Its a very nice and well thought out kit. I had trouble putting mine in because my frame rail was a little messed up. With the help of some major channel locks I bent the lip around enought to get the box in. I think I finally found where my svo was hit back in 95. Oh well you cant tell from the out side. If your car is straight this should just drop right in. Just a FYI tho, put the S bend pipe on the turbo inlet then drop the vam in and push it on. Then lastly put the filter on and tighten all of the clamps. Also as you can see if you don't run the factory correct S bend upper rad hose you will have interferance.
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Now later on after I get another 2-3 hundered miles on it I will add the the bypass kit that came with the CAI. Untill then I simply plugged the hole with a rubber foot off a cane.

[chalkysexplorer]

Lookin good Nelson, now go out and give a good thrashin'!!!!!!!

BTW, since you are running a Gillis you don't need the BCS and BCM but i like the way you mounted them. Nice:):)

[AT6svo]

A big plus on what Chalky said!

Like the CAI setup, very slick. :tu:

[SchoolBoy]

I left the BCS based on the gillis valve instructions.


We'll since we have a foot and half of snow and they're calling for more I may not get to take the car out untill after x-mas or even the new year. So in the mean time since my boost gauge showed up I will get that mounted, painted and intstalled. That way when I finally do get the svo out I can see what I am really running.
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[chalkysexplorer]

Nelson, get some of Duplicolors HVP111 charcoal interior paint before you bolt that pod in. Also, it makes it easier if you angle the gauge so that your target boost setting is with the arrow straight up. EG, my boost is set at 17psi and the gauge is clocked so that at 17psi the needle is at 12 o'clock or straight up. Means you don't really have to look at the gauge to know where it is.

Just a thought, works for me anywyas:):):)

[SchoolBoy]

Ya I was playing with that earlier, but so far twisting it makes thing harder to focus on. I don't know yet, need to play with it more. I am going to try and find some of that paint tomarrow so I can get it in. On a sad not that pillar trim came out of my uncles 85 gt that was in the junk yard. The guy he sold it to beat the hell out of it. the trim was about the only good part left so I pull the tags and gave them to him...:(

[SVO4PWR2]

nice stuff going on over there :tu: btw you can unplug and remove the Motorcraft box & the boost control solenoid since you have the Gillis valve.

-RICH-

[84NAVYCAT]

Nelson,
If you want to test it and check out the system you can get some flex pipes anf run it from the exhaust to under the closed garage door, we all love the smell but it kills....lol

[WHTLTHR79RS]

We have the flex rubber pipes, but to keep the garage door cracked open is bad now caus the garage is heated...lets all the warm air out.

[84NAVYCAT]

I knew you were spoiled Neil...Heated garages....Please!

[rcoupe93]

very cool informative thread

[WHTLTHR79RS]

Ya, Joe...heated garage, thanks to me wife last year. this morning it is only 4* outside, but inside the garage it is 55. got it turned down a little to save heating costs, but the plan was to heat the garage and shop when I built the house, so 2x6 walls, insulated doors, and lots of insulation everywhere...

[Hissing Cobra]

Good updates! I hope that when you do take it back out, it runs like a champ. It's good to see that you bought a boost gauge too. It's an uncomfortable feeling when you're not too sure about what's going on.

[84NAVYCAT]

Neil, its bringing back so many bad memorys of the cold here on the news.

[WHTLTHR79RS]

GOOD Grief !!! we got another 9 " last night...Me and the kid were pulling snow off the chicken pen and the carport ( Capri ) at midnight, and had to do it again at 4:30 am... I was up to my crotch in the snow this am....make it go away !!! this blows.

as a side note to keep this on track, the SVO has not moved out of the warm garage for 10 days, and won't for another 7 to 10 days... rumor has it that Chalky has been reduced to driving his G/F's honda to work....LOL

[chalkysexplorer]

NEIL!!!!! I told you that in confidence damn it!!!!!:):):):)

[84NAVYCAT]

Well its a balmy 55* and raining here on the coast I hope it stops soon, i want to go to san fran to get my 9D black magic and start working on it.

