where to get shocks?

[OonDeanisS]

i want to get KYB AGX shocks and struts for my 86, but i was told the struts for an 87-93 mustang wont fit. Where can i find struts that will fit? i am lowering the car like 2.5 with Eibach Road Race springs

[v8only]

IMO, if you are going to go through the trouble to lower it and put shocks on, you should put on a set of 87-93 brakes/spindles. The cost is fairly low, the braking improvement is dramatic, and the struts you want will then bolt up just fine.

[telco]

The difference in the struts is that where they bolt to the spindle in the post 87 cars is thinner. The aftermarket stock replacements (monroe etc..) are made for a pre 87 and give you spacers for the post 87.

I agree with V8 though. I just did this upgrade to my 83 and what a difference. I had problems with the brake lines though and had to fab a bracket cause the calipers, flex lines, and frame brackets are way different. Here's a link showing the differences between an 83 and 88 brake line bracket. The pic says this is the right side but actually it's the left.
http://members.cox.net/bc.peters/bracket_comparison.jpg
Here's the mod. This is just temporary until my mig welder shows up later this month.
http://members.cox.net/bc.peters/Bracket_mod.jpg

[OonDeanisS]

so my spindle is thinner and therefor wont fit the KYBs? that sucks.. How much would it cost to do the brake conversion? what would i need to replace?

[v8only]

I'm pretty sure, as I think was mentioned you can adapt them.

However, upgrading the brakes anyhow is simple and cheap. All you have to do is find the spindles from an 87-93 car, with the rotors/calipers. It can cost you next to nothing to a couple hundred depending on how resourceful you are.

[telco]

No actually your spindle is thicker and depending on how the new shocks are made they may not work until you UPGRADE YOUR FRONT END.

Can ya tell what we want you to do? :roll:

I bought spindles, rotors (sometimes called hubs) calipers and brake lines, including the frame bracket (important) for 100.00 per side at a local yard. I believe Phoenix is over priced so you can probably do better.
I bought a new ford motor sport lower control arms for 145.00 shipped
I bought stock 03 shocks and struts for 45.00 shipped (awsome deal)
I replaced the pads and bearings and put in 1" FMS lowering springs for 85.00 (E-bay).

So for 500.00 I rebuilt the whole front end with bigger brakes. :twisted: Add another 145.00 for the tubular rear control arms and about 3 days of work and I've got a brand new suspension. This thing rides like new.

You are dropping it allot more and it's going to be cool but harsh and hard to handle so be careful. ;) You will need to fix the bump steer problem and get caster camber plates. I would highly recommend you read Mustang Performance Hanbook 2 by Mathis before you start any work.

I'm long winded but a post can't help you with indepth core knowledge like this book.

[OonDeanisS]

do i NEED new LCAs and bearings?

[telco]

Only you can determine that but you need to have an understanding of what these components do to evaluate what you want to change.

The FMS control arms are better, they have stiffer bushings and the improved (post 87 I think) ball joints. These are no easy to install but you are changing the springs anyway so it makes sense to do it then.

dude I'm tellin ya, not matter what you've been told use a spring compressor on the front springs. I took them out with out one and it was a bit scarry. If you've not done this type of work before you could seriuosly hurt yourself. Getting the springs back in will probably be easier for you since they are quite a bit shorter, but here too there is MUCH potential for injury.

Get a book and start reading. Like carpenters say "Measure twice, cut once". You really need to understand the system before you decide on the changes. The whole car is a system that needs to balance for your application.

[Evil86lx]

I would also recomend SVO 73mm caliper's and a SVO master cyl.

kyle

[v8only]

I think that we could be information overloading him. I saw his post on stangnet too, and looks like he is on a very tight budget, almost a non existant budget (like myself)

I know telco said you can't modify it, but I could have sworn I remember reading on how to modify the struts or the spindles on the 86's to accept the 87+ struts. Anyone else know anything on this??

The sad truth though, is if he doesn't have the $ to complete this the right way, he may not be ready for this at all yet. This is how a spring job turns into a complete suspension AND brake makeover!!

[telco]

Yeah I talk too much allot of times :lol:

I think aftermarket struts will normally fit cause they are built for a 79-86 and give you spacers for the 87-93' but I don't know about Konis.

