1982 Capri 2.3L RS Turbo.

[THE-RAGE]

hello everyone, I recently picked up an 82 capri rs turbo. and definatly enjoy driving it, however when it comes to specs about this particular car i have been unable to find any info.

I purchased the car in its non running form (all it needed was a tune up and fresh gas).. LOL.. theres some info that would help greatly in getting it running better then it is.

timing? what is factory? how much can i raise it to? Heh...
spark plug gap.. I think i have it set to approx .034 but i dont remember
factory boost level? its at 4.5 lbs boost right now under full throttle.

the motor was rebuilt approx 60 000km ago... and has 115k on the body.

is there anything i should be looking out for? tips hints? etc?...

thanks

matt.

[THE-RAGE]

some pics... everyone likes pics... keep in mind build date was august 81, (for the 82 model year)./.. original paint...
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/6717/smp1010010.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/6717/smp1010012.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/6717/smp1010027.jpg
underbody not bad for a 22 yr old car, $500 purchase :D
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/6717/smp1010046.jpg
ghetto boost gauge... was just temporary to see how much she was puttin out.
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/6717/smp1010061.jpg

[FoxChassis]

This is making me want a Capri....

[CapriGT]

This is making me want a Capri....

Me too

[white1983GT]

yep, that's a good looking car, i'd love to have one like it.

[madmike8]

Nice Car...


And Yes.. We Love Pics!

[THE-RAGE]

thanks :)

ive got some more as well... heh

http://www.mustangmods.com/data/6717/smp1010014.jpg
the front splitter is off the car right now, either looking for a new one or leave it off for the time being, also looking for a new grill.. since this ones broken.. (i have the broken peice in the car so I may glue it back on temporariliy)
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/6717/smp1010019.jpg

http://www.mustangmods.com/data/6717/smp1010030.jpg


and her first full tank of ultra 94. the guy behind the counter thought i was nuts for taking the pic. :)
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/6717/smp1010001.jpg

[madmike8]

the guy behind the counter thought i was nuts for taking the pic.

It's a FourEye thing... You have to drive one to understand it... :D

[talorp85gt]

I hate you :D


JK, I would love to have one. The first fox I drove was a 79 capri rs turbo. Black with green striping. Fell in love with the fox from that day on

[mfpmax]

I still want that air dam... :twisted:

[RACECAP97]

Love the outside, hate the inside. I am not a fan of the red interiors. :D

[Anlushac11]

timing? what is factory? how much can i raise it to?

Timing is stock 2.3L but the turbo 2.3L has a boost activated timing retard feature. It is the bundle of hoses on the drivers ide strut tower. Most of the time it doesnt work all that well. I would recommend a aftermarket one like MSD has.


spark plug gap.. I think i have it set to approx .034 but i dont remember

2.3L is still stock 0.34"

factory boost level? its at 4.5 lbs boost right now under full throttle.

Boost should be 7lbs from factory. If yours is pulling 4.5lbs boost then that is low.

is there anything i should be looking out for? tips hints? etc?...

Increase primary carb jets by one or two sizes and increase secondary carb jets by three or four sizes.

On the vacuum line from the air pump there is a delay valve. Switch it for the dark green version from a Lincoln. That helps eliminate low end bogging.

The carb turbo responds to all the same mods the efi turbos respond to except you cant run an intercooler. For the carb turbo your charge clloing wil have to come from water injection. Alot of people use non detergent windshield washer solution as it is water-methanol mix.

One of the guys on Stangnet just got a mandrel bent 3" crossunderpipe made and he said it virtually eliminated turbo lag. Now if someone were to get that jet-hot coated to retain heat that would further reduce turbo lag.

A 3" downpipe off the exhaust side and a 3" single outlet exhaust would further boost power. A single exhaust will make better power than the dual outlet exhaust.

And a turbo cam and ported head would further boost power.

WARNING: Ford routed the fuel inlet to the carb right over the distributor and turbo Capri's and Mustangs have been lost to fires. Reroute the gas line away from the distributor or make it a leakproof line like braided stainless steel.

Also if you go with a big exhaust great if not make sure the muffler and converter are not clogged or they will build up LOTS of heat.

[THE-RAGE]

thanks for the info!! i'll look into the boost thing soon heh.. i was wondering how much i could bump it to safely and looks like 7lbs is a good place to start.

[Anlushac11]

8)

Look for info starting on this website about the McLaren M80 and M81 Mustangs.

They were limited edition carb turbo 2.3L Mustangs that were limited edition performance tuner cars similar to the Mustang SVO or Saleen Mustangs.

The M80 and M81 Mustangs had the boost raised to 11 lbs boost, a high flow exhaust, BBK wheels, Firestone HPR radials, Hipo springs and struts and shocks, and special body panels and paint job.

