headgasket install????

[Lookn4theend]

ok i got my parts and im ready to do the install. ive only help install a head gasket be4 not done by myself. my question is what are some of the tips and tricks that everyone knows. the ones from people who have done this a few times. anything helps.
thnx russel

[AaronATX]

Not a whole lot to it. Rip it all to Pieces and put it back together.

A few things tho....

If you've never torn an engine down that far I highly suggest you label all the bolts/fastners and keep them in separate containers.

You shouldnt have to discharge the a/c system. Just hang the compressor and line out of the way.

Take the heads to a machine shop and have the checked to make sure they arent warped. Its extremely cheap. And if the heads are really old, a valve job is a good idea and not that expensive either.

Also, while the heads are off, its a good idea to change the valve stem seals if they are factory, and more than 30k old. DONT USE FORD FACTORY REPLACEMENT VALVESTEM SEALS. They are utter garbage. felpro or a similar style are much more durable.

Its essential that the block and the head surface are extremely clean when you put the head gasket on....and by the way pay attention and make sure you put the right headgasket on the right side....or you arent going to be that happy about having to tear it all down again.


Do not reuse the factory head bolts. Buy new ones. If its going to be a high performance motor I suggest ARP head studs.

Thats all I can think of at the moment.....

[BetterDays]

If you've never torn an engine down that far I highly suggest you label all the bolts/fastners and keep them in separate containers.
GREAT ADVICE HERE - Sandwich bags work well.

Take the heads to a machine shop and have the checked to make sure they arent warped. Its extremely cheap. And if the heads are really old, a valve job is a good idea and not that expensive either.

Also, while the heads are off, its a good idea to change the valve stem seals if they are factory, and more than 30k old. DONT USE FORD FACTORY REPLACEMENT VALVESTEM SEALS. They are utter garbage. felpro or a similar style are much more durable.

Its essential that the block and the head surface are extremely clean when you put the head gasket on....and by the way pay attention and make sure you put the right headgasket on the right side....or you arent going to be that happy about having to tear it all down again.
Cleaned heads make the job a lot easier... Paying attention is key!


Do not reuse the factory head bolts. Buy new ones. If its going to be a high performance motor I suggest ARP head studs.

Torque wrench is needed...
Be sure to torque down to twenty #'s less than recommended on the first pass.
reset the torque wrench to the proper number's and repeat sequence..

Set the torque wrench to Zero between passes.

Take a 5-10 min break

Repeat sequence with the correct torque setting.. Better to double check now than redo later...

After motor is run, some people like to recheck the torque again.

Good luck, take your time, and ask questions if needed....

[Puter]

Borrow a click-type torque wrench that is close to accurate. Torque values are relative to the lubricant used. In other words, if you do buy ARP bolts, they specify one torque value when the bolts are lubricated withl 30W oil and another value when you use their lubricant. You may also read up on ARP's website on how to properly torque fasteners. Some folks confuse the three-step torque sequence with the "torque once to value, back-off torque a second time, back-off and torque a third" to properly stretch a bolt. Do use thread (pipe) sealer on the lower head bolts. With the intake, I usually end up going through the sequence ~10 times before the wrench quits moving bolts.

Remember to keep your pushrods and valve train in sequence. What came out of #1 goes back into #1. Put your engine at TDC before you start. Mark the distributor base to the block. Also mark the rotor to cap base before pulling, then after pulling (it moves).

If you can, siphon the block of coolant when the heads are off. I use an old anti-freeze tester. Make sure everything is very clean when you start to go back together. Put in just some cheap 30W when you first go back together. After bringing it up to operating temp and timing the engine and such, drain and put in good stuff (same with filter).

Use masking tape and a marker to match connections. In other words, when I pull off a vacuum line, I mark two pieces of tape with #1 (or #2, or whatever) and put the pieces on the line and where the line goes. Same with electrical or whatever.

Enjoy.

[five-o-joe]

Take this challenge. Clean the head surfaces and block surfaces the best you can with brake cleaner and rags. After you have given it your best shot, then use masking tape strips and completely cover the block and head mating surfaces with strips of the masking tape. Rub over the surfaces and press the tape on. Then peel the tape off and post back up here just how much grease and grime the tape pulled off even after you cleaned the surface with brake cleaner. You will be amazed when you see a perfect outline of the head and block on your tape.

[Lookn4theend]

well this head gasket will only be on for about a month or two. my performance motor will be done by then. this is jsut cause i need it to drive for now.