Ultimate 1G to 3G conversion guide.

[Zap's 85 GT]

First off I'll start with showing you the instructions that come with the PA Performance 462802C kit that converts 1G to 3G style alternators, also whilw retaining the stock wiring. This kit is engineered for all Ford vehicles with an external voltage regulator.

http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=3434
http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=3435

Next I started my comversion by using an alternator from a 1999 Ford Taurus I pilled from the Junk Yard for $10. It tested good a t the local Auto Zone so things were looking pretty good. In order to use this alternator in a Mustang application I needed to "clock" the rear of the alternator housing so that the wires would come off the back in the correct direction towards the battery. This was not 100% necessary but I wanted things to flow smoothly. This only took about five minutes and was as easy as removing the three 5/16" housing bolts and spinning the case, then reinstalling the screws.

In order to make this a 100% bolt on alternator I decided to install a 3/8-16 helicoil into the upper mounting hole. This allowed me to use the stock mounting bolt and forgoes the need to get a longer bolt and install a nut in order to secure the alternator. These pics show how I went about it.

http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=3438
http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=3451
http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=3439
http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=3440
http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=3441

This is the usual bracket modification that is necessarry to clear the larger housing of the 3G alternator.

http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=3442

Now we get into the real goodies. The heart of the PA Performance conversion kit is this new replacement voltage regulator. Straight away I knew it was a modified piece because the housing is held together with pop-rivits. Out came with the drill and off came the cover. I was expecting to see some high-speed modifications to the internal circutry but instead all there was was three components. Two IN4007 diodes and a resistor that measured 470ohms. They were covered with some heat shrink so I removed that in order to take better pictures. I then replaced the heat shrink and took another pucture to show you what it looks like when the cover is removed minus the writing and clear tape that I installed behind the components.

http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=3443
http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=3444

The wiring went as per the instructions and was uneventful. I found this heavy duty alternator pigtail from a 1996 Mustang in the junk yard. Its a bolt in wiring harness in this aplication and since it has the fuse link built in I didnt need to run a spare fuse assy that the instructions reccomend.

http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=3445

The installed alternator.

http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=3446

Voltage with all acessories on with the 1G. Tested at 650 rpm's using underdrive pullies. headlights on, fog lights on, vent blower on high. (used for testing purposes on both alternators)
http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=3447

Voltage with all accessories on with the 3G.
http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=3449

I first installed the 3g using the "stand alone" wiring method.
http://www.bcbroncos.com/3ginstall.pdf
Running the car like this the battery was getting the better charge voltage that is in the second picture. But the amp gauge never showed a charge. The amp gauge would only display a discharge proportionate to the operating electrical systems, even though the battery was getting full charge. I kind of expected this but I figured I needed to wait for the PA kit to rectify this problem.

Well... today the kit came and I tore into the regulator as you can tell in the above pics. Following the instructions I installed all the new hardware and the final bit was described in NOTE 3 on the 2nd page of the instructions. After hooking all of it up, all it did was render the Amperage gauge useless. Never deviating from the "0"(straight up and down) position no matter what you operated or turned on. I'm thinking that this is the intended purpose since this kit can also be installed in cars that have no AMP gauge and only the idiot light, making the light operate as it should. This was very disapointing to me and I noticed that in the instructions (the same NOTE 3 paragraph) PA explains that the AMP gauge is inaccurate. I think more like inoperable. Then they reccomend replacing the AMP gauge with a Voltage gauge, basically since the AMP gauge is useless now.

I think this kit does whats its advertised to do but one thing it does not do is allow the AMP gauge to operate as it did before.

I hope this helps some people out. Any more questions I'd be happy to answer.

Sorry to admin in using up some space in the For Sale section to host some of these pics. I cleaned out my personal album and put the rest of them in there.

[Zap's 85 GT]

Still working on this. give me a bit to finish. I hit the post button instead of the preview one. Grr.

[FoxChassis]

Since you're still working on it, DO NOT reconnect the factory "larger" black wire (B+) to the rear of the 3G alternator as those instructions suggest. Instead, definately run a 4AWG cable from the lug on the 3G to the hot side of the starter relay. That is all.

Good show!

[Zap's 85 GT]

Since you're still working on it, DO NOT reconnect the factory "larger" black wire (B+) to the rear of the 3G alternator as those instructions suggest. Instead, definately run a 4AWG cable from the lug on the 3G to the hot side of the starter relay.

I installed them both. The original wire is needed as per the instructions to make the AMP gauge inoperable. LOL!

[FoxChassis]

I repeat: DO NOT re-install that wire. You're asking for an electrical fire if you do and the fused 4AWG cable breaks.

[Zephyr 351C]

the problem with the fuse link is that if it pops, its not easy to replace on the side of the highway in the rain as a fuse.

I did the swap on mine about two years ago I guess, I used a 200 amp ANL fuse from best buy(?), have two spares as well. Havent used them. The fuse holder tucks in nicely in the front subframe rail.

[PvtJoker]

Zap, will those part numbers be the same at radio shack or will I have to find out a different way?

[Zap's 85 GT]

I've never seen a fuse link just "pop". THey are ment to pop when the car gets into an accident and the electrical wires are crushed/shorted so a fire doesnt ensue. This is its intended application so I see no need to overengineer it.

As far as the part numbers go they should be pretty universal. Radio shack doesnt use any special numbering methods. Any electrical supply store should be able to get it if they do not have them in stock. As far as Radio Shack having them in stock, I have no idea. I guess you'd need to go there and see.

[FoxChassis]

I've never seen a fuse link just "pop". THey are ment to pop when the car gets into an accident and the electrical wires are crushed/shorted so a fire doesnt ensue. This is its intended application so I see no need to overengineer it.
Then I would like to show you my alternator and the power/charge wire for it, running from the starter relay to beneath the battery tray, along with all of the wiring beneath the battery tray that surrounded that wire. The alternator shorted out and the fuse link DID NOT "pop". Then an electrical fire started and melted the insulation on both ends of that wire and the insulation of every wire in the bunch beneath the battery tray.

[Zap's 85 GT]

Do you have an EFI car. I have no relay or wiring under my battery tray. Are you referring the starter selonoid as the relay? My wire is only about 16" long. Straight from the alternator output to the battery side connection of the starter selonoid.

I understand your emphasis about the wiring alternative and its not my intention to debunk your experience. But if I elect not to install the original 12v wire to the battery, then that would defeat the purpose of this particular kit because the AMP gauge will always register a discharge without it.

I do agree that there is a fundamental flaw with this kit and its application. The installer of this kit needs to weigh the positives and negatives for themselves and decide if they want it, or decide to go the safer/more accurate route of a single heavy gauge battery wire and a voltage gauge instead of the factory AMP gauge.

[FoxChassis]

Yes, that electrical fire happened in my '86 GT.

Bottom line is: DO NOT depend on fuse links. I learned that the hard way.