They were rated at 175hp, same as a 84 1/2 Mustang SVO and are extremely rare. Performance was handling were rated very good and it was stated that this is how the carb turbo Mustangs should have come this way from the factory.

On the vacuum cannister that controls the wastegate IIRC their is a set screw inside the port where the hose hooks up that can be turned to adjust the boost.

BUT HEED THE WARNING: If you turn the setscrew out too far it will pop out and you cant get it back in and then you are royally screwed. Only way to fix it would be to take apart the vacuum cannister and I dont know of anyone who has successfuly done that.

I have also heard of people changing the length of the boost vacuum cannister control arm.

You would be better off buying a Gillis bleed valve .

[Evil86lx]

8)

Look for info starting on this website about the McLaren M80 and M81 Mustangs.

They were limited edition carb turbo 2.3L Mustangs that were limited edition performance tuner cars similar to the Mustang SVO or Saleen Mustangs.

The M80 and M81 Mustangs had the boost raised to 11 lbs boost, a high flow exhaust, BBK wheels, Firestone HPR radials, Hipo springs and struts and shocks, and special body panels and paint job.

They were rated at 175hp, same as a 84 1/2 Mustang SVO and are extremely rare. Performance was handling were rated very good and it was stated that this is how the carb turbo Mustangs should have come this way from the factory.

On the vacuum cannister that controls the wastegate IIRC their is a set screw inside the port where the hose hooks up that can be turned to adjust the boost.

BUT HEED THE WARNING: If you turn the setscrew out too far it will pop out and you cant get it back in and then you are royally screwed. Only way to fix it would be to take apart the vacuum cannister and I dont know of anyone who has successfuly done that.

I have also heard of people changing the length of the boost vacuum cannister control arm.

You would be better off buying a Gillis bleed valve .


This guy is the MAN when it comes to carbed 2.3 turbo stuff.. Good info..

kyle

[Scott Toogood]

"Timing is stock 2.3L but the turbo 2.3L has a boost activated timing retard feature. It is the bundle of hoses on the drivers ide strut tower. Most of the time it doesnt work all that well. I would recommend a aftermarket one like MSD has."

Thanks for that info, Anulshack! I've been wondering what the hell that thing was ever since I picked up my 84 RS! I figured it couldn't be the BCS, yet it definitely has hoses for pressure activation of something!
Can I remove the whole bundle? Do I need to short some wires first? I will run an MSD 6AL shortly.
Thanks again!

[Anlushac11]

8)

Well honestly I have had 3 carb turbo cars and none of the boost retard systems worked but I never messed with them much either.

The boost retard actuator is hooked by a hose to a pressure switch on the intake. If you disconnect the boost actuator you just wont have any ignition retard when the boost kicks in. Not a problem if you have installed a V8 or removed the turbo.

This is from my Haynes manula to test that the boost sensor is working.

1) Make sure ignition timing is set properly

2) Disconnect the spark sensing module from the pressure switch

3) Remove the pressure supply line to the to the ignition timing pressure switch and plug the line. Connect a T-adapter so a external pressure source may be connected.

4) Remove the vacuum advance from the distributor and plug the line

5) Install a hand held tachometer according to the manufacturers directions, have a assistant start the engine and accelerate to 1300-1400rpm.

6) Apply pressure at the adapter. If the engine performs as outlined disconnect all apparatus and reconnect all fittings.

7) If the tests do not give the specified results substitute but do not install a new pressure switch assembly and perform the test above. If the RPM decreases as specified reconnect the original switch and test again.If a decrease in RPM is noted then assume the first test was erroneous and reconnect all fittings.

If the decrease in RPM does not occur, replace the original switch with a new one. If installation and testing of the new switch does not occur as expected, continue with the steps below.

Substitute but do not install a new dual mode ignition module and retest as above. If the RPM decreases as specified reconnect the original module and verify its malfunction by retesting, then replace the module. Remove all test equipment and reconnect all fittings.

SPARK RETARD TEST PRESSURE:

0 to 0.49PSI RPM decrease should be none

0.5 to 1.0PSI RPM decrease should be greater than 75rpm.

1.0 to 3.74PSI there should be no change in rpm.

3.75 to 4.25PSI RPM decrease should be 100rpm more.

Release pressure to 0 RPM should return to 1300-1400rpm.


I was gonna run a MSD box that has the boost sensor built in but its about $500. 8O

[Scott Toogood]

Interesting stuff! Thanks very much. Because I don't have a vacuum advance on my dist. I think I'll skip the test (that and anything that reduces timing without my consent and control pisses me off). I'll probably just plug the lines and rip it out.
Also, Is the BCS mounted directly below the boost/timing retard on the passenger side strut tower? It's a real snake-pit of wires and hoses there and I can't find any info in my Haynes wiring diagram.

Thanks for the help!