I guess my main point was learn about what you got and then formulate a plan. You then can lay your plan out on a board like this for comment. I don't think boards can teach much without a basic understanding.

OonDeanisS
I personally would not use those springs. They are faddy and more for the Imports than a Mustang. Putting in the springs with nothing else will hurt more than help and the ride will suck. If you want that look then save your money and do it all at one time. To drop it 2" you will absloutely have to have caster/camber plates and something to help bump steer. Without that the car will just be unsafe.

Well there I go again talking and talking...........

[OonDeanisS]

dont worry about info overloading... im smart. But i am on a VERY tight budget, and as guessed it is nonexistant. I have enough to buy the KYB AGXs, but thats it. I can save and wait until i get enough to get the brakes though, as long as they arent too expensive. I already have the springs, and i chose them because my brother has them in his mustang and they are great, even without a bumpsteer kit or CC plates.

I know to use a spring compressor, I was going to do the install in Auto at school, because they have one, but i just found out that the springs dont go around the strut like most cars, and i dont think i could get the spring up onto the wall before taking it out of the car, so maybe we have a portable one. Anyone have a pic of a spring compressor?

Do SVO 73mm calipers use different pads? if i got those and the master cylinder, and new rotors, all i would need is the newer spindles and brake lines?

OK sorry for the long post, it happens. I think thats it for right now.

[telco]

I'm amazed your brother doesn't need cc plates or have problems with bump steer. Have you driven his car. I only lower mine 1" in the front and my adjustment is maxed out with the stock plates (yes you can adjust both caster and camber on an 83).

The SVO brakes do use different pads but they also may require a different master cylinder. If you convert the rears to disk you have to change the master and the proportioning valve as well as mod the lines.

The springs set in pockets in the control arm and the body so this makes them a pain compared to coil over struts. You can get them out with out a spring compressor but it's dodgy and you might have to loosen the control arm bolts. The control arm bushings are fused to the arm and the collar that the bolt passes through. This collar is bound by the K-member when the bolts are torqued so the control arm won’t drop all the way to down when take the strut loose thus keeping some load on the spring. Since I was replacing my control arms I loosened these bolts, swung the arm 90 degrees to the K-member and poped out the spring. I had to compress the springs to 12” to get them back in so if your spring free length is close to that (stock was 14 I believe) then you may not need one.

I don't have a picture of the spring compressor but they are a PITA to work with until you get the hang of it.

Here is a pic of the control arm fully lowered before I put the spring in http://members.cox.net/bc.peters/arm_and_strut_only.jpg
Here is with the springs installed http://members.cox.net/bc.peters/assembly_minus_brakes_and_hub.JPG
Here is one of the whole assembly with all the "new" parts (spindles and brakes from an 88 ). http://members.cox.net/bc.peters/full_assembly.JPG

If you have to loosen the control arm bolts, you'll need a lift that puts the suspension at ride height to tighten them back. They get torqued down to 140 ft/lbs I believe and I could not get the car high enough to get the torque wrench on them. The alignment shop tightened them for me. You have to do this at ride height so you don't lock the bushings in at the wrong place an preload the suspension.

Get the book I suggested amazon.com has it and it will tell you just about everything you want to know about moding the suspension.

[OonDeanisS]

i dont want to change the rears to disks, well i want to but i wont.

i also do not want to take this stuff apart without a spring compressor, its too risky, so i shouldnt have to unbolt the control arms should i?

[OonDeanisS]

and yes i have driven his car

[telco]

Nope and it makes it easier to get the springs back in if you use the compressor to take them out. You get to see how the thing works putting it on the old spring which helps you put it on the new spring correctly.

It's kind of hard to explain but the compressor fits inside the spring. The top piece has a bar with threads in the center of it and two hooks that bolt to it. I had to assemble this in the spring.

You have another bar, for the bottom, without threads but with the same bolt on hooks that faces the opposite way.

A jack screw goes through the bottom bar and threads into the top bar. tighten the jack screw (I used an impact) to compress the spring.

