air bypass valve

[V6DR]

i checked the eec codes today and came up with code 96 air bypass not working. i pulled the small dia hose off the valve and revved the engine but noticed nothing different. how do i check if its bad? is there anything else i should be looking at?

[V6DR]

ttt

[slickshift]

96 = Thermactor Air Bypass Circut only in the KOER mode
In KOEO and CM it means Fuel Pump Circut

If that's your KOER code it refers to the circut, not (necessarily) the valve

Not sure which hose you pulled, was it a vacuum hose to the valve?

The bypass circut and the diverter circut are two different circuts

[V6DR]

i pulled the small dia hose on the top of the valve. i dont think its switching to send the air upstream to the manifold.

[FoxChassis]

You have a TAB solenoid and a TAB valve. You removed the vacuum signal from the TAB valve. That signal comes from the TAB solenoid. The solenoid is likely where you should be focusing your efforts.

[slickshift]

You also have a TAD solenoid and a TAD valve
...they are easy to mix up

[V6DR]

how do i test the solenoid? the connector has no corrosion on it.

[slickshift]

Sorry, I know of know way to test it
Other than replace it with a known good one

I have a test for the valve and pump and all, but not for the solenoid itself
It hasn't been an issue over the years with our smog tests ha ha*
I used to just ignore it and make sure the engine was running clean

I'd hate to replace something that I couldn't test, but if the valve and pump are OK, the wiring is OK, and your getting the code, I'd think (just an opinion here) that you could safely say it's time to replace the solenoid
What do you think?

I have a personal reason for asking, as I pulled the codes on this GT before I took it off the road
Some of them are Thermactor control related, and even "Thermactor system inoperative"
I’m sure I’ll want to test all the little pieces as I try and fix the system after the exhaust goes in





(*For any non- CT residents reading this: CT hasn't had a functional emissions program for years. The emissions testing cos. have all been so rife with graft and corruption they get canned after a month or two. When the state ran it, years ago, you could ignore such little things as smog pumps as long as you passed the sniffer. I routinely passed with flying colors with well tuned engines but running off-road pipes. Of course that state-run testing program was dismantled because of graft and corruption. The latest new testing program has had it starts and stops but so far seems to be operational)

[FoxChassis]

To test the circuit you need a hand-held vacuum pump and a VOM (volt/Ohm meter)

Apply 15 in-Hg. (51kPa) to the solenoid and observe the gauge. Gauge reading should hold. If not, replace the solenoid.

Disconnect the solenoid connector. With the key on but the engine off (KOEO) the W/R (white w/ red stripe) wire should read +10.5 volts or greater. If not, check wiring for continuity or corrosion.

Solenoid resistance at solenoid terminals should be 51-108 Ohms. If not, replace the solenoid.

[slickshift]

Whoa...Thanks Fox that's awsome
Got the VOM but my Mity-Vac needs a rebuild kit
I'm having trouble finding them so I've been putting off fixing it
Can't wait to try this though
Thanks again!

[V6DR]

well the solenoid is getting 10.6 volts koeo,and the resistance is 54 ohms.

[FoxChassis]

Well, two of the three tests are done and check OK.....

[slickshift]

You wanna borrow my hand held vacuum pump?
It might need some new O-rings, but they're easy to find heh heh











Seriously, I may be up to Bristol again this week (weather looks to be crappy though)
If you want to borrow it you can, I'll drop it off
That is if I find a rebuild kit before then
:)