Can you paint over POR-15?

[PureVenom]

Once the motor is out tomorrow, stripping and rust repair beings. Perfect world, I say I can work one panel at a time stripping it down to metal and then seal it with POR-15 with plans of painting over it once everything is done.

I'm fine with getting the panels in primer while the POR-15 is still tacky if that is what it would take.

Basically, my concern is getting the bare metal sealed before it has time to re-rust in this Louisiana humidity. However, it needs to be able to be painted over once I finish the body work in a few months.

Now, if there is a better way and I am just making things difficult, any suggestions will be greatly appreciated as this whole process is all new to me.

Also, I don't expect this to be the final prime before the painting process. This is just enough to seal the bare metal, and make the surface ready for the paint shop to do the final prep work and finish work.

[82mustang]

i would get some sealer-primer instead, why take risk? from what i hear POR 15 is more like an undercoating anyway

[86GTdriver]

I'd say after using POR15 and it converts the rust, sand it down, and then use a good etch primer from a rattle can if the area is small. PPG makes a good rattle can etch primer.

[ricko302]

I can not comment on POR-15, but I used some rust converter on a hood after I stripped it and it started to get surface rust. Very BAD idea! It looked good for a while, but after a couple of years, all the paint lifted on the hood where I used the rust converter.

I painted the car 10 years ago, and the hood is the only place that has flaws in it now.

[PureVenom]

i would get some sealer-primer instead, why take risk? from what i hear POR 15 is more like an undercoating anyway

DO you have a recommendation as to what sealer/primer to use? This is going to be the entire car, so it isn't just a small section.

[Dean_T]

I agree, POR-15 shouldn't be used on surfaces that will be painted base coat clear coat. I've used POR -15 on the floor pans (top and bottom) and followed their directions to the letter in regards to getting other paint to stick and also used their tie coat. It seems to be working but it's a lot of effort. If you can treat the bare metal with some kind of metal prep or piclex (I can't recall if that's spelled right) and then hit it with epoxy primer, it usually doesn't rust.

I've used another anti rust coating called Master Series on the surface areas of a '65 Mustang. So far it's not rusting (1 year) and it's okay to paint base coat/clear coat over it.

Dean T

[PureVenom]

I agree, POR-15 shouldn't be used on surfaces that will be painted base coat clear coat. I've used POR -15 on the floor pans (top and bottom) and followed their directions to the letter in regards to getting other paint to stick and also used their tie coat. It seems to be working but it's a lot of effort. If you can treat the bare metal with some kind of metal prep or piclex (I can't recall if that's spelled right) and then hit it with epoxy primer, it usually doesn't rust.

I've used another anti rust coating called Master Series on the surface areas of a '65 Mustang. So far it's not rusting (1 year) and it's okay to paint base coat/clear coat over it.

Dean T


That looks like the stuff I'm after. I think what I will do is take what I am working on down to bare metal, seal it with this stuff, do any welding that is needed, re-seal if needed, then prime that area. I'm going to go panel by panel and seal as I go starting with the engine bay.

Also, for those searching later, here is a link to the stuff http://www.picklex20.com/index.html

[sectonone85]

Pro-15 is for under coating the fram. What i do is sand to bare metal and prime with self etching primer. then you can hit it with a filler primer and it should be good. Then all you will have to do is wet sand and paint.

[irvin]

check their website . i just read somewhere they just brought out
a tie coat so you can paint over it and have adhesion. might
have been in hemmings.--irv

[kingstang]

I agree, POR-15 shouldn't be used on surfaces that will be painted base coat clear coat. I've used POR -15 on the floor pans (top and bottom) and followed their directions to the letter in regards to getting other paint to stick and also used their tie coat. It seems to be working but it's a lot of effort. If you can treat the bare metal with some kind of metal prep or piclex (I can't recall if that's spelled right) and then hit it with epoxy primer, it usually doesn't rust.

I've used another anti rust coating called Master Series on the surface areas of a '65 Mustang. So far it's not rusting (1 year) and it's okay to paint base coat/clear coat over it.

Dean T

That Master Series is probaly the best stuff out their!!!!!!!!!!!!1

[Dean_T]

That Master Series is probaly the best stuff out their!!!!!!!!!!!!1

I like it. I've tried POR-15, Zero Rust, and Eastwoods Encapsulator. I've found Master Series the easiest to work with and most resistant to rust. Zero Rust is good but it's UV sensitive and takes a couple of weeks to fully cure. Shouldn't be used as a primer for base coat/clear coat. Zero rust comes in an aerosol can too. Encapsulator is useless. I've treated the ceiling of my '65 Mustang twice with the stuff and rust busted right through it both times. Two coats of Master Series and no rust has returned for over a year and a half.

Eastwood used to import Corroless. Great stuff. Highly toxic but actually converts rust and smothers it. When used according to their instructions, never had rust busting through. Can't seem to find it anymore.

Poop.

Dean T

[gdniel]

I used POR-15 around my sunroof, painted over it with no issues, still looked good when I sold the car. I used the gray, it was thin enough to sand ,prep and paint.

[mudgepondexpress]

I have painted of POR15 with normal results. Didn't act any different than any other primber. My BIL painted a whole CJ7 tub with the stuff and 10+ years later is still looks great (and he uses the rig). Sanding the POR15 is the toughest. Put it on in thin layers.

Kenny