The jack screw extends up past the spring, as you tighten it down, and through a hole in the frame. This is the tricky part getting the jack screw up through that hole. You don't have to compress them THAT much so don't try and hook the springs too far up. Make sure you have about 3" of spread between the bars and sock it down. This should compress them enough to get them out but you may have to push down on the control arm a little once you it comes down off the jack.

That brings up a good point. Put the compressor on before taking off the strut. Put a floor jack under the control arm (the bottom of the spring perch is a great place) once the compressor is on and tight, take out the strut bolts and SLOWLY lower the control arm. It is highly recommended you pur a chain across the spring just in case someting goes screwy.

So your brothers car is lowered 2", does not have cc plates or anything for bump steer (there are a couple of options), and it drives fine, doesn't wear the tires on the inside, and does not veer when you hit a bump. I am really surprised. Everything I've read and been told is contrary.

[OonDeanisS]

wow i was so tired last night i didnt even notice there was a second page. Thanks for the info. Yes all thats true about his car, it amazes me too, but thats how it is so i cant argue with it. He drove with that setup for 7 months with absolutely no problems.

i think i am going to just order the KYBs and if they fit thats great and if they dont ill replace the brakes. Hopefully they are made for an 86 and come with spacers.

[PNY XPRS]

Pop into Auto Zone and ask if they have a spring compressor for rent/loan.

basically it's 2 3-finger "claws" with a bolt through the middle. You put it in the middle of the spring and tighten it down. Once you get it in place, you loosen it up.

[telco]

I guess it's hard to argue with a working set up. Just proves that the best experience is gained by doing but I think he's lucky.

I read a post here http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=7371. According to Mike Croke (last entry) KYBs came with the spacers so you should be good with your current set up and be able to re-use these if you update it. Doing this on a limited budget sucks but if you plan it right you can upgrade slowly and still be able to use the car. That's important cause if you tear it down and don't drive it for months you run the danger of never driving it again.

I have the financial ability (although my with would kick my a$$) to do 90% of the mods I want to do right now. The main reason I'm taking my time and doing it slowly is so I can drive the car regularly. I try to take it out at least once a week so that limits how much I can do at one time. It's slower and it winds up costing a bit more but it ensures I don't tired of working on a car I can't drive.

[Musti81]

Sorry to bring this old post up, but its in my alley right now.....I got spindles/rotors/calipers off a 90 GT. My 81 Ghia has a front suspension off a 82 GT, with the brake system of a I6 which it originally came with. Am I gonna need to fabricate a new brake line bracket too? I have a Master Cylinder w/ porpotional valve off that same '90 GT. Should i buy a new booster for a '90 V8 as well and hook it all up? Would i also buy struts for a '90 GT? :?

[telco]

Here is the difference between an 83 and 88. I would think your brackets would be the same.
http://members.cox.net/bc.peters/Copy%20(2)%20of%20bracket_comparison.jpg
I had to mod the bracket like this
http://members.cox.net/bc.peters/Bracket_mod_small.jpg
but this puts line in a bind. what really needs to be done is the bracket welded 180 degrees out from how it is shown bolted.

Look at the calipers to see what size the bores are. If they are the same as the 82 brakes then you'll be ok with your booster and master cylinder. If the caliper is bigger you'll probably need to replace the master cylinder but I would think the booster would be ok.

I've had no problems with my brakes and I did not change the master cylinder.

The struts for a 79-93 are all the same in the aftermarket. They make them to fit the 79-85 cars and give you spacers for the 86-93 cars. FYI I've got struts from a 2003 GT on my 83 and they work just fine

[lx460]

I dont believe the hard lines will fit from your car to the new car. I did this conversion on an 86 4 cyl car. I forget which one had which( I was using a wrecked 91 LX as a parts car), but one had three lines going to master cyl, one had two. I had to upgrade my booster too because the 4 cyl. one is huge and wouldnt fit with the big block. so I used a 91 V8 booster and a master off a 8? crown vic interceptor because it fit the booster, had the correct inlet and outlet ports, and had a big piston for the 73mm calipers I put on.

[Travis T]

If you really don't want to upgrade the front brakes, Summit Racing sells KYB's for all Mustangs, and the 79-86 front struts are adjustable. I've bought some for an 87 GT cause I'm upgrading to Tbird brakes myself.

[PNY XPRS]

<-- is lazy today...


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