[WHTLTHR79RS]

Guess I had better stop talking to the girlfriend when you are at work, huh ??

JUST KIDDING !!!

[ricky85gt]

Lookin good keep it up

[8T3Hatch]

Glad to see you got it back together, seeing those pics made me nervous for you!

[8T6 SVO]

SchoolBoy,

Just read your great thread here. Here are my 2 cents.

Back 5 years ago, I was researching the install of 1035 head gaskets with ARP studs - everyone was blowing head gaskets at the time and was blaming the problem on either the head gasket or the ARP studs. Some Mechanically inclined person determined that the proper way of installing the ARP head studs, was to tourque them down with 10 - ft/lbs and to use loctite to avoid any loose or improper torquing of the head. I read in your prior post that you installed the studs "hand tight".

When I finally assembled my head back then, I following these rules, and I have never had any issue. I have not heard anymore of the tail of the ARP head studs and the 1035 Fel pro gasket since, maybe this issue finally went away.

This may not be your problem, but just my insight on perhaps your previous head gasket issue. Esslinger recommends this protocall when installing the ARP studs as well:

http://www.esslingeracing.com/tech/headstuds_mainstuds.pdf

Hope this helps!

[SchoolBoy]

That is all good stuff! Dad and I simple followed ARP's directions when we put the stud in. And I didn't run the 1035 because as of lately there had been issues with them weaping coolent. So Jim at motion dynamics got me the stocker instead. The stocker will also keep me from getting to radical with the daily driver. Honestly I am glad the head gasket let go. Its alot simpler than fixing a bent rod!

[SchoolBoy]

Ok Its update time again!


While making good use of my snow days dad and I attacked the gauge pod install. First I removed the dash bezzel, dash pad, and the original a pillar trim. The original trim peace was put way for safe keeping. In its place I had a grey one from the junk yard. With the replacement pillar in place I had dad hold the pod where I thought I wanted it. Next I tried to put the dash pad back in, it would not go in. So I had dad move the pod up the pillar more. After a few trial and errors I picked the location for the pod. It would be far enough up the pillar to get the dash pad in and out, but I was still able to access the screw that hold the pillar on when the gauge is pulled out. Once that spot was marked on the piller we clamped the pod on and used the drill press to make four holes for the push pins to go through along with holes for the wiring....

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Once that was taken care of it was time for paint. After washing it with dawn dish soap and warm water I shot it with duplacolors HVP-111. It turned out rather well and the color was spot on. My mistake was shoting at 60 degree temp, the can calls for 75. This caused the paint to not flow was well as it should but unless your right on top of it you woun't notice. Come summer I will pull all of the interior out and shoot everything but the dash core itself. Chris ya wanna flock my dash bezels?

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Now it was down to the easy stuff like wiring the light and T'ing into the existing vacume line under the dash. Much easier said than done. I had an hour long fight with the vacume line. I finally had to take the drivers seat out, and unbolt the hood pull cable from under the dash before I could get under the dash far enough to reach up and snag the vacume line that runs to the dash. But once I had it I put the supplied T and a 6 inch extention of vacume hose on to make it easier to access just in case. This was far from comfy but had to be done.....

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Next I ran the supplied vacume hose down the inside of the dash and connected it to the T. Then I stuffed some speaker wire down the same path. I would use this for power and ground. Since power needed to be tied in with the dimmer switch I found the orange wire leading to the cd player. I did this to minimize splices. For gound I crimped on an end and srewed it in with the cd player gound. Moving back up top I cut the vacume hose and the wiring to ruff lenght, making sure I had more than enough. I feed that mess through the pillar trim and screwed it inplace. For the power and ground wires I Trimed some more excess lenght off and crimped disconnect connecters on. And I made sure that the power lead was one type and the ground was another. This way I cant cross the too when connecting the leads but I could quick disconnect them if I needed to take the gauge out. And with connecting the vacume line to gauge I carefully suffed everything in the pod, ah almost there. I cleaned out all the tools put the seat back in along with the dash bits and when for a drive. Works great and 2 5/8 gauges is so readable at a glace I would recamend this to anyone with a svo.

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